I really want to thank everybody for the input on my Bachmann Empire Builder running very slow on DCC. I might have to purchase a DCC equipped loco to verify. Using the DC powerpack it runs fine but stalls now and then. Using the Digitrax Zephyr it barely moves at all. Bought a meter, and I am assuming my wiring is ok because I checked many places all around the track and always got a consistant 13.6 volts everywhere. Let me know, I am assuming that my wiring is good to go with that reading. Guess it's time to buy a DCC loco but also, does anyone know which decoder I would need for the Bachmann Empire Builder Loco. It's a 4 8 4 and runs fine even though I removed the truck set in front and in back and only have the 8 main wheels powering it.
caboose62...Bought a meter, and I am assuming my wiring is ok because I checked many places all around the track and always got a consistant 13.6 volts everywhere...
caboose62 I really want to thank everybody for the input on my Bachmann Empire Builder running very slow on DCC. I might have to purchase a DCC equipped loco to verify. Using the DC powerpack it runs fine but stalls now and then. Using the Digitrax Zephyr it barely moves at all. Bought a meter, and I am assuming my wiring is ok because I checked many places all around the track and always got a consistant 13.6 volts everywhere. Let me know, I am assuming that my wiring is good to go with that reading. Guess it's time to buy a DCC loco but also, does anyone know which decoder I would need for the Bachmann Empire Builder Loco. It's a 4 8 4 and runs fine even though I removed the truck set in front and in back and only have the 8 main wheels powering it.
Was a loco on the track when measuring the DCC voltage? Normally the DCC voltage should be close to the value of the power pack if the system does not have an adjustable power supply.
My NCE Power Cab has a 13.9 VDC power pack. The DCC voltage with a loco on the track measures 13.6 VAC.
What kind of decoder is in the loco now?
Sounds like the present decoder in the loco needs to be reset to factory specs and then fine tunned. Stock Bachmann on board are low end Lenz decoders.
A DZ123PS 1 Amp Economy Mobile Decoder, 2 Functions, DCC Medium Plug on Short Harness would work.
I have used some DZ125's in a couple Bachmann locos.
You need a decoder with a short harness and eight pin plug.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg, i measured with no loco on the track at all. my bachmann 484 is not dcc but a normal dc loco and my digitrax zephyr was connected with just normal track status indicator lit. will put the engine on but since it is non dcc and runs Very slow...cant keep it on the track too long. thanks for the help
Ok did not realize there was no decoder.
You need to give more information in a message.
TCS also has nice small decoders with a short harness and eight pin plug.
You can Google Digitrax decoders and TCS decoders. You will get good links for more DCC knowledge.
Google Tony's Trains. Do a lot of reading.
put my non dcc loco on the track and it sits and hums. cant keep it on there long, but I got a reading of 14.5 volts.
Sounds ok. Where is the meter connected?
When you get a DCC loco, measure at different spots on the track if the loco slows down so you can identify possible poor connections.
As was said by others, you need a load, auto light bulb or DCC equipped loco on the rails.
Don't forget to do the Google searches I suggests. I have to assume you are new to DCC. A lot different to DC.
Thanks all. Now another question from the DCC rookie. I got rid of my scotchloks and soldered everything. Didnt realize that DCC locos go slower like a prototype RR instead of the old DC where I could run them off the track if I felt like it. Checked every section of track and got a voltage of 14.7 volts, unless I switched the leads on my tester. If I used black test lead on red rail of track, I got 13.6 volts everywhere. Train seems to run better on my elevated area where I put more terminal drops, about every 2.5 feet or so. Question: Which would get me more smooth running train, adding additional terminal drops, or soldering rail joiners? HINT: soldering rail joiners means this 62 year old geezer doesnt have to crawl under the layout. LOL
UNsoldered rail joiners are purely a mechanical connection. Being a mechanical connection, they will work well when everything is clean and new, but over time, that mechanical connection will oxidize and not connect electrically as well as it once did. Soldering your rail joiners is always a good idea to help maintain good electrical flow. Otherwise, the only alternative would be to attach a drop-feed to every single piece of rail between two unsoldered joiners.
The choice should be obvious !
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
If you are concerned with true speed, below is one method.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~trains/rroperat.htm
Another method is to get a speedometer car.
Mark R. Soldering your rail joiners is always a good idea to help maintain good electrical flow. Otherwise, the only alternative would be to attach a drop-feed to every single piece of rail between two unsoldered joiners. The choice should be obvious ! Mark.
Soldering your rail joiners is always a good idea to help maintain good electrical flow. Otherwise, the only alternative would be to attach a drop-feed to every single piece of rail between two unsoldered joiners.
Alton Junction
Mark R. UNsoldered rail joiners are purely a mechanical connection. Being a mechanical connection, they will work well when everything is clean and new, but over time, that mechanical connection will oxidize and not connect electrically as well as it once did. Soldering your rail joiners is always a good idea to help maintain good electrical flow. Otherwise, the only alternative would be to attach a drop-feed to every single piece of rail between two unsoldered joiners. The choice should be obvious ! Mark.
I have gone one better
I have wire drops on each piece of 3 ft flex track - Soldered all Rail Joints
And put wire drops on all three ends of the turnouts!
WHY?
We all know we average modlers can't guarentee 100% perfect soldering and err on the side of too many wire drops - even if 10% are bad I still am over wired.
This is why one never hears me complaining about a wiring problem on my layout nor having poor running engines through turnouts, crossings and double slips.
But then there are those that believe that one wire drop on 4000 feet of track (an exergation) is enough and use only non soldered track jointers and expect things to work great!
You learn after a while to never take chances - unless we like redoing things over nad over - expecting different results!
BOB H - Clarion, PA