On my DC-powered layout, I thought to use two Atlas selectors to control different turnouts. This is a great photo that shows how to wire one selector:
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/JIM_L_R4/Jimbasicdc_zpsad69050f.jpg
Based on the photo, would I simply run a wire between the selectors and use the two shown power packs? Would it make more sense to have the selectors right next to each other or have the 2nd selector closer to the turnouts? If the latter, I would just run a longer wire between the selectors. Thanks for your time and help. Wiring is not my strong suite!
kasskabooseOn my DC-powered layout, I thought to use two Atlas selectors to control different turnouts.
Please clarify what you are trying to do. Are you wanting to control power to the rails of two or more different track sections ("blocks") and thus be able to operate blocks separate from each other (switch the power source to each)? This would allow independent operation of 2 locos (in different blocks). If so, the Selectors can be joined together with metal jumpers (at least one could in the 60's) or if for some reason you wanted to separate them you could do that, using wire jumpers). If your power packs are in one spot, I'd think one would want all Selectors in that area, so why not just connect together? Then run the wires to the rails in each block.
If you are wanting to control (switch) the turnouts themselves, what you need and how to wire them depends on what type switch machine you will be using (e.g., solenoid activated vs. stall motor, etc).
Consider getting the Atlas track wiring book (or an equivalent), though folks here are also glad to help.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
From what I recall, you want a #56 Atlas Switch Control box. They are spring loaded so you don't burn out the switch machine.
The Selector is either or with no center off position.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
WHat are you trying to do, control power to track blocks or control turnouts? Selectors are for controlling track power. If you need more than 4 blocks you just connect another selector to the right side of the first one - they have tabs for doing so, the tabs of one just slip under the screws of the previous ones. No wires needed between Selectors.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The OP can get the book form ebay for a few dollars. Atlas track wiring book
Maybe even a local library. If the library does not have it, they can get it through a inter-library loan.
If use to do that in pre-Google days.
Selectors are not going to work for turnouts. No Atlas book will show that. Well, with two power supplies I can actually think of a way to wire it all up, at least to control a Tortoise - but again, not going to be in any wiring book and it's going to end up being more complex to explain than just using the right kind of switch as shown in the Tortoise instructions. FOr Atlas and other twin coil machines, don;t even think about it. Use the proper product - the Selector is not it.
Here's the Atlas standard items for DC wiring. These have been made from at least 1960 as I recall.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Switch-Panels-s/2765.htm
If needing to throw a solenoid operated turnout motor, the #56 Switch Control Box has a sliding push button that (when held down) provides juice to switch the turnout motor. (There's a new #57 item that I assume does the same.
http://www.atlasrr.com/Trackmisc/57switchcontrol.htm
If using a non-solenoid turnout (switch) motor such as a Tortoise that gets constant (not push button) power, a simple center-off DPDT toggle, that switches the power polarity to the motor is the norm.
The #215 Selector is used to either (if using one powerpack DC to the rails) turn isolated (with rail gaps) blocks on/off, or with two powerpacks to turn blocks off or connect each block (outside the reversing loop) to the desired block(s).
The #220 Controller is used to add reversing loop operation. With it, and downstream connected Selectors, one can switch mainline polarity so a DC train can exit a reversing loop and encounter the correct (flopped) polarity, plus the downstream Selectors can still select the desired (of two) powerpacks (or turn off) each block.
I'm not so familiar with the #210 Twin, but it contains DPDT wiring that can be used for reverse loops, wyes, turntables.
The #205 Connector is used to simply turn things on and off; e.g.., for lighting, you could use it as the (AC or DC) lighting switches for Buildings A, B, C.
kasskaboose This is a great photo that shows how to wire one selector: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/JIM_L_R4/Jimbasicdc_zpsad69050f.jpg
Yes I know, I am the one who drew it. LOL
Jim
This is what you need.
Thanks everyone for all your help. To clarify, I am trying to isolate sidings. This would allow me to couple/uncouple cars while independently running a consist on the mainline. Clearly the selector wouldn't work, which is very reassuring.
Thanks for the clearification. This statement had us confused:
kasskaboose I thought to use two Atlas selectors to control different turnouts.
It is now understood you are not trying to connect a turnout but are instead trying to isolate sidings so you can run two trains at once.
With that being said, the top diagram is what you need to follow.
kasskaboose Thanks everyone for all your help. To clarify, I am trying to isolate sidings. This would allow me to couple/uncouple cars while independently running a consist on the mainline. Clearly the selector wouldn't work, which is very reassuring.
The drawing is correct. I would however gap both rails and run the common wire to every block so there is a set of wires to each block, and tie all the commons together near the block selector. This will ensure better pickup. If the block is more than 10 feet long connect the wires in more than one spot.
You can add numerous block selectors together by connecting them with the buss (those metal prongs that line up with the input screws). Most people mount these near one of their transformers if they have stationary throttles. They mount their transformers near each other if they are going to operate both at once. They mount them farther apart if two people are going to operate so they have working room.
If you are using walk around throttles then the selectors can be centralized or located near the actual blocks. It depends on if you are going to have someone be a dispatcher (centralized) or if each conductor/engineer is responsible for his own blocks.
My general policy is that each fork of a turnout on the mainline is a new block. That will maximize the number of trains you can have on the layout. While you can only run two at a time, others can sit on sidings and in a staging yard waiting for their turn.
Also if you put your siding on the opposite side of the mainline than your industrial spur then you can leave your local train on the siding, pull cars off of either end, and not block the mainline except momentarily.
OK, if you are trying to isolate sidings - the Selector WOULD work.
On the Selector, with the switch UP, it connects the top left terminals to the output terminals above the slider in question. DOWN, it connects the lower left terminals. And it has a center position which disconnects everything.
If you have just one power pack, you connect it to the top, and if you slide a switch to the middle or bottom, power is cut off to whatever track that is feeding. If you have 2 power packs, you connect one to the top and one to the bottom, and put the switch in the middle to turn off all power to a siding. That lets you run 2 trains, on all tracks where the switch is pushed up, you control with the top power pack, on all tracks where the switch is down, you control with the bottom power pack. Any tracks with the switch in the middel get no power al all and you can leave a train standing.
If you have more than 4 tracks to control, you keep stacking Selectors together, you CAN put wires between them but you'll want to keep them near the power packs, unless you are using some sort of walkaround control. As I said, they just hook together in a horizonatal line, no wires needed.
Yes, I would like to isolate the sidings to have one train picking up/dropping off cars while another goes around the main line for DC. I have a point-to-point setup. One selector would operate one group of sidings while another would work elsewhere--the distance between the selectors is about 10 ft.
Can I connect both of them to one stationary power pack (using a long wire between them) or would they need their own power pack? If the former, I would use one selctor for a group of sidings. In the first group, (sidings 1-4) up would provide power and when flipped down it would not; the 2nd selector would do likewise for sidings 5-8. Thanks, Lee
Electrically, connecting wires between the two Selectors or just using the builtin pass through connections is the same thing. So it doesn't matter from a wiring standpoint.
I do have to ask though how you plan to operate this. It sounds liek you have one power pack and one Selector near one end, and you want to put the second Selector at the other end. That would mean stopping the train fromt he power pack, then walkign down to the other end to flip the switch on the Selector to turn off the power, then walking back to the power pack end to start up the next train.
One option might be to use the Selector as illustrated, using a second power pack, but have the second one down on the other end with the second Selector. Then when you are workign down at the far end, you could use the Selector to set those tracks to the second power pack and operate the trains from there as needed, then either switch those tracks off or set one to be operated from the first power pack for a mainline train, then go back to power pack 1 and pull that one train out of the far end and start running it - the others would remain parked in their tracks since the other switches on the far end Selector would remain off or set to power pack 2.
The wiring for this is exactly as shown in the diagrams - the wires between power packs can be any length (within reason - 50+ feet is probably not a good idea, but 10-20 feet, no problem, as long as you use decent size wire, like #18, not telephone wire.). Except for some minor details that don't matter here, a 2 foot piece of wire because you have 2 power packs sitting next to each other is no different than a 15 foot piece of wire because the second power pack is at the opposite end of the layout. Electrically it's the same, and the wires run between the exact same connection points as shown in the picture.
1. Do you want to operate (independently) 1 or 2 trains at a time? If one, suggest you put a single power pack and both selectors in one location. Why would you want to walk x' to a 2nd Selector, turn on power to one of the yard tracks, then walk x' back to the power pack to operate a train on a siding?
2. Do you want to operate two trains (in different blocks) independently / simultaneously? Then you need two power packs (or a dual one). If one operator (you), suggest to put the power packs and Selectors in the same area so you don't have to move back and forth to operate. There could be an argument to separate items if you will only operate one loco at a time.
If two operators, there may well be cases where you want to put the Selectors in special places; let's say a yard operator would have his powerpack in his yard area. In that case, maybe put a powerpack near the yard action. And in that case, several options for the Selectors.
Just think through each step you would make in turning blocks on / off, adjusting power to different locos, and you will see what good options exist. The pick yours basis informed preferences.
Post a track diagram if you like.
peahrensPost a track diagram if you like.
It would be helpful if you had two. One of the way it now is and a second of what you want to accomplish.