Can an older Bachman DC engine be converted to DCC
That would depend... What is the unit? Each model, even different ages of the same model, will have a different answer.
An old F-Unit, with the old "pancake" motor and only 4 wheel power? Not worth the time and energy. (Not saying it can't be done, but just not to bother with it. Way too much energy and time.)
A split frame DC unit? Yes. I have done two myself.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Hi Robin:
If you can tell us a little more about the engine it would help us give you a more definitive answer. If you don't know much about it then posting pictures of the frame with the shell off would be great.
Basically, there are some common 'rules' that apply to DCC conversion.
First thing to do is flip the locomotive over and see if there are any black plastic driving wheels. If there are, that means you only have four wheel power pick-up. If you put a decoder in that frame it will have to be one that can accomodate a keep alive unit or the engine will stall constantly. That means you are likely spending $70.00 for a decoder system which is being put into a $25.00 engine.
Next thing to do before even thinking about putting a decoder in is to get the locomotive running properly on DC. If it doesn't run smoothly and reliably on DC then DCC isn't going to cure that. I would suggest taking the locomotive apart, cleaning out all the old grease and then re-assembling with fresh grease and oil. Simply adding a few drops of oil to an old engine isn't going to do much.
Third, how much amperage does the locomotive draw? Decoders have a maximum rated amperage and if the motor draws more than that the decoder will eventually go up in smoke. Modern HO locomotives draw less than .5 amps, often way less.
If you have satisfied all of the above requirements then putting in a decoder is definitely do-able if you feel it is worth spending the money on what is essentially a toy train set engine. Personally, I would spend some time looking through eBay for something similar in a better brand like Kato, Atlas, etc.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
If it's a split frame you're going to have to isolate the motor from the frame (wrap the motor with electrical tape so none of the motor body touches the frame. You'll have to wire the motor directly to the decoder (orange and gray wires). You'll also have to figure out a way to connect the black and red wires to the frame.
Before you do all that, is there enough room for the decoder to sit under the shell? If not you're going to have to file/grind away some of the frame to make room.
If you pursevere and get thru all that you'll have a good runner, i've done serveral of these.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
I have done this with the HO Bachmann Plymouth 0-6-0 switcher. Used a DZ125 decoder.
Split the frame apart and isolated the pancake motor motor contacts. The motor has a plastic housing.
Used the original lights.
Poor pickup was the main issue. DCC is VERY sensitive to an interruption.
Interruptions on the layout can be a real turnoff to DCC so a loco like this can turn into a shelf queen.
Improved the pickups and ok but only did it because some said the pancake motor would not work with DCC. Motor current was around 600 ma. Decoder good for one amp.
Yes, retired with time on my hands.
Not to bad if you have mechanical and electronic capabilities.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
modelmaker51 If it's a split frame you're going to have to isolate the motor from the frame (wrap the motor with electrical tape so none of the motor body touches the frame. You'll have to wire the motor directly to the decoder (orange and gray wires). You'll also have to figure out a way to connect the black and red wires to the frame. Before you do all that, is there enough room for the decoder to sit under the shell? If not you're going to have to file/grind away some of the frame to make room. If you pursevere and get thru all that you'll have a good runner, i've done serveral of these.
I have a split frame GP30.I assume the red wire to one side ot the frame and the black to the other?
Do not assume. Get you multimeter out and do continuity checks along with a good visual.
Bachmann is known to use different wire colors in their locos. I have seen that a few times in some Bachmann locos I have and some in the Bachmann forums have said the same thing.
Edit.
Just remembered this site. Not a GP30 but pretty much what a split chassi loco looks like.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/GP35/GP35.html
Thanks that looks very similer to what I have.
Track wipers are your friend, too. (pickups)
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!