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Add sound to Atlas Master GP-38 DCC?

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Colorado (the flat part)
  • 607 posts
Add sound to Atlas Master GP-38 DCC?
Posted by Colorado_Mac on Sunday, February 14, 2016 6:20 PM

I have an Atlas Master #9111 GP-38.  It has the older DC/DCC decoder - runs well on DCC but I would like to have sound to match up with my other locomotives.  

Should I replace the entire decoder or just try to add sound (if that's even possible)? Either way, what are your recommendations for decoders or sound for this locomotive?  I've never really delved into the DCC guts of a locomotive, but I'm willing to give it a try with this one!

Sean

HO Scale CSX Modeler

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Sunday, February 14, 2016 6:39 PM

 One decoder that does sound and motor control is almost ALWAYS better than trying to use two different decoders.

 The hardest part of installing sound is usually finding place for the speaker. Your best bet is to check Google and see if you can find examples of installation in your loco.

 My preferred sound decoders these days are the Loksound Select series. Excellent sounds and great motor drive for smooth operation.

                     --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Jacksonville, FL
  • 913 posts
Posted by gatrhumpy on Sunday, February 14, 2016 7:52 PM

Get a brand new sound decoder like ESU LokSound.

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Ontario Canada
  • 3,574 posts
Posted by Mark R. on Sunday, February 14, 2016 10:36 PM

I too would recommend the Loksound decoder. The simplest installation would be to use a Loksound Select Direct decoder (direct replacement for the Atlas board) and have it loaded with file number 73826 which is correct for the GP38.

If you're not keen on cutting down the weights to install a speaker, Loksound also has a new cell phone speaker set which includes the speaker and parts to create a custom enclosure. You could probably install it easily in the cab area without having to do any modifications. Part number 50321 ....

Don't be fooled by the tiny size of that speaker. It honestly sounds as good as a 16mm X 35mm speaker which would require almost removing the entire rear weight to fit it in.

Mark.

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Posted by peahrens on Wednesday, February 17, 2016 4:15 PM

I don't know exactly what your GP38 looks like inside...but it may be similar to the older GP38 here where only a motor decoder was added:

 

http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Atlas/GP-38/Gp-38.htm

 

Here's a TCS WowSound install in a GP40...again, may be different than your GP38:

 

http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Atlas/GP40%20Sound/Atlas%20GP40%20_WOW121-Diesel%20and%20AK-MB1.html

 

You can see from the GP40 that they addressed the speaker room by simply removing the rear weight.  Easy, but maybe not so desireable from a traction standpoint.

 

Based on what I see, one question is how comfortable you are with soldering, or learning that.  Given what I see, I'd second the recommendation of removing the old light board, decoder and lights.  Then add a LokSound Select 6Aux decoder, on a piece of styene glued above the motor, towards the front.  That Select version is smaller (shorter) than the board replacement Direct type, only about as big as the smaller TCS board in the GP40 photos.  A oval speaker would be ok, but I would make a 0.040" styrene speaker enclosure for 2 sugarcube speakers (I like the larger 13x18mm but the smaller 11x15mm ones are also well regarded) and add the speakers above the long hood truck, shaving down the weight where needed.  A lot of metal to remove by grinding, better to have a buddy with a milling machine.  I'd change the lights, if bulbs, to LEDs w/1k resistors, 3mm, 5mm, or 0603SMDs as best fit.  The LEDs can even be added (glued) to the lens or use a lightpipe or shortened lightpipe as needed for helping space (e.g., for the speaker).  This may all sound a bit involved, but not all that tough except getting the weight size reduced.  

 

And while in there, if the truck pickup wires are not soldered (e.g., just clipped on) I'd solder those connections to prevent future looseness problems.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Colorado (the flat part)
  • 607 posts
Posted by Colorado_Mac on Thursday, February 18, 2016 11:03 PM

Thanks for the tips, guys. One reason I chose to do this loco is that it is my least-favorite, so on the off-chance I destroy it, I won't cry  too much. i guess I'll dive on in!  

Sean

HO Scale CSX Modeler

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Posted by peahrens on Friday, February 19, 2016 7:54 AM

There's another thread here last few days about supplies to gather for such a project.

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

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