Hi!
I finally got the 4 TCS T1 decoders for my Stewart F7 ABBA locos (subject of previous threads). While I am not a newbie to decoder installations, this is my first hardwire. Thankfully, most of it is fairly straight-forward (even for me).
One area that I am unsure of, and that is the wiring of the LED headlight. These T1 decoders (#1484) have resistors installed so that is not an issue. The instructions indicate that the blue, white, and yellow wires may be used for light hook up. Obviously only two wires are needed.
The TCS website the blue and the white wires going to a "bulb", but I am unsure if this is what to use for an LED.
And then there is the issue of which decoder wire goes to which LED wire (+ / -).
Of course I can experiment, but I'm leery of messing up a decoder. Is that a possibility if you mix up "light wires"?
Hey, like always, your guidance is truly appreciated!
Thank you,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
The TCS web site indicates there are T1's and T1-LED, for both two and four functions. Which T1 do you have. If it is one of the LED types the web site description seems to indicate all of the lighting leads have resistors on board. The instruction sheet (for the two function decoder) is even more clear: "This decoder includes current limit resistors on both function outputs so there is no need for external resistors when using LED’s."
Good luck!
Mobilman44,
This should help You out:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Stewart/Stewart%20F3A%20Phase%20I/Stewart_F3A_I.html
Frank
Blue is '+' common, white is front headlight '-', and yellow is rear headlight '-'.
Have no fear, if you hook the LED up backwards it simply won't light. Just flip it around. No damage to the LED or decoder.
If you have the T1-LED, no resistors needed. If you have the plain T1- you do need resistors.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks folks! As I indicated, these decoders have resistors so that is not an issue.
You answered my question on the reason for the 3 wires (front/rear/common), and also what would happen if I mix light wires (the light won't light).
Looks like I have no more reasons to procrastinate..........
Thanks all!
Ohhhh, one last question....... The B units have lights wired in (one), and they are sort of buried. I don't see a reason for there to be a light, and suspect it was just a routine part of the mfg process. I say this because the B unit frames are identical (one "pointed" end) to the A unit frames.
Anyway, I see no reason to install an LED in them.
Am I correct with this, or ???
Nope, no reason to put lights in the B, unless you want to hang a marker on the back for a light engine move.
Thanks Randy, that's what I thought.
Ha, I always would rather ask than assume, for "assume" has gotten me in trouble more than once.
Also - won;t hurt the decoder if you leave the lights disconnected but accidently turn them on. Just make sure any loose wires are taped up so they don;t short and don't get caught in the mechanism. For wired decoders with more functions than I need, I usually cut the ones I don't need off short, but no so short that I couldn;t strip the end and attach a wire later. I'm always afraid if I cut the wire off flush with the connectors that later I'll need that output for something and then have to cut out and replace the entire harness. I don't know why I think this, my prototype never had extra lights of any sort, just a headlight and rear hedlight (if applicable). Kinda like my Kadee air hoses. I don;t use magnets to uncouple, so I don;t need an air hose poking from the coupler especially when my better cars have air hoses coming out of the brake piping in the proper spot. But I just can't bring myself to cut them off, especially after I went through a whole bunch and painted them, complete with a dab of silver on the end.
Hi again,
To update...... got the T1s installed in an A and a b unit, and both run beautifully. I finished of the B unit (shell easily goes on over the decoder), and only need to wire in the LED on the A unit.
In picking a DCC ID number for the consist, I quickly found out that my F7s were really F3s. In looking thru Dr. Priests "The Santa Fe Diesel", I found that most all F3s for the Santa Fe were passenger service. Fortunately, two consists were geared for freight (200 and 201) and I will call my consist 200, as it will be one heck of a freight puller.
Anyway, so far, so good.
OH, the locos really run nice. Between the Kato mechanisms and the TCS decoder, it should be a layout favorite.
Hi once again,
Got the decoders in all 4 units working perfectly, and began hooking up the LEDs on the A units. The metal light tubes were a bit hard to work with so as to prevent the LEDs from shorting. After 3 tries I got the right "spaghetti" to fit and got everything properly in place. WOW, my first LED installations!
Everything is back together, and the only thing left is installing those pesky couplers in the front of the A units.......
Thanks all for your help and guidance. I never could have done it without you all!
It there a way to tell if a T1 has the resistors for LEDs?
Andy Jackson
Bellflower CA
You can always download the T1 manual directly from the TCS website. Here's the link:
https://tcsdcc.com/sites/default/files/T1_0.pdf
It looks like the T1 does NOT have resistors. You'll need to install your own if you want to add LEDs...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
laj200 It there a way to tell if a T1 has the resistors for LEDs?
If it's a T1-LED:
Gary
Heat-shrink tubing over the LED leads ought to solve the problem of shorting out in a metal light tube. Many places sell it and there are a couple of size choices on the Miniatronics product displays.
Thread is 5 years old, not much to see folks, move along.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley