Hi to all.
Can anyone here give some help about electrical circuit connection for ho walthers swing bridge? I´m talking about the Universal Gearbox & Motor Drive Kit (933-1050) The manual is clear about its construction, but i cant figure out how the wires and microswitchs fits and putting together into the structure. Obviously pictures are the best.
Thanks, Mario.
Mario,
To The Forums. I'll try to help You out from memory, cause I can't find My instructions at the moment...I built mine back in the late 90's and I'll add, it still works. On the center base, You will find a indentation molded in the plastic for the motor install and also a spot for the micro-switch, which must be installed correctly so the pin on the gear will hit the lever that is on the switch....they show the orientation of that on the instructions. All the wiring, including the track power goes down the hollow shaft and over to the other micro switch that is in the end abutment, that the lever is sticking out of a hole in the abutment....that must line up with the trip lever on the right hand end of the bridge. All that wiring....track wiring goes to Your system DC/DCC and the micro switch/motor wiring, goes to a DPDT center off toggle switch where Your power source 12vdc gets connected to the two end contacts on the switch, then crisscross to other end contacts. The two center contacts go to the micro switches. I also recommend using a 6volt dc power source, instead of 12v, You will get a more realistic speed, for opening and closing. The way it is supposed to work....when closed, the toggle switch will be in the center or off position, when You move the toggle to the left, the bridge will open until the pin that is on the center gear hits the micro switch lever, killing all power to the motor and stopping the bridge. You do not have to touch the toggle switch until You want to close the bridge. Move toggle switch to right and bridge will close, until it hits the lever in the abutment, again killing power, bridge will stop. Pay close attention to how the diodes are connected for the micro switches, that are wired where the switches are. The motor will not get any power once the micro switches stop it.....but You will still have power at the toggle switch, so You can have lights for open/close which will remain on once bridge stops in either open or closed position. I use Red for bridge open, Green for closed position on My control panel.
I cannot stress enough....that it is extremely important, that the bridge and abutments be perpendicular to one another and perfectly level, for it to work properly. Both ends of the bridge, must slide on top of the two end abutments, or it will not work. I had to do a lot of sanding and filing, to get mine perfect and used a little silicon dry film to get mine to slide great.
I will continue to look for My instructions, in case I forgot any important info.
Great working model when completed....does take some tinkering though.
I used Walthers code 83 bridge track with leads soldered to bottom of rails near the hollow shaft for mine. Four wires, cause I run DC and each track was a different block,24 gauge stranded wire.
If You need a lot more help...send Me a PM..(private msg.)
Take Care!
Frank
Thanks Frank. I appreciate all your recomendations. I started with a big problems because walthers send me a wrong microswitch and some folks help with this.
Can you take some pictures of your bridge? i would like to see the microswtich's place. I cant figure out how the wires fit, thats my problem. Understood how to make conectión and solder but no how attach to structure.
Mario.
Just caught Your question now.....I will have to take it apart, (the center) to do that, I will try to get it this weekend....got a lot of things on My plate this week....Hang in there. I'll get back to You, as soon as I can.
I scanned a couple of pic's of the instructions with some notes I added to it and tried to explain the orientation of the switches and placement....hopefully, You will be able to get an idea of how they go. I still will take pic's of mine, but like I said I will have to take it apart and get a clear enough pic' for You to see.
Here's hoping You can read them:
EDIT: I forgot to mention all the wires for the center pier. In part# 47 that's the one the motor is attached to and is the bottom of the pier, there is a large hole cut out that should match Your base...mine is plywood where most of the wiring will go through, with the wiring that goes to the right abutment, must also be under Your layout base out of site, but accessible from underneath. I also have lights in the shack, so I also use the hollow motor shaft....I forgot to mention that earlier. The diodes are on the micro-switches. I just hope You are not using foam as a base. Also make sure You leave enough length of wire under the base so You can lift the bridge off the center pier, it is not glued to the base, it is a snug tight fit...one reason why it must be perfectly level.
You may click on pic's for a larger view.
Hello,
I am trying to build the swing bridge as well and find that the instructions are not best. So thanks for your post but I do not see the pics anymore. Anyway you can add them again.
Thanks
Foxy Hello, I am trying to build the swing bridge as well and find that the instructions are not best. So thanks for your post but I do not see the pics anymore. Anyway you can add them again. Thanks
Foxy,
I added them again....they won't go away this time. You also can click on them for a larger view. Should You need any more help...send Me a PM.
I'm in the process of redoing the whole area and adding another bridge where the second portal is. This pic' is of the base plate for the swing bridge...the motor is removed, goes where the screws are sticking up:
I scratch/bashed this bridge from actual plans to fit where the ceiling slopes......It will fit perfect:
Hello Frank.
I read your reply on the electronic connections of the swing brdige. Love your bridges.
I am in the process of building my double track swing brdige of Walthers and am trying out the electronic connections. I followed the guidelines as per manual but have something odd happening.
It appears the wrong microswitch is stopping the bridge. When I close the bridge the pier microswitch is supposed to stop the bridge; instead the bridg continuous and by experiment it seems to stop however but only if I activate the pier micro switch ( which is supposed to do when it opens).
Similarly when I open the bridge it will only stop when I activate the abutment micro switch.
I have included a vdeo and picture of my wiring. Hope it makes sense.
I must have done something wrong.
Hopefully you or somebody can help.
Kind regards,
Robert (Ghent , Belgium)
PS. Video seems to be too large for attaching.
Robert,
To The Forums.........I just caught Your post now. If I recall correctly, (It's been quite a long time since I built that) I had to reverse the diodes in the wiring for it to work the way it supposed to. I believe that was an error in the wiring instructions given and they never bothered to change it. Try using jumpers to get it working correctly before soldering. Should You still need help....send Me a PM (Private Msg) and I'll look at My connections to make sure that is how it is done. I still have the bridge off the layout.......still working on that area. But have a bad shoulder which dictates, when I can/cannot do things. A infamous gift from Vietnam 67'.
Take Care
Edit: I was able to remove the abutmant, ( I had screwed them in place) to look at the wiring and mine is wired exactly like the diagram. I did not reverse the diodes. I reversed the two center leads on the DPDT switch and that got it in sinc with the rest of the wiring. Give that a try with jumpers if You can. I know I was having the same problem You are having. I run mine off a dedicated 6vdc power supply. I thought I changed the diodes but did not...just changed the switch DPDT switch wiring.
Robair996PS. Video seems to be too large for attaching.
Welcome to the forum. Post your video to youtube and then post the share link here.
Adding pictures to this forum is tricky. This thread tells you how you have to do it.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/249194.aspx
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley