Hey guys I'm looking for some good (and not very expensive) options to have some flashing crossing lights for the road grade crossings on my HO layout I'm building. What would you guys recommend? I'd like to do it without spending hundreds per crossing if you all know of any cheap ones. Thanks!
I have 3 crossings. They have signals themselves from various sources. They are operated by Digitrax DS64s and detection is provided by a BDL168, though a BD4 can be used instead.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
There are many ways to do it. RRCirkits has a self contained system.
http://www.rr-cirkits.com/
I installed a pair of crossing flashers on a museum layout i;m working on. It was very easy as the train is only three or four cars long. I stopped the train so the last car was just off the crossing pavement. I cut a gap in one rail between the loco and first car. Turned the train around and did the same thing on the other side of the crossing. I used some styrene to fill the gaps making one block. I used an NCE-BD20 current detector to activate a Dallee electronics crossing flasher #367. When the current drawing loco enters the detection block it starts the flasher. When the last car passes the crossing pavement the loco is leaving the block and the flasher stops. The layout is single track and loop to loop so it works in both directions. There are several detection systems available, but due to the museums budget I had to use the simplest and cheapest equipment.
Define expensive.
I use Tomar crossing signals, a Circuitron alternating flasher, and an NCE BD20 occupancy detector. No gate, no bell.
Rich
Alton Junction
Check out Grade Crossing Pro and Innovative Train Technology.
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richhotrain Define expensive. I use Tomar crossing signals, a Circuitron alternating flasher, and an NCE BD20 occupancy detector. No gate, no bell. Rich
Circuitron 800-5102 FL-2 Alternating Flasher - $15.99 - MB Klein
NCE BD20 Occupancy Detector - $11.99 - MB Klein
Tomar HO 862 Railroad Crossing Signal (1 pair) - $47.89 - MB Klein
Total - $75.87. plus shipping
The wiring is straightforward, and the section of track controlling the beginning and end of the crossing simply needs to be isolated.
First, you need to decide who/what you're going to use. Then, follow the instructions. With the Grade Crossing Pro, there's no cutting the rail, etc. It's separate from the track and uses it's own power supply. You can use an old DC wall wart/power pack as long as it meets the minimum power supply requirements. The actuator is a photocell or infrared sensor installed between the rails, it doesn't care if your wheels are plastic or metal.
I have 2 grade crossing pros on my layout. Once set up they work great. Joe
https://www.logicrailtech.com/gcp.htm
It has a timer, read: https://www.logicrailtech.com/gcp.htm
LOL! Joe and I were replying at the same time
joes2fst4uThank you all! I will definitely look up that info! So how far out in both directions should I cut that one rail? And how do I power that plus detect the train so that my locomotive doesn't lose power in that block? I'm assuming all my rolling stock need metal wheels too then right? That may be a project in itself haha. I love MB Klein though! Thanks again!
I first gap the exit point by replacing the metal rail joiners with plastic rail joiners. I place those gaps at a point after the crossing equal to the end of my longest train. Then, I gap the entry point at the same distance before the crossing. The entire section inside the gaps needs at least one pair of feeder wires to keep the locomotive from losing power. But those feeder wires are connected to the main bus wires, just like all of the other feeder wires. The only purpose of gapping the section of track is to trigger the crossing signals on and off as the train enters and exits the section.
joes2fst4u What's the purpose of having the grade crossing section of track isolated?
The purpose of an isolated section is so that the occupancy detector can tell when the train is in it. In my case, the power to the isolated section goes through the BDL168, which detects the presence of the electical load. It requires not only metal wheels, but resistance between the wheels.
A system that uses photo cells does not require an isolated section.
The nice thing about the Grade Crossing Pro is that it has all the logic to operate realistically - not just drop the gates and start the flashers when a train enters the grade crossing area, but if you stop before reaching the gates and back up, the gates will go up. That's why is has 4 photocells and not just 2. 3 are used for each direction. Say you have a train going =>, photocells are 1-4, left to right. First it his photocell 1, which trips the gates and flasher. Then it trips photocell 2 which is the maintain - keeps the gates down adn flasher working - if you stop short of that, it will shut off the flashers and raise the gates. Then you cross the road and hit photocell 3. This one holds the system on until the last car clears, adn the gates go up and the flasher stops - as soon as the last car clears the grade crossing. Photocell for does nothing in this direction. Now if your train is going <=, you hit 4, 3, and then 2 in that order, functioning as above.
It's a neat product, well thought out and I think worth the slight extra cost. It can also be expanded to handle multiple tracks. This is your best bet, if you want something automatically triggered.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
If you plan on opperating in a darken situation, the IR is the way to go. There is an adjustment on the board for light sensativity. Joe
https://www.logicrailtech.com/
Click on enter teh store button.
Or here https://www.logicrailtech.com/xcart/home.php?cat=260
If you want cheap, I went with the Busch crossing signals, which come with a flasher circuit. I just use a toggle switch, and work them manually, due to a double track, mainline with trains in both directions. Here is a link, but they seem to be out of stock for now.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Busch-HO-5934-Crossing-Signals-p/bus-5934.htm
I use a simple pushbutton to start the bell and a miniture toggle switch to start the flasher. The bell times out, but the flashers keep flashing. This is a crossing protected by a man in a elevated crossing tower, who would have manually operated the crossing, especially since it over the throat of my passanger station which which has a total of four tracks through the crossing, two of which are the main line bypassing the station. My 7 year old grandkids get a great kick out of making sure the bell and lights are on before they run the train through there, then turn off the flashers assuming the crossing is not still blocked by a train in the station.
Paul
I installed Berkshire Junction cross bucks and infra-red detectors, no gates or bells,on my Black River Valley Railroad layout. The circuit board does make provision for gates and bells however. Mine are powered with an old 'train set' power supply, but any good 12v wall wart should work.
They have worked flawlessly on the BRVRR for years now.
I purchased them at a train show years ago for about $50.00. I think the price has gone up a bit, but they are still a good value. Everything you need for one crossing is included in their deluxe kit.
Here is a link: http://www.berkshirejunction.com/
Here is another link to a "How To" pictorial on my website: http://www.brvrr.com/CR.html
Good luck however you decide to set up your crossings.
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/