I have an Atlas RS-3 which is probably about 20 years old. It has "Japan" stamped on the underside of the frame. When I bought this loco, there wasn't a data sheet included. It runs great in DC, but I want to add a DCC docoder. My question is: how do I remove the superstructure from the frame. I removed the couplers, and thought that the shell could be removed either by pulling outward or pressing inward from the outside.....nothing doing! I have seen videos and articles in the DCC Kalmbach books about adding decoders and lights in these type of locos, but, they don't discuss removing the shells........how is this done?!! I don't want to damage the shell by pushing or pulling too hard. Are there tabs, or some magic as to removing the shell?......HELP!!!
Thanks. -Al
If it says Japan on the bottom, it is probably a Kato drive. If I remeber correctly you will need to remove the side railings and possibly the front and back railing. They should just be press fit into the base. I believe the plastic walkway surrounding the body will then lift off. You can then slip the body up. You may have to spread it outward slightly to do this. I'm going by memory but minimally I gave you a good starting point.
Good luck,
Mark
There are two sets of tabs, one set up front near the radiator louvers and one set on the short hood, press in near the base and lift up.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
What scale?
HO scale. I believe it is a Kato drive......back then, they didn't always have that KATO insignia on the bottom of the trucks. This loco and another like it are very quiet and smooth runners.
Thank you Markie97 and rrinker. I just removed the shell. Yes, the side railings at the bottom at the walkway and at the steps, front-rear and both sides have to be removed. I pressed in at the base near the rear of the long hood and at the base at the end of the short hood, and presto! the shell came off.
For anyone with one of these locos, it looks like a Digitrax DH165KO decoder will work. This loco has one of those "plastic" boards with the thin copper wires with the truck wire clips that will slip off and slip on to the square wires at either end of the the decoder that power the trucks. The headlights are illuminated by a single bulb in the middle of the "plastic" board. I have used the 165KO on two Kato GP-35's. Easy install.
Now, if I can work up the courage to add LED's to these locos! One is the original D&RGW black and yellow paint scheme and the other is the later "Grande" orange on black scheme. I love these locos.
Thanks guys!
-Al
I use TCS decoders, their A4X is the same form factor and clips right on just liek the Digitrax.
The LEDs are easy, the DH165A0 has build in resistors (unless you bypassed it to put the old center light back in). All you need are the LEDs, some thin wire, a razor saw,a dn some Elmer's glue or latex caulk. The light pipes pop right out, but since they also have the lenses for the headlights molded in, instead of removign them, I cut them back to just inside (towards the centr) of the first set of mounting tabs. I attached the LEDs to each stub light pipe with shrink tubing, but another way is to drill a hole into the end of the light pipe and use Faller Xpert cement to glue the LED in. The LED attaches to the two center tabs at each end of the decoder. Unless you cut the ADJ trace on the decoder, they are already current limited and no resistors will be needed. Use some Elmer's glue or latex caulk to glue the light pipes back in place - with only one retaining pin they won't stay without a little help. Neither option is permanent, so you can easily pop them off to completely remove the shell from the chassis., but they won;t just fall down while the loco is running. If the LED doesn't light, reverse the wires on the decoder tabs. You really can't mess this up since the decoder is already current limited to protect the LEDs.
I asked because Kato also did them in N scale for Atlas back then. They were a bear to get apart.