Building Dayton & Northern RR plan 56 from 101 Track Plans by Linn Wescott. Hopefully you can find the layout. Want to wire for dcc. Do I need any blocks and where to place feeders based on looking at the plan? Will add switch at right end to run track to workbench and for a programming track.
1arfarf3 Building Dayton & Northern RR plan 56 from 101 Track Plans by Linn Wescott. Hopefully you can find the layout. Want to wire for dcc. Do I need any blocks and where to place feeders based on looking at the plan? Will add switch at right end to run track to workbench and for a programming track.
Adding blocks is up to you. De3ends whether you want signalling etc.
Re feeders, rule of thumb is run pair of bus wires under layout then from power bus install power feeders to every piece of track, Yes every piece of track including turnouts.
It is a bit of extra work but in the long run will save a lot of frustration and no voltage drop any where.
Never rely on track joiners to carry current over a period of time. Not even wires soldered to track joiners.
Cheers
Ian
1arfarf3,
Take some time out and review this site, very helpful info with diagrams, that should help you with many of your questions, that you are sure to have. You really don't have blocks in DCC, but you could have power districts, which will make it easier to find wiring problems. Check the site out:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/intro2dcc.htm
Frank
Welcome aboard!
I try to make sure I've got a pair of feeders going to at least every other piece of track. So, if you're using 3-foot sections of flex track, that's about every 6 feet. If you're using 9-inch sectional track, put feeders every 18 inches.
There are 2 primary reasons for feeders. First, rail joiners get loose over time, and are not solid and reliable enough for power. Second, our nickel-silver rails are a relatively poor conductor, compared to the copper we usually use for bus wires, so relying on rail to carry power over long distances will result in voltage loss.
As a "good wiring practice," start your track wiring right. Select 2 colors (black and red, for instance) and use them for your wiring bus. Get the same colors and use them for feeders, so you'll always know beneath the layout what should be connected to what. To make your life easier, install your track bus right after your benchwork, before you put down any sub-roadbed material. It's just easier. While you're at it, install your DCC control bus if you plan to have multiple jacks around the fascia, and put in another bus or two for structure lighting, streetlights and such.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Before you spend considerable time and effort feeding every rail or nearly every one, consider your particular layout and construction materials and methods. Remember that except for locations that will be inaccessible, you can always add feeders if over time the layout develops a need for more. It's easy to drill a small hole next to a rail, drop a feeder and attach it to the bus and rail. You can also solder joiners later if they prove to loosen or otherwise lose electrical conductivity (or add jumpers between rail ends). Basically, I installed feeders to sections of track without power because of rail gaps at frogs of certain power-routing turnouts. Probably the longest total run of track without a feeder is about 12'.
I use Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 flex and turnouts. I also use their track joiners which are a much tighter fit than the typical Atlas joiners. I also treated each end of rail with No-Ox before joining. Another factor is the layout environment. Is it subject to signifcant swings in temperature and humidity? Although my layout room has a controlled environment, I painted all the wood benchwork, the plywood and Homasote sheets that comprise the bench top (all sides and edges) and the Homabed roadbed to minimize moisture absorption.
The layout voltage is uniform throughout. I cannot claim 20 years' successful experience, but the layout is fully operational for over 19 months without a power problem. Admittedly, the track is not yet ballasted or painted. So far so good; I shall see how it performs over a longer time. However, as I said before, I can always add feeders and/or solder joiners.
Dante
My around the room layout is built in 8 foot modules. Each module has one set of feeders unless it has a special need, like signaling.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
zstripe's recommendation is a good one. But, as I recall there is another reason for power districts and that is because there is a maximum length of bus before you get unaccceptable voltage drop, which as I recall is all explained in the wiring web site. That is a good size layout, IMO, so power districts may be in order.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
1arfarf3Building Dayton & Northern RR plan 56 from 101 Track Plans by Linn Wescott. Want to wire for dcc. Do I need any blocks
and where to place feeders based on looking at the plan?
But ignoring the plans suggestions this is probably over kill, but I would run a bus under the loop both directions from where ever you put the DCC control unit. I would put a feeders on the inside main line tracks right at the points of the turnouts for the crossovers. That would be one right near where it says Dayton, and the other right near the end of Richmond. I would put feeders on the outside main right beside them.
I would put feeders near Muncie, and another set on the mains just out from the turntable (New Castle ish). I would put a pair, one on each main, near the coal yard (about a the end where it says 32" radius), and then a set on each mainline near the eaton curved passenger platform. Fiinally I would put a set of feeders on that extra inside track (the 28" radius one) 1/2 way through the curve - across from the freight station.
If you are using hot frog turnouts that need to be gapped you might need a few more. Specifically right next to the bulk oil plan on the very inside curve. With hot frogs, those will feed that entire industrial area except the switch back, which would then need its own set.
Follow Lansa's advise and you will have no problems. I have posted similar to his suggestion many times when this type question has arisen. Treat each a every switch to a full set of feeders. Feed the center of every 3 foot section of flex track Treat all rail joiners as mere rail aligners and not as useful electrical connections. By doing the foregoing you will never have a loco more than 18" from a solid copper feeder connection. It's that simple.
Richard
If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed