I took apart my BLI 2-10-4 for a good clean and lube and to see if I could figure out why the Headlight stopped working. Couldn't see anything obvious as far as the headlight goes so put the boiler back on and proceeded to clean the wheels on the tender.
I took the wheels out of the trucks on the tender one at a time to really give them a good clean. I was careful to put them back the same way except on one I got distracted and possibly turned it around. I notice the two wheels towards the centre of the tender seem to be insulated in the middle of the axle, while the ones on the end don't.
I put every thing back together and it shorts the layout and there is a small click coming from the loco. So did I fry a decoder? Did I do something wrong as far as putting the wheels back in the trucks on the tender or did I screw something up in the Loco when I took off the boiler. I have taken it apart before and all has been well upon its return to the rails. But I sure must have messed up this time.
All suggestions welcome.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Noooo, say it ain't so.
I have that exact loco, road name and all, and I love it.
I don't know if you fried the decoder or not.
Take the wheels off that one truck and try it.
Then try a reset to factory defaults.
Keep us posted.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain Take the wheels off that one truck and try it. Rich
I went down and too a real close look at my 2-10-4.
At first, I concluded that all the tender wheels were mounted the same way.
But as I look closer, it does appear that each wheelset has an insulated wheel on one side.
As you look at the loco from behind the tender, the wheels on the forward truck are insulated on the left side and the wheels on the rear truck are insulated on the right side. Or, so it appears.
This happens a lot. I'm sure it's fine. Remove the engine and put the tender on the tracks by itself. Follow the alignment suggested by Rich on his
Is this the PRR J1 2-10-4 or the C&O T-1 2-10-4? (Really the same beast with some mods)
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Brent says C&O in the title, so it's got to be the T1.
Paragon or Blueline?
YIPEEEEEE!!!!!!!
Thank you, Thank you. Thank you, Rich and Don.
I turned one wheel set around after Rich told me about the insulator position on the axles. There was still a short, but I determined the axle wipers were off and once I straightened those out, all was well.
Those are pretty slim tolerances on those axle wipers. I don't see why they couldn't make them just a little further apart so they left more space on either side of the insulator.
Now to get the headlight working. Thanks again guy's, you're the best.
Brent, that is certainly good news. Glad to hear that the decoder is OK.
Let us know what you find out on the headlight. I have several BLI steamers, but I have yet to have a headlight go out. I assume that it is an incandescent bulb, but I cannot say for sure. I also wonder whether it is protected by a resistor. You might call Customer Service at BLI just to be sure.
Incidentally, is your steamer a Paragon or Blueline? Mine is the older Paragon. Great loco.
Hi Rich.
Mine is also a Paragon. Talk about a work horse! It can haul my eleven Rapido coaches up and over my Rocky Mountains without even breaking a sweat.
As far as the headlight goes, the # boards light up, but no headlight, go figure.
Thanks again.
The T1's are some of my favorites on my layout. I have 4 total. They are heavily weighted, and have excellent traction. I pulled 100, 55 Ton USRA coal cars before.with one.
DigitalGriffin The T1's are some of my favorites on my layout. I have 4 total. They are heavily weighted, and have excellent traction. I pulled 100, 55 Ton USRA coal cars before.with one.
Heavily weighted !
That is the key. I think that my BLI C&O #3001 is the heaviest of my steam locos.