Using Graphite on Track for better Conductivity

[Marty C]

I was browsing old articles on another site and came across one on track conductivity. There was the usual debate about the best methods for cleaning the track but one of the commenters mentioned using an Artist graphite pencil on the rails in a few places. The explanation was that since graphite is highly conductive, putting in a few places in small amounts allows the engine and cars to spread it around and that at least in the commenter's opinion it greatly improved conductivity and also reduced the frequency of cleaning.

I realy don't want to start another debate about track cleaning, no-ox use or "gleaming". We have debated that endlessly. What I would like to know is has anyone used the graphite method? and with what result. I am open to experimenting with it but thought I'd ask the experts for an opinion first.

Thanks,

 

Marty C

[tomikawaTT]

Graphite is a lubricant.  If your locos are close to their tractive limit trying to pull 20 cars up a 2.5% grade it might make the difference between gripping and slipping.

If, OTOH, you use four six-axle diesels (all powered) to pull the same train around the dead level Plywood Pacific, it probably won't do any damage.  Unlike Wahl clipper oil, it won't attract dust.

Since my layout has exactly no level track beyond the station Start signals I don't think I'll risk it.

Chuck (Modeling mountanous Central Japan in September, 1964)

[Marty C]

Chuck,

Thanks for the quick reply. My grades are small so I don't think that will be a problem but it is something to consider, BTW I spent three years in the early nineties in Sasebo on Kyushu with the USN. Enjoyed the area and people.

All the best,

 

Marty C

[mlehman]

Marty,

I tried it and it didn't seem to help much. I was trying to use as little as possible to avoid making things too slippery, so maybe I just needed more?

Since then, I was advised to try CRC 2-26. Great stuff. It's designed to improve contact, but is also a protectant and lube. Clean your track first. Using a cork with one end soaked in the CRC, apply by wiping the cork end along the rails. Let dry overnight. The appearance is not super shiny, more like steel rails really look like. I've applied it to the entire layout twice in 6 years. No problems or complaints.

Small World Dept: I'm the AF brat, but my wife spent large chunks of her childhood there as a Navy brat, including attending local schools and picking up fluent Japanese.

[Marty C]

Mike,

Domo Arrigato. I have a couple of cans of CRC also. One question. After letting it sit over night do you wipe the rails or just start running trains?

Marty C

[gmpullman]

The only place I use a dry powder lubricant on the track is at switch points. A friend at work gave me a bottle of Dow-Corning MolyKote Z powder and I use it for couplers and the switch points. Works great on squeaky side rods, too. It is molybdenum disulphide and not graphite.

Then I just Googled it! Wow, It had better work well... $70 for 10 oz. bottle! Yikes.

I'll use it more sparingly now... Ed

[retsignalmtr]

Having been in the electrical field most of my life from Vocational High School, Electricians Helper, Electrician to Signal Maintainer it has been stressed to me that the best thing for conductivity is for the surfaces to be clean and dry. No, oils no coatings and any contact cleaner must be wiped off completely leaving no residue. It is a procedure that I carry over into my modeling with my layout and my clubs layouts. Someone is always coming up with a new way to improve conductivity and it should be looked at positively and whatever works for you is OK. Several members of my club have tried many of the recommended procedures and they have all led to major problems requiring the track and wheels having to be cleaned again and again to get it all removed. I run a slider car on each train and clean the pads often. They do pick up a lot of crud and I only use 90% Isopropol Alcohol on a cloth wrapped on a finger to wipe the rails when I have to and make sure I remove all the Alcohol with another dry cloth.

[Marty C]

Thanks for the replies. I agree with you, retsignalmtr, that cleanliness is the best solution. I have been using the 90% iso-alcohol and pads but with the layout being in the three car garage shared with the wife's car its hard to keep the crud out. I'm always looking for ways to improve that situation. Also, I can relate to the comment about trying methods and introducing new problems. Actually thats why I now throw out the ideas before hand to learn from others mistake and successes.

Thanks for the inputs,

Marty C

[mlehman]

Marty,

You just let it sit overnight, then run.

Another thing to emphasize is that very little is needed. I usully take a shallow jar and spray some into it, enough for a small pool of liquid at the bottom. The cork is dipped in it and the applied to the track by wiping, but there shouldn't really be liquid on the cork, it just needs to be dampened in it.

Speaking of navy connections, it was a friend in Australia who used to do naval engineering work for the Australian Navy who convinced me to give it a try, Laurie "Scoop" McLean. He has a video on how he does it here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReSUSruSVVY

I figure if it solves problems like ours in the Navy, it'll probably work well on the layout.

[selector]

Rail and tire cleanliness is very important, but so is even trackwork.  If you have uneven track, your longer trucks and wheelbases might cause some power-picking metal tire surfaces to lose contact with the rails.  Enough of this, plus tender-to-locomotive tethers that are iffy, or wipers that are barely making contact, and you could be in for a most unpleasant experience trying to keep your trains moving reliably.  Sometimes our problems are mutifold, and not just the result of one particular defect.

[Marty C]

Mike,

Thanks for the link. I enjoy Laurie's videos and trust his advice. One last question on the application. Laurie mentions cork for applying. Could I use cork roadbed as a substitute since I have a lot more of that sitting around than true cork.

Thanks.

Marty C

[modelmaker51]

Marty C

Mike,

Thanks for the link. I enjoy Laurie's videos and trust his advice. One last question on the application. Laurie mentions cork for applying. Could I use cork roadbed as a substitute since I have a lot more of that sitting around than true cork.

Thanks.

Marty C

 

 

Yes.

[Renegade1c]

While graphite is extremely conductive it also heats up rather quickly when current is passed through it. This can cause arcing (little sparks) which can start to pit the surface of your rails. While Graphite/carbon is a good lubricant and good conductor (Its used for most electric motor brushes) it really depends on how it is formed. For example motor brushes are small solid rods which is great since it have a large surface area to pass current and not have much turn to heat. Small particulates like graphite dust dont do so well when a current is passed through the particales and they heat up quickly and can cause sparks. 

I used Carbon tips for my resistance soldering machine. I use it to quickly solder feeders since the carbon tip heats and cools quickly.

[Marty C]

Mike, et al,

Thanks for all the inputs.

Renegade, the heating up issue is one I had not considered so thanks for that. I went the CRC route yesterday and let it sit overnight. I did a lot of running today and all the engines ran smoothly. I also noted that when I ran my finger lightly over the rail I don't get the usual black mark that seemed to always be there no matter how much I cleaned the track. I might still experiment with the graphite but for now the CRC option appears to be my first choice.

Thanks,

 

Marty C

[YoHo1975]

Some quick notes. someone mentioned sparks caused by the Graphite. On the contrary. The black crud you wipe off your rails is actually oxidation caused by micro arcs aka sparks that occur between untreated rail and the metal wheels. These are absolutely unavoidable. It is generally not dirt. The theory behind Graphite application is that it is spread so thin that it is near graphene. If applied appropriately it cannot act as a lubricant. Graphite is actually not a lubricant it will only work as such if applied liberally and in a model railroad setting, it should be applied so thinly that it would not have any lubricating properties. Anyway, the working theory is that the graphite will reduce the microarcs and also bridge minor connectivity issues which therefore creates smoother operation. I've not had much experience with it, but there are a couple Aussies participants on another Railroad forum that have sworn by it. The electrical properties are pretty easy to understand. There is a theory that many of the No-Ox/Clipper Oil solutions are, in addition to any oxidation inhibiting, also increasing the "dampness" of the contact surface which also reduces micro arcs. If you live in a low humidity area, it might be worth it to add a humidifier and see how rail oxidation changes. Rest assured though, the micro arcing is a fact. There's been a chemical analysis done on the black crud by a forum member on MRH.