In a fit of overzealousness I took it upon myself to make a frame brace for a couple of my locos, who's acrylic frames had cracked. Good idea, bad follow through. In the haste of my overzealousness, I forgot to put the motors away, and ended up with brass filings EVERYWHERE.
One of the units had a fried decoder on it anyway was able to pull the decoder and DCed a fix to the motors (I blew them out and applied a half throttle from a DC power pack, burned the shorts out.). The other still has a functioning decoder on it and I am of the mind that I would like to keep it rather than replace, resolder, reprogram, etc.
Is it possible to give the motors a bath in some solution, then canned air dry it, add rinse repeat, till the unit is working again? If so, what's the best solution?
Focus you attention on the motor's commutator if you have access to it. This is the part where the brushes touch bronze pads. In the Spaces between the bronze pads, use an Xacto knife to clean the area of any brass filings lodged into the bronze. Also be sure to clean the thoroughly with a brush to remove any brass possible. Compressed air would work better then duster. Neither work as good as a good old fashioned brush.
Of course, you are going to have to get rid of all of the filings as they may find a way get back into the commutator and short the pads out. Some disassembly may be required.
Not sure if there are any modern chemicals that would work, especially with there being so much plastic in even the motors these days. Back in the day, there was an electrical cleaner you could literaly dunk the entire chassis in (after removing any plastic parts - since it ate palstic). It was even a non-conductor, so you coudl actually power up the motor while it was submerged!
I'm sure someone discovered that drinkign a gallon of it woudl cause you to die a horrible death and so it was banned, but it wouldn't be suitable with plastic parts in the motors today anyway. Blowing it out with air is probably the best option. Being brass chips they shouldn't stick to the magnet. Don't disassemble the motor if you don;t have to, it weakens the field amgnets. Canned air like a computer duster is probably better than a compressor unless you have a moisture trap and oil seperator (or it's an oilless compressor). Remove any electronics more complictaed than directional diodes if using an air compressor - lots of static builds up.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I find that the canned air like duster doesn't have nearly enough pressure to get this kind of job done. Even compressed air leave some to be desired. The same problem with various chemicals. Sometimes, you can't beat an old fashioned brush for cleaning. You can't really get everywhere as good as you'l like, so do what you can.
You may want to use so CRC brand "QD Contact Cleaner, it comes in an arosol can, dries quick, leaves no residue and is plastic safe. I usually get mine a Home Depot (lowes doesn't carry it)
Karl
NCE über alles!
Advance Auto Parts carries the same product. About 7 bucks a can.