What Solder Paste Flux to Use (if any) from HD?

[kasskaboose]

What solder paste is good for using on track from HD?  I saw both of the following in store: 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-7-oz-Water-Soluble-Solder-Paste-301402/100157093

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-H-20-1-7-oz-Water-Soluble-Solder-Paste-Flux-301302/100177185

If neither, where else to get it from?  Amazon sells GP flux w/ rosin but it would take 4-6 weeks (coming from 3rd party).  I can't wait that long, so thought to get something more immediate. 

I'm using a weller 25W soldering iron after my cheap-o Radio Shak one stopped working.

Thanks,

Lee

[betamax]

What they are probably selling is acid flux.  Not for electrical work under any circumstances. Acid flux is for plumbing.

Your best bet is to go to a shop that deals in electronics and get some Rosin flux from them.  They will have it in various forms and also sell applicators if you need one.

If you don't have an electronics supply shop locally, Digikey or others would have some.  The time waiting for delivery will be less than the time required to find and correct problems caused by acid flux.

Remember: You want Rosin Flux for Electrical/Electronic work.

[charlie9]

Burnley non-corrosive soldering paste.  There is a tin of it on ebay right now for 10.00.  It will be enough to last you a lifetime.  I have used it on trackwork forever.  Never a problem and works great.

Charlie

[peahrens]

I got a plastic jar of such at my 2nd nearest Radio Shack.  Maybe not cost efficient, but quick and enough for a lifetime.

[MisterBeasley]

Why not just use rosin-core solder?

[carl425]

MisterBeasley

Why not just use rosin-core solder? 

Agreed.

My experiments have proven to me that you only need flux if the oxidation hasn't been cleaned off the rail.  When I hit the rail ends with the wire wheel in my Peticure rotary tool the solder flows as quickly and completely as it does with the flux.

I find cleaning the rail ends before soldering to be easier than cleaning up the flux afterwards.

If you still want to use flux, I found this one to work well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNR01Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

[rrinker]

 I've been using Superior #30 Supersafe soldering flux for years now. Water soluble, no acid, no rosin, either. Track joints come out clean, no rosin residue. Disadvantage, if you can call it that, is that you can't just walk in to any store and find this. I got it from thus place, H&N. Haven't seen it on Amazon at all. McMaster-Carr has it but in huge quantities. I have a small jar of the paste and a container of the gel, for 7 years or so and there's still more than 3/4 of the jar left and I havent even used the gel other than to try it out.

http://www.ccis.com/home/hn/page2.html

                   --Randy

 

[RR_Mel]

This is from a guy that has been soldering since 1946, any non acid flux will work.  The trick is to use it sparingly, a little goes a long way and just a small dab from a toothpick will work on dirty track.  If it’s really dirty clean it first with a small file or fine grit wet and dry (240 grit or finer dry) and do it to it.  The less you use the less you have to clean up.

 

Mel

 

Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

[modelmaker51]

I have  a jar of flux paste that I bought at Radio Shack, but I prefer the liquid flux mades by Tix available from Micromart, (usually 3 to 4 days shipping).

The flux that's in solder isn't always adequate and often burns off before you get it to a join and with a paste you put it exactly where you want it.

[kasskaboose]

Thanks all for the responess.  So happy that I didn't bother w/ HD.  I might get something from Radio Shak since they have them and won't have to wait 3-4 for shipping.

[gmpullman]

I have had good luck with Superior #135 and I bought it through Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Rosin-Paste-Flux-135-Jar/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_236_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=10YJQ5AB19PAD3BZEMRG&dpID=31rmOZiT6lL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

Most of my soldering projects don't require additional flux, the small amount in the core of the solder is plenty for clean joints but when conditions aren't perfect a dab of flux will help clean and etch the metal for a good, solid joint.

Good Luck, Ed

[BroadwayLion]

LION builded bare bus from a no14 solid wire. In shop I attach wire to vice, take knife and strip the inusulation. Was old Wire. Material from ages of rest, heat, cold and old age took its toll on this wire. I installed it, but found that I could not solder to it.

Solution: 1) mechinical cleaning with motor tool; 2) Cleaning with lacqure thinner; 3) good mechinical attachment of tap wire; 4) add flux; 5) solder.

LION would *like* good flux and will have to spend good money at an electricians establishment to oftain it, but... In the meanwild him got some Rasio Shack stuff, and best advice is to not go anywhere near a Radio Shack Store for flux. It is very bad, annoying stuff. Dad used the same tin of Nokorode flux all of my lifetime. If I coud find that, I would buy that.

 

ROAR