Hi, I recently bought one of the Walthers 90' turntables. I am running DCC and connected DCC to both the controller and obviously to the bridge track.
It worked for a short while. Walthers has indicated that I need to send the bridge and controler back to them.
As this turntable also runs with DC
I wondered if anyone on this forum is running the controler with a DC transformer and uses DCC for the track.
How well does the controller command the turntable?
I have no DC transformer at the moment, so if it runs on DC well I will borrow a transformer and see if the controler will workd with DC before I send the unit in.
Am very hesitant about sending the turntable back to Walters, last time I send an item in I had to wait a very long time before it was returned.
The turntable will rotate under DCC, however I can not lock in programed positions as it is capable of.
Since you idicate it won;t store positions from DCC, what has probably failed are the controller electronics, not the DCC interface portion, so changing to DC for the bridge rotation and electronic power probably won't fix this. Under DC, you use the control panel buttons to store positions and then make the bridge rotate to one of them. As long as you keep the pit and rail free of debris liek loose ballast, and keep the wipers clean, it works pretty well.
I really think that instead of all those wipers to transfer power and control signals, they should have used a multiconductor cable. With a plug if you want to make the bridge removeable. The only downside here woudl be you couldn;t ALWAYS rotate int he same direction, hundreds and hundreds of times - eventurally the cable would get too twisted. But I think it would greatly improve the reliability, since the whole thing is more or less designed like a loco - the drive and all electronics are in the bridge itself, and it just rides on the 'rails' doing commands. And possibly allow a bit more clearance between the bottom of the bridge and the pit. Not jack it up unrealistically, but a SLIGHT boost would mean it wouldn't get jammed from every little grain of ballast. The wire idea, I think can be fairly easily accomplished. Raising the bridge, or lowering the pit, would be a major mechanical undertaking. Naturally thiswould void any warranty.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I am confused as to what you did and what went wrong.
Are you saying that you powered the controller with DCC and that it worked for awhile and then failed?
What power source did the instructions call for? Was a DC power source recommended for the controller and DCC for the bridge track?
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain I am confused as to what you did and what went wrong. Are you saying that you powered the controller with DCC and that it worked for awhile and then failed? What power source did the instructions call for? Was a DC power source recommended for the controller and DCC for the bridge track? Rich
Yes, the turntable worked for a while, had a short and now I am having problems with the controller. I can still move the turntable with the arrows, Not that hard to line up the tracks by sight and the turntable moves slow enough that I can still use it. however can not pre-set the tracks.
The new turntables work with either dc or dcc systems.
Wiring diagrams show either DCC or AC power for the controller.
Don, it is off topic, but I have left you a couple of conversation replies. Have you seen them?
Crandell
rrinker I really think that instead of all those wipers to transfer power and control signals, they should have used a multiconductor cable. With a plug if you want to make the bridge removeable. The only downside here woudl be you couldn;t ALWAYS rotate int he same direction, hundreds and hundreds of times - eventurally the cable would get too twisted.
I really think that instead of all those wipers to transfer power and control signals, they should have used a multiconductor cable. With a plug if you want to make the bridge removeable. The only downside here woudl be you couldn;t ALWAYS rotate int he same direction, hundreds and hundreds of times - eventurally the cable would get too twisted.
If the cable would eventually get too twisted, there is no way that the turntable could be marketed with a multiconductor cable. Can you imagine the problem Walthers would face with user complaints?
don7 richhotrain: I am confused as to what you did and what went wrong. Are you saying that you powered the controller with DCC and that it worked for awhile and then failed? What power source did the instructions call for? Was a DC power source recommended for the controller and DCC for the bridge track? Rich Yes, the turntable worked for a while, had a short and now I am having problems with the controller. I can still move the turntable with the arrows, Not that hard to line up the tracks by sight and the turntable moves slow enough that I can still use it. however can not pre-set the tracks. The new turntables work with either dc or dcc systems. Wiring diagrams show either DCC or AC power for the controller.
richhotrain: I am confused as to what you did and what went wrong. Are you saying that you powered the controller with DCC and that it worked for awhile and then failed? What power source did the instructions call for? Was a DC power source recommended for the controller and DCC for the bridge track? Rich
If the wiring diagrams show either DCC or AC power for the controller, but not DC power, would DC work for the controller?
Also, what caused the short after the turntable worked for a while? I would gather that whatever caused the short was responsible for screwing up the electronics that pre-set the track positions. You probably have no choice but to return the bridge track to Walthers for repair or replacement.
selector Don, it is off topic, but I have left you a couple of conversation replies. Have you seen them? Crandell
I did not check I was only aware of your first note. Again, thanks for the advice.
When I tried the AC power to the controller, the controller booted at the very beginning of the sequence, however, when when the first order was given to calibrate, the unit just keeps turning and will not stop in postion 1 which has been pre-programed
When tried on DCC power, the unit does not boot up from the start, reset does not work.
Walthers ought to replace the electronics for you.
Sounds like it was screwed up right out of the box.
Talked to a Walther's service technician today and he advised me to send the bridge and controller in for repair/replacement. He also mentioned that the spare parts needed to fix the unit are not expected until the second week of November.
I advised him that as I can turn the bridge easily and stop the bridge where I want it to line up, so it is not totally useless. Asked him if I could return the items just before the spare parts arrive before so that I can at lease use the roundhouse portion of the layout. He was fine with my request.
That sounds like a reasonable compromise to me.
If I were you, I would write a letter or send an email to Walthers Customer Service confirming that conversation and request that they hold a replacement bridge and controller aside.
My concern would be that since only the full kit is being shipped, all of the units may be accounted for by pre-orders.
I'm confused. One section of the installation instructions (upper right corner of 2nd page) it says "...the drive works best at 15 volts AC or DC...". In the section on wiring (bottom of 2nd page) it says that terminals U & V are to be connected to the AC terminals on power pack.
In the programming section (lower half of 3rd page) the instructions begin "...plug in the power pack. With power pack turned off, press the SET and ZERO buttong down at the same time. Now turn on power pack..."
Roger Johnson
Randy, I think the multiconductor cable idea has real merit. I have been thinking of different solutions to the dead zone in the turntable that shuts down the sound when the table rotates through it. If I used a cable in combination with an AR that should work. Since the turntable doesn't turn the same direction every time, the cable should stay unwound for a very long time. Thanks for the food for thought, I will try it out when my warranty is up.
Philip
Yes, plugging and unplugging the wall-wart would be the saeme. You might need some help to do it all though. The idea is that you are holding down the two buttons while you turn on the power to the electronics, this triggers some sort of a reset. The idea of holdign down a button or two when turning power on for reset is fairly common, and keeps it from ever happenign accidently by pressing two buttons while the pwoer is on. It only does the reset if the buttons are already pressed when the electronics initialize whent he power comes on. I suspect that reset procedure erases any set positions and so forth, so it's definitely somethign you'd not want to have happen by accident once you get everything set up.
Randy,
Do you know whether the turntable rotation can be powered with either AC or DC or with AC only?
rrinker I really think that instead of all those wipers to transfer power and control signals, they should have used a multiconductor cable. With a plug if you want to make the bridge removeable.
I really think that instead of all those wipers to transfer power and control signals, they should have used a multiconductor cable. With a plug if you want to make the bridge removeable.
I was always a fan of the phono plug
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Except 3, maybe 4 conductors is the most in a phone plug (phono plug is the RCA style connector, 2 conductors only, ever, and don't spin very easily). On an ordinary turntable witht he movment external to the bridge, this is a great solution for bridge track power, fiarly robust, shielded from dirt, and easy to disconnect for servicing. But since the Walthers turntable ahs all the electronics and bridge drive motor in the bridge, they need more wires.
Now, if the whole thing was truly DCC... hmm. That's another way to 'fix' it. 2 wires to the bridge - DCC. COnenct to the bridge rails for track pwoer as well as a decoder and motor to turn the bridge. You'd give up a lot of the indexing stuff, but for a turntable close to the edge of the layout, there's really no need to have it indexed, you cna just drive it like the real thing and line it by eye.
Edit: did find there are 5 conductor versions of the 3.5mm plug avialable, but those are alittle small for HO and larger scales. The more typical 1/4" connector is generally available with no more than 4 conductors, sleeve, 2 rings, and tip. There's a military connector liek this as well, used in aircraft. 4 conductor, but shorter plug.