Just getting into structure lighting the last few weeks, today I started on four more structures. On two of these I'm adding 3-LED segments (cut from a 16' roll). When I tried these before, my success in securely (vs tentatively) soldering the tinned wires to the plus/minus connection spots varied. I previously tried scratching the copper "dots" on the LED segments to expose fresh metal, but on one I had tried flux. Today I used flux on both and they soldered easily with my pencil iron, the wires being tinned and having a small blob of solder on the tip as well. A drop quickly formed and made a nice hemispheric solder connection across the whole solder dot. I guess the bare looking copper dots were somewhat oxidized, and the flux makes a big difference. A reminder for me on taking short cuts.
The clear blob around the connection is epoxy, added to prevent stress on the connection.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Sometimes using a Micro Mark scratch brush on the unplated copper. Works if the solder already has rosin flux in it.
I have soldered with new PC board out of a sealed pkg without cleaning the copper but not very often.
Soldering to PC board is something I have seen a lot over the years. Many think it "looks clean".
Same with soldering feeders to rails.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
If important, I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder, with "rosin soldering flux", both from Radio Shack.
I always use flux and I always tin the connection points and the wire tips before soldering them together. That allows me to make very quick solid joints without putting any undue heat stress on the components. It works extremely well for soldering things like SMD LEDs.
I also use Kester's Electronic Silver Solder (2% silver) which seems to make things easier too. A little goes a long way.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I've only used segments cut from the water-resistant strips that Radio Shack sells. These have a clear rubbery-plastic cover, the a sheath of white that covers the strip, with piercings that allow access to the copper contact points. These have all soldered easily for me with rosin core colder. I suspect the extra packaging protects the copper form most oxidants.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I drill a small #78 bit hole through the copper trace with a pin vise, that's .020'' stick the wire through the hole and solder with 60/40 rosin core solder and it looks eactly like components that are soldered to a PC board and put a dab of gap filling CA on the insulation part of the wires. Already have done 25 that way without a hitch. Add a resistor when needed to one wire where it connects to power, some SMD's are still too bright for my taste.
Take Care!
Frank