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Wire for connection from trucks to bodies

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  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Wire for connection from trucks to bodies
Posted by MisterBeasley on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 8:56 AM

I've got a set of five ancient Mantua streamliner passenger cars.  Three came in a "box of trains" from a yard sale when I was a young teen, and the other two were purchased more recently on eBay.  Two of the originals came with interior lighting, and I've added lights to the others.

The wires from the trucks to the body on the ones with original lighting seems to have a cloth weave coating.  I did mine with stranded wire.  Those original-wire cars have never been a problem, but two of the wires on my own have failed after only a couple of years of pretty limited service.

What kind of wire do you use for this?  Is that very flexible stuff available?  What's it called?

Thanks.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 10,582 posts
Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 9:02 AM

Mr. B,

A number of vendors offer special, small gauge extra flexible wire for this purpose. Typically, it's around 30 gauge. Several selections here, for instance: http://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm

But good wire for this may be closer than you think. The wire found in the typical computer mouse is excellent and very similar to that sold special for this purpose. That's where I get most of mine. It's easy to strip out and donor mice can usually be found around house or at something like the Goowill store. Doesn't matter if they work or not, just that they still have their tails.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Tampa, Florida
  • 1,481 posts
Posted by cedarwoodron on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 9:48 AM

One of the best inexpensive sources of small gauge twisted strand wire for engine and car lighting, as well as structures, is the 28 or 30 AWG ribbon cabling found in desktop computers. Go to someplace that recycles computers (metals recycling yards) or a Goodwill store and you can find lots of these cables where old computers are recycled. Just use a scissor to cut the connectors off each each end, then use a sharp hobby knife to separate the wires singly or in pairs, as needed. I usually use a pair, and color one wire with red marker to help in my wiring tasks. They are easy to fit into engine shell spaces and are generally more than long enough for most applications at the HO level.

Of course, you can go to a local computer store- such as Tiger Direct (the old CompUSA chain) and BUY new ones- but, go for the less expensive route of harvesting them from computers being trashed.

Cedarwoodron

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Western, MA
  • 8,571 posts
Posted by richg1998 on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 11:37 AM

Plastic coated #30 will be stiff. You want rubber coated #30.

Lots of computer ribbon cable is plastic coated. You want max flexibility to connect loco trucks.

 NWSL has #30, 7 strand and #30, 28 strand. The 28 strand is very flexible compared to 7 strand.

 Been a long time since I used mouse wire but it may be around 28 strand as it is very flexible.

 Rich

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Wednesday, June 4, 2014 4:25 PM

I've used wire from Miniatronics Incandescent Bulbs. There usually have more than you need, in some apps.

Frank

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