Ok, so here is my senario. I just built a small N scale switching layout using Atlas Code 55 track and turnouts, along with some Micro Engineering Code 55 Flextrack and Bridge Track. I have an NCE PowerCab DCC System to run my fleet. The track plan is based off of the Thin Branch layout, except the "main line" is double tracked to represent a PRR line. I have a #14AWG Buss line for my power with 13 pairs of Atlas Code 55 rail joiners/power feeders, which I believe are #18 or #20 AWG. Feeder are fastened to the Buss using Scotchlocks (suitcase connectors). I installed the feeders on everyside of my turnouts, and every other rail joint. All of my rail joints are soldered, with the exception of my bridges so I can remove them for working on scenery, if I ever get that far. (I want to get this running right before I go any farther.) The turnout frogs are powered through the aux contacts on my Tortiose Switch Motors.
Now, here is my issue. Almost every locomotive I try to run moves a little and then stops. If I touch it in anyway it trys to go again, but usually only a short distance, if any at all. I must add this is typically at slow speed. It works most of the time at higher speeds, but does occasionally happen then too. I also sometimes lose my headlights when this happens. I thought maybe my track is dirty already, even though it is all new (bought it in January). Cleaned it with a Bright Boy. Didn't help. This happens on turnouts, curves, and straights. I have my NCE Cab setup to display Amp draw, and when the loco stops, my amp draw goes to 0.0A, which leads me to believe I am somehow losing power completely to the loco. I know that some older locos are not code 55 compatible, but some of these locos are new models produced within the last 2 years and are supposed the be code 55 compatible. It is happening with almost every engine I have. Most of my fleet is Atlas, however I do have some Bachmann (not the cheap ones) and E-R Models. thought maybe it was a wheel flange spacing issue, so I re-gapped 3 of them, which were not even considered out of alignment with a NMRA gauge. It didn't help either. I have put my Voltmeter on my track and I am not seeing any kind of fluctuations in voltage. My wheelset on my locos are clean. I am an electrician by trade and I can't seem to figure this out. Can anyone offer me some insight? And thanks for reading through all this.
I only use the rail joiners for alignment. I know they are bad conductors and can cause issues, so that is why they are fluxed and soldered on both rail ends to make the electrical connection from rail to rail. The feeders are soldered to the bottoms of the rail joiners, so till all is said and done, If the rail joiners were to get "dirty, It wouldn't matter. The solder is what makes the connections. Also the way it works out is that there is a set of feeders on one end of every piece of track. Think of it this way: Straight, Joiners with feeders, another straight, Regular Rail joiners, another straight, Rail Joiners with feeders, without, with, without, ect. The longest spans on my layout without feeders is approx. 16"-18" and it is all one solid piece of flextrack each. I do thank you for your input David, but I highly doubt that is what is causing my problems.
Mine's wired the exact same way, second alyout now like that, NEVER a problem, even after paiting the rails (and yes I DID paint the joiners too, bright spots every 3 feet or so look really silly).
I'm going to guess the suitcase connectors aren't making good contact. The wire on the Atlas joiners is like #22, maybe smaller, though the insulation may make it seem like it is heavier wire. Suitcase connectors of a given size work only for the wire sizes they list, using a different size than recommended for the given connector is just asking for trouble. I didn;t spend high dollars on the Atlas terminal joiners - for the price of one pack of those I cna buy a whole pack of regular joiners and solder my own wires. I also soldered my feeders to the bus.
Since your rail joints are soldered, try this: take apiece of wire and connect it to the track terminals from PowerCab. strip the other ends and use some clip leads to connect the wires to the rail - right on the rail, not via the bus and feeder. See how things operate. If they run better, it is almost certainly the suitcase connectors.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Waynes_PRR...Almost every locomotive I try to run moves a little and then stops. If I touch it in anyway it trys to go again, but usually only a short distance, if any at all. I must add this is typically at slow speed. It works most of the time at higher speeds, but does occasionally happen then too...
Waynes_PRR...I also sometimes lose my headlights when this happens...
I will give that a try Randy. I did use the Red suitcase connectors to make the joint to the Buss/Feeder connection. I know they are a little small for the buss, but I used them figuring they should cut into the feeders. I'll let you know what happens. Thanx.
Also check what Robert said. With n scale locos it seems to be pretty common that unless things are just right, the motor strips don't make proper contact witht he decoder, especially in cases where the decoder board itself is thinner pc board material than the factory light board. For some they even recommend putting a blob od solder on the motor pads to raise the contact surface. Also for those that tell you to cover certain places with tape - do NOT skip that step, as pressure in the right (or that would be wrong) place will cause a short and fry the decoder if you don't apply the tape.
Well Robert, the ones that run fine are are my Sharknose A-B consist and my F-7 A-B consist which are wired decoders, not drop-in's, however, my SD-35 also runs great, which has a drop in sound decoder. I also have a 2-8-0 Consolidation which has a wired decoder that falls into the problem group. I have ran ito the issue you propsed in my past experiance. Hence every split frame loco I get, whether it comes equiped, or I do the install, I have learened to add a little solder to the "four corners" and to the motor connection pads. Maybe I really do have the problem with the consists and just don't realize it due to one stops but a slight nudge or pull from the other unit keeps it going, and the SD-35 has a capacitor on the board for "dirty track" operation which may allow it it get through the problem area unscathed.
As far as the headlight, it is when it stops usually, but I have had it go out while the engine was still moving. When it goes out during the engine stall, once I get the loco moving again, I have to turn the headlight function of and that back on on my throttle in order to acctually get the headlight to come back on.
Sorry Randy. I tried going straight out of the NCE panel, straight to the track with alligator leads and completely unplugged the buss wires. No luck. Engines still stalling out at low speeds. I had a little hope at first with a C-625 Alco, but after a pass or two it started acting up. My NW-2 won't move more than an inch, and my RS-3 also gave me hope, but once I dropped the speed down to 12 or lower, it stalled out too. I didn't try any of my other engines. The only things that seems to be a common factor is the Atlas Code 55 track and that it seems to happen on the lower speed steps. Itried e-mailing NCE Customer Support, but it wont submit my emails through their website. I also submitted my original post to the Information Desk of Model Railroder. Jim Heidinger replyed back wih the only suggestion of contacting NCE. Wish I could! I will have to keep trying I guess.
It sounds like you have everything wire right, although I don't like the suitcase connectors either. Two problems that I have seen on many layouts are:
1) The metal rails are too dry after repeated cleaning. I also find that a bright boy can leave some grit on the rails. So this is what I do: After the bright boy cleaning, I wipe the rails with my finger to remove any grit. Next, I spray a little WD-40 on my finger and wipe the rails again. This adds some lubrication to the metal which I have found to improve wheel to rail conductivity.
2) The second thing that I have run into that can be a problem is that the point rails on some turnouts still provide some power routing through the turnout. If the contact point between the point rail and stock rail is dirty, no power conduction. To solve this, I take a business card and spray one end of it with WD-40 and then run it between the point rail and stock rail of the turnouts while the points are closed. Again, this provides a small amount of lubrication that improves conductivity and cleans the rails at the area where they make contact with each other.
Another problem with N Scale locomotives are they are light, compared to other scales. Because of that, the trackwork has to be as smooth as possible on top of the rails. I use a file and smooth the top of the track as best that I can without deforming it. If there is too much difference, I will resolder that rail joint and try to realign it while the iron is still on it and hold it until it cools. I have also found that locomotives that have the phosphor bronze wipers that contact the nubs on the power trucks are more forgiving on rough trackwork than any other type of pick up.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Alright, I tryed another light cleaning using a pink eraser and bright boy. I didn't have any WD-40, but I used 3-in-1. It didn't help, as a matter of fact, it made it worse in my opinion. I will say that my railheads are very smooth. I have built multiple N scale layout in the past and have never had track work this smooth, nor had these issues either. Besides, these stall outs will happen in the middle of a long piece of flextack just as much as at a turnout, or a rail joint area, and it is not always in the same spots. It happens everywhere on the layout. Yet, if I put the engines on my Tidy Track and set it on the railheads for power, they will run just fine. I am greatful for the insight you offered, but it just hasn't helped my issues.
By the way, for everyone, I finally got an e-mail into NCE, but haven't heard anything back yet.