Could someone please help with some info on which decoder and speaker are needed to install sound in a Atlas U33C.
Hooty,
Suggest you contact someone like Tonys Train Exchange or other company that sells and installs them. That is what I did for my RS-3.
Good luck,
Richard
You could try Bruce Petrarca at Litchfield Station. He has a page to ask your questions. http://www.mrdccu.com/
Joe
Are these the older Atlas U33C models from around 15 years ago? I don't think sound is doable in those models without milling the frame.
I have an older U36C. I contacted Atlas and Jim Miller responded with the following:
...this loco does have (unless modified by a previous owner) an 8-pin socket for a DCC decoder on the lighting control PC board. The presence of this socket gives you two options
· Purchase a decoder that has a matching 8-pin plug (there are many choices here)
· Purchase a decoder that is designed to replace the Atlas lighting control PC board, such as (for non-sound) the NCE DA-SR or the TCS A4X.
If you want sound, you have the same two choices, but you must be even more careful to select a decoder that will fit in the available space. In addition, you will have to find some place to mount a speaker. Most likely, you will need to remove or cut down one of the weights to make space. Also, make sure that you purchase (or make yourself) an enclosure for the speaker. One very effective type of enclosure is the entire locomotive body. However, this technique will work ONLY if:
· There is an opening (or openings) for the sound from the FRONT ONLY of the speaker to get out
· The rest of the body is sealed completely so that the sounds from the front and rear of the speaker do not cancel each other out.
Locomotive sound systems are very much an individual preference. In the long run, you will most likely be happier with one of the full-featured sound decoders [ESU LokSound (Select), SoundTraxx Tsunami, or QSI Quantum Titan]. I will give you some information about one particular sound system (ESU LokSound Select) that I and a number of other employees at Atlas like very much, but your mileage may vary.
LokSound Select and its more powerful cousin LokSound V4.0 offer a number of advantages over certain other sound-decoders:
1. Very good low-speed motor control
2. No need to use a program track booster (e.g., PowerPax or PTB100) to read and write CVs on the program track
3. Small physical size, making it easier to fit in smaller locomotives
4. The ability to download new sound sets and/or updates to operational software (absolutely essential for manufacturers, useful for end users)
5. Excellent customer support for both individuals and manufacturers
6. When the proper speaker is used, very high quality sound and high maximum volume
I hope this helps (I have not begun the project yet). Jim Miller was quite helpful!
Soundtrax:
http://www.soundtraxx.com/choose/step3.php?t=ho&s=Atlas
Frank
A LokSound Select Direct is also an Atlas board replacement, but has better sound and motor control than a Tsunami, and is cheaper.
Plus an EMD 657 is not correct for a U33, which is a GE FDL 16. Soundtraxx does have the correct sound available, but yeah, Loksound has surpassed them in sound quality and motor control. Especially the horns. They have been steadily re-doing their North AMerican loco sounds with fresh new high quality recordings.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Just a note if you are planning on using a Soundtraxx GN1000 .... those are designed as soundboards for Athearn engines, and as such, the lighting outputs are regulated for the 1.5 volt bulbs Athearn uses and will not directly drive 12 volt bulbs or LEDs. There is a +14 volt pad on the board, but it appears to be hit or miss whether the lighting functions will correctly turn on/off when using that pad.
I too would highly recommend the Loksound Select Direct, but if you insist on using a Tsunami, go with the AT1000 board as the light outputs are 12 volt.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
john.pickles87 Hi Randy, The EMD was the only chip available at the club at the time for comparison and Tsunami’s are nearly £20 cheaper than ESU’s over here. I think H get’s the idea though and 828046 fits Be in touch. Pick.
You are obviously comparing the Loksound 4.0 decoders "over there" which no doubt are more expensive. The ESU Select decoders ARE cheaper, but they are a North American commodity. The shipping would probably negate any cost savings.
I opened up one of my 6 Atlas U33C locomotives today to check the decoder and speaker possibilities.
For those of us in the USA, a LokSound Select Direct would be a perfect replacement for the Atlas light board, but there is still a problem with fitting a speaker.
My initial thought is that the rear weight could be ground down to allow for an oval speaker to be mounted there, BUT there are no openings in the shell for the sound to escape; and the backup light would have to be eliminated.
If the back half of the rear weight were to be cut completely off, a speaker could be fit into the area above the rear truck, pointed downward so the sound could escape there -- but figuring out how to hold it away from the truck worm gear clip that has to swivel would be a challenge.
In this scenario. perhaps the speaker could be held to the top inside of the shell with double-sided tape.
Remove the whole weight. Speaker pointing down, sound out around the gear towers, reverse light across the top of the speaker enclosure.
Think that's how they did it on the Ken Bell RPM Clinics. And what I can get from looking at the pics of the insides on the TCS site.
I just finished installing a LokSound Select Direct into an Atlas U33C today (Tuesday, April 8th).
The Select Direct was a simple board replacement for the Atlas light board. I wound up cutting the rear weight in half and keeping the front half where it fastens with two screws, and put an oval speaker with enclosure into the top of the shell, facing down.
I eliminated the backup light, but was able to keep the number boards and light lenses in place by cutting off the inside part of the light guide. I fastened the speaker in place with double-sided foam tape.
Now that I've figured out how to do the first one, I have 5 more to go, eventually.