I'd like to build 4X8 HO layout and work with DCC, I am familiar with DC but as far as converting locomotives (especially steam) from DC to DCC is well over my head and I was curious if you could wire a layout for DC and run trains then switch out power packs turn on the blocks to be used and then run a DCC train?
Yes, that's entirely possible. Another solution would be to wire your DC power pack and DCC system through a Double-Pole, Double-Throw, Center-Off, toggle switch and use it to select between the two modes of operation.
Depending on the make and age of your steam fleet, they may have a decoder socket in the tender.
I wired my present layout with typical DC blocks. Each block has a toggle that selects from one of two power feeds. Currently, one supply is DC, the other DCC. Thus I can pick and choose.
With this setup, mistakes in throwing those toggles can be irritating. So it's best not to make any. Of course, the whole layout can be switched to either mode. Then it's not a problem.
Ed
Mistakes with each block individually set for DC or DCC can be more than irritating - you can damage the DCC system, or if you have a fancier DC power pack, it can be damaged, or a decoder in a loco can be fried if you cross those block boundaries with the switches set incorrectly. That's why we always say if you want to be able to run both, make the whole layout switch, and use the center-off toggle so there's no chance of cross connecting as you flip the toggle.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
My MRC Tech 6 will go from DC to DCC by a push of a button..There is a light that shows what mode the Tech 6 is in. I'm yet to run a DC engine while the T6 is in the DCC mode.
The reason is simple..A glance at the light will tell me what mode the T6 is in.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
First, welcome aboard!
How many DC locomotives do you have that you might want to convert? DC to DCC conversion can range from a piece of cake to a pain in the patootie. If you don't actually have any locomotives, it's really better to invest a bit more money in engines that are already DCC-equipped.
Like many of us, I thought of doing the same thing. But, as soon as I ran my first DCC engine on a few feet of track, connected with clip leads, I was "converted" myself. I put away my DC power pack and never connected it to the tracks again.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Welcome to the forums.
I have a 4x6 HO layout that was set up with DC blocks. I used Atlas Selectors that I had on hand to be able to operate with two power packs. Never did hitch up a second DC power pack, but did put DCC on the other side of the Selectors. Because it is a small layout I have had no trouble, as I remove the DC locos before I put the DCC ones on the track.
I can see how if you has a larger layout how, if you didn't remove locos from the track, that some of the above problems could occur. I have thought of having seperate loco servicing areas for the two types of locos. Be sure all locos are in the yard and shut off. I would not have the wires for the other power even connected to that area.
Have fun,
Richard
Now watch me go out and destroy a decoder because I was not careful enough!
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
I've considered doing that for part of my branchline which will have a switchback logging operation served by my Heisler. That will be the only loco operating on that part of the layout. I would need to wire the interchange yard for both DC and DCC operation with a toggle switch to flip from one to the other. It might be cheaper than a decoder since I still have an old DC power pack. Still thinking about this.
It's OK to be very careful, but it's really better to not take any chances at all. ONE toggle switch, so the layout is either all-DC or all-DCC. I would never build a layout where the possibility of crossing from a live-DC to a live-DCC section even existed. Ever have a couple of beers and head to the trainroom to run some trains? Operating Under the Influence doesn't just apply to 1:1 cars.
One of the possible issues when an engine or cunductive piece of rolling stock crosses between DCC and DC powered tracks is the addition of voltage. Besides sending DCC's AC into your Dc power pack, the voltage is increased momentarily due to the metal wheels connecting both power supplies. Usually not a big problem for motors because most can take the brief spike. lights, integrated circuits, etc. are a different story. Only takes that brief spike to blow them. For the most part DCC decoders that are NMRA compliant will survive because they are supposed to operate with up to 22 volts.
Best practice is to use a method that will only allow one type of power to be connected at any time. My club came up with a plug that is used like a jumper. It can only jump from the DCC supply or the DC supply. Pick one. Because it is a plug instead of a switch it can't be inadvertently bumped to the wrong position.
Martin Myers
Frisco92 I am familiar with DC but as far as converting locomotives (especially steam) from DC to DCC is well over my head
I am familiar with DC but as far as converting locomotives (especially steam) from DC to DCC is well over my head
Most engines made in the last 10-15 years offer some type of "plug and play" option where you just remove a dummy plug and plug in your decoder. On engines with the green light boards, you can replace the light board with a decoder the same size and shape as the light board, with the wires connecting to the same spots on the light board. Pretty easy. If you have some very old steam engines, like old Mantua ones, or some older Athearn diesels, you will need to isolate the motor from the frame. That usually isn't very complicated. On a Mantua steam engine, you unscrew the motor, put down some tape, or thin plastic, and screw the motor back in place using plastic screws (available at the LHS). Then you just wire the motor to the motor outputs of the decoder.
Don't do it. Something inevitably will get damaged.