Hey, first let me start by saying thank you for your read or reply.
Second let me say I am a technician and software developer by day so I try to give as much details as I can for maximum help in return so forgive me for the long post, but I hope someone with a much more array of knowledge can solve my issue’s :)
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Third I am new to posting to the forum here and its late so forgive me admins if I broke any rules on posting :)
Specifications I am working with:
DCC System: MRC Prodigy Express DCC System
Size of layout: 10ft x 4ft – 2 main lines, small yard, roughly 19 switches, nickel silver track all atlas code 100
(If I am allowed)
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150705078673179.459181.636463178&type=3&l=8cf20ea453
Public made gallery of my train set on Facebook.
Engine: Athearn C44-9W
Decoders: Digitrax SDH164D (having issue with) & TCS T1 (tested against with no issues)
Questions:
1. Did I goof by going to Digitrax?
2. Am I missing settings?
3. What would make a dcc decoder with sound just shut down and restart moving a centimeter?
4. What are preferred settings for digitrax and prodigy?
A bunch of details I am including that may or may not help:
So my problem is this, for father’s day I purchased 3 Digitrax SDH164D decoders because I wanted to add sound to my layout. I've converted about 7 of my DC engines(various types and brands) with basic TCS T1 decoders having no problems and been reading Digitrax is a good competitor with good decoders, being their SDH164D is a reasonable costing sound decoder for a new DCC user I thought I have 2 engines and a 4-8-4 steamy I would love to convert.
I started converting an Athearn C44-9W and kept testing as I went (southern pacific in picture if admins allowed me to keep the external Facebook gallery, if not PM me to see everything I am working with) everything seemed ok but I noticed I had to crank the power to get the locomotive to move. (For those that need speed steps - (1-14/10+) (1-28/ 20+) (1-128/96+))
I thought I would change the default address and start playing around with more settings, after I changed the address and set starting-mid-max v settings following the loco type table inside the manual, it didn’t matter what I used the engine was just still and the sound that in default mode would rise, changing the v (yes I know it’s volts) value would not rise when speed increase any more, even taking the engine off and back on the tracks just for kicks, and I did this with 2 of the Digitrax decoders, I did test the engine with a TCS T1 decoder using the same harness as I would for the Digitrax verifying my soldering job with no issue’s. Only thing I seem to change without problems on the Digitrax is if it was steam or diesel, the address, and able to reset the decoder with the Digitrax. (w00t as I say for epic fails)
Railing Long Beach, CA docks
BradC - Welcome to trains.com!
Technically FACEBOOK is a No-No but given your usage, as a Moderator I'm OK with it this time...
Darren (BLHS & CRRM Lifetime Member)
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@Stourbridge Lion Thank you... I just hope someone can use this information and help.
For the future is there a better way to use? does the forum allow image uploads, personally I haven't even checked so again thanks for your time.
Brad
Folks here tend to use the various FREE photo hosting sites such as Photobucket, etc. and then use the icon to link in the photos directly. I have my a few personal websites so I link in my images from them.
Brad,
I have tried a couple of those decoders and I am not impressed. I couldn't get one to work well in a Bachmann GP9 and just put the factory decoder back into it. The sound quality is marginal and I just ran into running problems, stalling, etc. that didn't happen with the cheap BMan decoder. The regular Digitrax decoders seem fine.
I put one into a Mehano 2-10-2 just because I had it and while the operation of the loco is ok, the sound quality is poor. Quite frankly the sound makes a MRC sound good by comparison.
I would recommend you just buy a better quality sound decoder. I have QSI and Tsunami which are both great for steam. Even though many on this forum hate MRC decoders, I have had good luck with them but they aren't nearly as good as QSI or Tsunami.
CNCharlie
The Digitrax sound decoder should work fine - it appears there may be an electrical connection issue as the decoder restarts. Your Athearn C44-9W - is it an older 'Blue Box' engine or a newer 'RTR' engine? The older ones draw a lot of power and that may be an issue.
I have several Digitrax SDH164 series sound decoders. I have them installed in Kato SD40-2 engines(I used the Tonys Train Exchange 1.1" enclosure for the speakers. Other than they do not have lots of volume(actually what I like) due to the 32 ohm speakers - They have been a good value. I know lots of folks complain about 8 bit sound, but most folks think I have Tsunami or ESU decoders(so much for the 'expert' ears).
Have you tried the decoder in a steam engine yet?
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Jim,
Thank you for an answer that makes more sense, I actually sent in a reply to Digitrax last night because one of the decoders sent a pop through the speakers and became hot, then died.
However, I have all older blue box engines because I have been deciding to make my old DC layout/trains modern so I don't need 3147898913 controllers(-joking), which makes sense with your knowledge about drawing a lot of power, when I connected a TCS T1 (1.5amp base, 2amp peak), the engine moved right along with no issues.
I agree with the sound, I have a 1 1/2yr old and a 2 ½ yr old that sleep kind of light, or they just pay attention if they hear dad play they want to play too, so I needed something low key but still enable me to get my fix on, and knowing me I’d install some real life air horn sound and the neighbors would think a train is coming for them (-ha)
About the steam engines, no because they are my babies, so if I couldn’t get the diesel going with no issues, I fear the steam engines would do the same and then I’d be mad I modified the loco with little to no results, am I thinking wrong?
Do you know if they sell RTR motors for the older style blue boxes to enable better operation?
Thanks for your help, You give me hope