I have the parts and am disassembling the "new in box" LifeLike P2K E6 loco, cleaning and lubing a bit and to solder the pickup leads at the trucks connection. Before getting to the LokSound Select and HiBass speakers installation a couple of questions stimulated by the LokSound user manual:
- I see they have a choice on how to wire LED lights, either use the built-in 2.2k resistors or bypass those by adding a solder bridge to the board so I can choose my resistor size. I will be using 5mm Christmas LEDs, warm white, which I've previously measured at 12v with a 1K resistor as drawing 9.3ma. Don't know whether to go first with the built-in 2.2k, or go the choice route with a typical 1k or something in between. Any experience here to guide what to try first?
- I will be replacing two bulb lights on this E6 front. The lower headlamp is a typical bulb. The upper one is a Mars light, the bulb having 3 wires to it and what looks like two filaments. (Is this how they created a Mars effect with bulbs?) Obviously I would replace this upper one with a single 2-leg LED. I see the LokSound comes with Aux3 set up for Mars light by default, so I presume I can just hook up the Aux3 connections to the LED (w/resistor somewhere) and that the decoder will take care of the rest, making the LED function like a MARs light? And it will work off one of my function buttons or I can "remap" to make that happen if needed?
- And the dumb question to add. I assume the lowe headlight gets hooked to the LokSound front headlight connections. My question is a giveaway that I really don't know how a main headlight and Mars light are supposed to function / be used when both are available.
I'd rather proceed with a bit more knowledge if anyone can shed some light on those particulars.
Thanks in advance.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Use the on-board resistors first. If they are too dim, use the 1K and switch to the non-limited common.
Yes, the Aux 3 will operate off a function button,a nd can be remapped to whichever button you like. The effect in the decoder with an LED will be superior to the two filament back and forth methods used on the factory board.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks, Randy. BTW, this run has the truck connections soldered, saving some work, unlike the A/B set I've had awhile.
To correct my comment on built-in resistors. That's only on the Select Direct (I'll be using one of those in Genesis GP9), not the shrink wrapped Select Aux6 for the E6. And I note that outputs can be dimmed with CVs, so no point in starting higher than 1k I guess.
A new curiosity. I see there is an option to add capacitors, 100 or 2200 microfarad (or a current keeper type). Do folks add the smaller ones? How much room do they take? I would not have the nerve to solder on the teeny pads on the select Aux6.
Tom (TStage) shoehorened a cap in one of the Bowser Baldwin switchers - VERY tiny space to work in. You should have tons of room in the E unit. SHould be able to get one of the TCS KA units in there. If you have a sodlering iron small enough to solder decoder wire, it's not a big deal to solder to those pads. Tin the pad, tin the wire, then apply wire and heat, no additional solder should be needed, so that pretty much elminates the risk of shorting to an adjacent pad. Something as small as 100uF isn't going to do much. That keep alive connection on the Select Direct powers everything - sound and motor, so to get any measureable results you need a decent amount of capacitance.
Well, after most of the day, starting with cleaning & lubing the E6, I then addressed the LokSound Select Aux6,dual HiBass speakers and headlight & Mars light LEDs install. With fingers and toes crossed, I put it on the program track (without its shell) and it read CV8 ok, so I went to Ops mode (should one first check anything else to ensure not frying the decoder?).
Well.switching to address 3, I pushed speed step 1 (forgot that it can be started on F8) and it went forward. The headlight worked, the Mars light worked, it reversed, etc. So ran it around and then changed to 4-digit address. Well, I for one am very impressed! It runs great, and sounds at least superb (engine and horn). I have not done any tuning yet (slow start, sound volume, lights brightness, etc).
I have serious doubts that the QSI Quantum other E6 will not be converted...need to first check out whether it needs drivetrain help, and may await the upcoming dual 12-cyl 567 sound file coming to LokSound. Do many LHSs have Lok Programmers so I can get the file updated conveniently?
On installation, I found tinning and soldering the 10-12 wires I had to deal with iffy until I began to first apply some flux. It made a world of difference...the solder just flowed right onto the wires. Do folks also find that near essential? And do you then alcohol clean the connection (like with trackwork) to prevent corrosion?
Thanks for all the help offerred along the way! What fun. Hope the Genesis GP9 goes as well (awaiting iPhone type speakers for it).