I am in the process of building a new layout, I just finished tearing down my old layout, or I should say recycling my previous layout. In the past I used 18G Stranded wire for my feeders, I can't find any at Home Depot or Lowes, Radio Shack has some but it would cost me a fortune to purchase it from them and in limited quantities, also where is the best place to purchase suit case connectors, the guy at Home Depot though I was talking about luggage and told me they didn't carry suitcases, to try a department store. LOL
Home Depot has 14 AWG stranded wire that you can buy by the foot which would be good for your power buss in DC or DCC. You can use 20-22 AWG wire for the feeders from the buss to the rails. I usually get my feeder wire in 100' spools from allelectronics.com. I think you could also get the 18 AWG from them on 100' spools for $12 and change.. I went to home depot many years ago to buy a countersinking drill bit. The associate told me to go to the kitchen and bath department.
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ROAR
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Lamp cord is 18 gauge. Cheaper by the foot, split it in two and you get twice as much wire for the price. I bought a bunch of black and white lamp cord, split them in two and used that for all my drop feeds.
Unless you have a small layout, 18 gauge might be a little light for your buss though - you should go to 14 gauge for your buss run.
Mark.
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18G is for my feeders, not my buss
18 AWG wire for rail feeders may be overkill.
Try an auto parts store.
it's kinda a standard wire size for auto wiring
Trainmedic
I used 16 gauge stranded buss wire from Lowes for my moderate lengths (less than 25'). My feeder wire was 22 AWG solid (which I preferred for soldering to rail) from Hobby Engineering (great selection of colors, stranded, solid, etc). My suitcase connectors I found at Mouser Electronics, 3M versions at reasonable price.
On suitcase connectors, one wants quality if using these (some steer clear of all of them) and 3M ScotchLok are well regarded by those who use them. I made the mistake of looking on EBay and a vendor sold "Scotch-Lok" that were NOT 3M, , not ScotchLok but same spelling with a hyphen, and inferior design (one tooth versus two at the connector). Kinda like there's the real Kleenex and then there's "kleenex". The price was too good to be true (shoulda known). Also, you may know the official tool is quite expensive. I got a good RoboGrip set at Sears for $25 that included a large, staight-jawed version (you want both features, in my opinion) plus a small, curved version (maybe useful for other things. With practice, you can feel confident in these connections, IMHO.
In the area of other suppiles, I used All Electronics (mentioned above) for DPDT turnout switches, Bi-color control panel LEDs and inserts (clip holders), terminal strips and 24AWG 2-conductor "auto zip cord" for tortoise power wiring.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I use 18 guage solid thermostat wire available at the big box stores in 50 and 100 foot roles. I like it also as being easier to solder especially if you flatten the track end before soldering.
Walmart sells 18ga speaker wire.
Jim
try ebay. You'll have more choices, lengths and colors.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
GMl Enterprises (www.thegmlenterprises.com) is an excellent source of moderately priced model rail oriented wire. I'll chime in with others that 18gauge is overkill for track feeders but likely underkill for a main bus.
I prefer solid wire for the feeders, since you can get it to lay down along the rail when soldering, keeping the flangeways clear and leaving no possible free strands which can cause wierd unexplained shorts later on. HD has a loosely twisted pair #20 'alarm wire' which is what I use for my feeders the two conductors have red and white insulation, which matches the red and white of my track bus. Which is why I never used the 'beeper box" I made to detect shorts and crossed feeders as each one is attached - I'm always hooking the red wire to the red wire and the white to the white.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Like Randy, I prefer solid hook-up wire for track feeders. It is much easier to form and solder. Stranded wire can be springy.
If you are looking for 18 ga or 22 ga stranded wire, Radio Shack carries them in 3 spool blister packs. The colors are Red, Green and Black.
Jon
look for a elect. supply house they will carry what ever you want or get it for you. You can also look for electronic supply house in phone book. The only trouble with supply houses is your going to pay they don't carry 50' rolls it's more like 500' if your doing a lot of wireing thats the way to go. radio shack is selling phones and not much else.
Hope this will help
Kelly523 radio shack is selling phones and not much else. Hope this will help
radio shack is selling phones and not much else.
I am not a big fan of Radio Shack anymore myself, but the stores here in Conway still carry hobby project supplies, and in a pinch, I can get what I need most of the time. I just bought 3 spools of stranded 18 ga wire and 3 spools of 22 ga stranded wire in 2 blister packs last week. If you are looking for 50' rolls of wire you won't find it here.
If Radio Shack doesn't have it on the shelf, I would go elsewhere. They used to order it to the store without charging for shipping. Not any more.
I use mail order houses like Newark, Mouser, Digikey and Jameco most of the time. Allied is still around, too, but I haven't used them in years.
I have been buying my 18 AWG stranded wire from All Spectrum Electronics (www.allspectrum.com) in 100' rolls for $11.13 plus S&H. They also carry 16 AWG stranded wire in 100' rolls for $16.49 and 22 AWG solid wire in 100' rolls for $6.05. They have a number of different colors available. Check out their website for other wire gauges that they carry. If you need a large amount of wire it's cheaper than at Radio Shack, assuming Radio Shack even has it.
Bob
retsignalmtr18 AWG wire for rail feeders may be overkill.
I used 18AWG for my feeders and bus. but I did attach only to the rail joiners. For my first layout, I had 3 loops on a 4x8, 1 feeder, 18AWG, for the each loop(dc power). Personally if your building a layout, It's usually custom to you (unless you buy it from a company such as Smart inc), so why can't you use as heavy wire as you want.
As far as looking for it in stores, check your local audio stores because that where I found mine. Its usually used for mounting speakers in ceiling or outside.
suitcase conectors; harbor frieght very reasonable price,work well. the company is on line too.
dont limit your resorse outlets ie: tractor supply co. ,northern tool, ace, all online
Besides All Spectrum Electronics, Mouser and Digi-Key sell this type of wire online. FWIW, I use 14 AWG solid for my power bus, IDC (suitcase connectors) w/18 AWG stranded going to a terminal strip, then 20 AWG stranded for my track feeders.
Tom
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