I have tried this combination (8 pin plug) and works fine until I try to put the body on. Usually does not work, or if it does, the body does not fit all the way on to snap on.
OK, the problem is obvious, but I'd like to know if anyone else has tried this combo and made it work. I've used both short and longer harness (Digitrax) and still can't find the majic place.
If body modification is necessary, then what is the point in calling this DCC-Ready?
Mike
Here is the TCS equivalent install, where is it getting hung up? I don;t have any SD's but the GPs have an issue witht he uncoupling lever getting caught in the draft gear when putting the shell back on and that keeps it from seating fully.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_2000_SD7/Proto%202000%20SD7.html
On this style, I don;t wast time with that horrid circuit board, I rip out and hard ware a 9 pin decoder with bare wire harness. Easier and more likely to work. And frees up a lot of space.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Using the Digitraz Decoder Selector as a reference, the DH163PS is not on the recommended list.
I installed the NCE D13SRP decoder on my P2K SD7s. The shell fits snugly with that arrangement.
Rich
Alton Junction
Digitrax had a P2K specific decoder(DH163L0) that was setup for LED or low voltage lamps like those in the P2K engines. There work fine the GP's, but as you have discovered - Life-Like did not plan enough enough room for the NMRA 8 pin header to fit when the shell was attached. This also happened with a lot of the early E unite production runs. That 8 pin NMRA header on that short harness is causing the same problem.
Since the diodes on the P2K 'light board' can become 'leaky', and cause all kinds of strange problems - I just removed the light board and 'hard wire' the decoder. This eliminates the 'no room' issues. You can either trim off the 8 pin header, or get a new harness from Digitrax with long leads(3-4"). I just solder the harness and insulate the soldered connection with heat shrink. Now just plug the harness into the decoder's 9 pin JST connector. I also change out all of the lamps with LED's. I have 4 P2K SD7's and 6 GP9s that I have done this to. It is a one evening project...
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
The way the light boards work on the SD's, with the traces to cut, the big resistor is left in the circuit for the lights, so the DH165L0 is not needed, just an ordinary decoder with an 8 pin harness. On the TCS site I linked they just plug in a T1, the DH165 is no bigger. It should all fit fine. Like I said, the only one I did, I just removed the stock board and hard wired a decoder because I always replace the light bulbs with LEDs anyway. A TCS T1 definitely fit fine with the factory board removed.
Sorry for taking so long to reply and thank you guys for the helpful responses. I tried the decoder again with a Digitrax short 8 pin harness and got it to work. Turns out the body fit issue may be at the coupler pockets and not caused by the decoder at all. I'll have to work on that and see. For the time being it's working without having to hard wire the decoder, a task my increasingly shaky hands try to avoid whenever possible.