What kind of lighted on/off switch can I install into the facia board. I have the Digitrax super empire builder under the bench work. Also how should I wire this ? Would you just cut the power cord?
No. There is a sequence to turn off the power. On your DT40XX throttle, push the - button, then turn off the DB150 power switch, then turn off the power to the DB150 . Joe.
Thanks. I do know the thottle shut off. I mean instead of unplugging the db150 from the wall outlet I would like to shut the power off by a toggle switch.
A power strip. I used one on mine, and then I mounted the power strip on the facia.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Like Michael, I use a power strip fastened to my fascia. Everything is plugged into that so I can shut off power in one fell swoop.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I hooked up an X10 appliance module in front of my power strip (and another in front of the power strip at my workbench) with one fo the older 'keyfob' (it's a little too big to actually use as a keyfob, but I had it laying around and it all still works) controller I leave on the benchwork by the door. Thus I can turn things on when I go in the room, and shut them off when I leave (I also have one of the sticky wallplate switches - basically the same controller made up to look like a wall switch that you just stick on the wall) I could use too, just never got around to setting it up.
Since accessing a power strip would entail crawling under the layout, or under the workbench, I found this to be much more convenient.
Now, if I just knew who made and where I can get another one, on my previous layout I had a power strip that was designed to be built in to a certain type of workstation furniture. It had a short cord into the base unit with the surge and EMI protection, and then a long cord ending in a lighted rocker switch. The switch had a mounting flang to attach it to the desk it was meant for, but that was handy to attach it to my layout fascia, so I had just what the OP is looking for, a lighted switch to turn everything on and off. I've never seen them since, I got it in a box of junk we were throwing out at work.
This is almost like it, definitely the same functionality: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ISOBAR8RM-Isobar-Protector/dp/B00005122S
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Like Michael and Tom, I have my Digitrax system plugged into a power strip mounted to the front of my benchwork. Makes it easy to turn off everything powered on my layout.
I have my Digitrax Empire builder plugged into a power strip along with the UR91 power supply. The wall wart for my signals is also in there. The power strip is plugged into a recepticle that is controlled by a wall switch so when I leave the room I can shut it all off along with the lights with one switch.
Randy: Using a keyfob to turn on and off your layout has to be one of the coolest things I've read about in a long time! Awesome and inspiring! :)
Dave Loman
My site: The Rusty Spike
"It's a penny for your thoughts, but you have to put your 2 cents in.... hey, someone's making a penny!"
That's actually pretty lightweight, I USED to control half the lights in my house with that stuff, both manually and through my computer, and could even access it over the internet.
It all started because my old house had a spotlight for the back yard, but the switch for it was up in the bedroom, not downstairs by the patio door. I replaced the wall switch with an X10 one, and had a controller downstairs. We also had candles in all the front windows, those I had set up with the computer to automatically turn on when it for dark, instead of having to go around to multiple rooms upstairs and down turning them on.
There's newer stuff that is much more reliable, but it costs a lot more. X10 can be unreliable, and the components aren't of any great quality, but it's so cheap, you just buy extras, so when a module dies you just swap it out with a new one.
rrinker That's actually pretty lightweight, I USED to control half the lights in my house with that stuff, both manually and through my computer, and could even access it over the internet.
I also had a bunch of X10 stuff. IIRC, the "starter kit" came with an IBM Aptiva computer I bought, and I added on to it until I was able to control all the lights in the house. Then I set up a computer routine to mimic the normal pattern of lights going on and off. It was different for each day of the week, so not like a bunch of timers following the same pattern every day. When we'd go on vacation, the computer would wake up as appropriate to play back that routine to make it appear as if we were home. I still use the key fob, but for Christmas lights and not my layout.
MRR relevant content:
JMRI has built-in X10 and Insteon control capability, so you can have your layout room lighting tied to your fast clock or other layout events, etc
I have system wired to the transformer so I just flip the switch on the transformer(20amp). For the UR90,91,turntable,computer, turnout power supply, etc they are powered through a separate protective power strip in one of the control boards. It takes a couple minutes to get everything powered up or down, particularly due to computer.
Richard
If ever I get to finish off my own layout room, the whole room WILL be shut down by a switch at the door, it is my policy to NEVER leave anything on in the room when I'm not there, both from a money perspective and a safety one. My X10 method isn;t foolproof, but since I can't run new electrical wiring here, it's my best bet. If everything gets turned off when you leave the room, even if you forgot to unplug the soldering iron, it will be shut off. Never wuite understood why someone would leave their layout powered on when not there - and keeping the batteries alive in a radio DCC throttle is not an excuse in my book.
As for layout lighting - I do have this idea to use multiple LED lighting strands with dimmers to be able to do the full sunrise through modday to sunset to moonlit night cycle. X10 really isn't suitable, it's too unreliable (sudden bright sun at midnight..oops) plus the dimmers have a major problem - if they are off, and you set them to say 20%, they first go to full on then ramp down. Insteon and others don't have this problem, but it costs a lot more. But, you do get what you pay for. The LED strings usually have their own dimmers/color controllers anyway, which will need some other interface. I have plenty of time to experiment along these lines, by the time I get there, there will probbaly be others with well-publicized implementations of this, plus the cost of the LED strips keeps going down.