Ordered a Loksound programmer and a Loksound Select Direct and speaker. Probably going to do an RS-3 with this one, since it's kind of annoying that the RS-3 is my favorite loco and I have none fully decorated and ready to use on the layout. I can either put it in the Athearn one, which needs the replacement Cal-Scale horn painted and the MRC decoder removed with extreme prejudice, or I can put it in my brass RS-3, which will need some handrail touchup and I'm still not happy with the drive situation. Already has a can motor replacement, so current draw is fine.
Athearn would get me ready to roll the fastest - the handrails are a mess but I have 2 spare sets. Drat - one additional thing, if I remove the incandescent bulbs I will need lenses for the headlights, and now I just completed my order without ordering those. grrr. Oh well. I can still play around with it, and also swap the sounds on my PCM T-1 steamers with the actual sampled ones.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Randy,
I'll be interested to hear how you like using (and programming with) the Loksound programmer. Love the BEMF of the Loksound decoders. I've got a couple of switchers that I'd like to outfit with some sound at some point.
How much did the programmers run you - i.e. if you don't mind me asking?
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Either way, I'm sure your "commitment" will turn out just fine. I know you've been leaning towards Loksound for a while and I can't see you being disappointed once that loco is up and running.
Let us know how it turns out.
Inspired by Addiction
See more on my YouTube Channel
I paid about $10 too much, because it wa sout of stock at Klein. It was about $160.
There's two versions of the software, one for the newer V4 and Select decoders, one for the older ones, 3.5 and earlier. I HOPE the older program works with the newer programmer - it seems to indicate the reverse is not true, but hopefully the old software works with the new programmer, I want to change my T-1's to use real Reading T-1 files which are out there.
This also means I need to redo my test/program track and wire a DPDT toggle so I can switch between the LokProgrammer and PR3.
I'm sure I won't be disappointed, I absolutely love my PCM T-1s with Loksound decoders. And now they will have even more accurate sounds (hopefully). I did download the Lokprogrammer software and the entire Loksound sound libray and played around with it a bit. CHangine out individual sounds is pretty easy, actually. Defining whole new sound schemes is a bit harder but it's done in a building block fashion and seems doable, like programmign with buildign blocks instead of actually having to write code. Stick a block in that does something, stick a second block in that does somethign else, connect them with a condition, like pressing a function key or the loco stopping or reducing speed or starting from a stop. That sort of thing. DOubt I'll do much if any of that though, they have sounds for nearly everythign in their library. SImple substitutions - their Alco sound set doesn't have the M3 horn I need, but it's in their library, so it is a simple matter to swap the sound and save it as a new project.
rrinker Drat - one additional thing, if I remove the incandescent bulbs I will need lenses for the headlights, and now I just completed my order without ordering those. grrr. --Randy
Drat - one additional thing, if I remove the incandescent bulbs I will need lenses for the headlights, and now I just completed my order without ordering those. grrr.
Give them a call and see if you can add the lenses. If they haven't shipped yet, they'll probably be happy to.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
It's ebay, a nice seller too. They keep finding new numbers on Reading hoppers kits that I don;t hve and I keep buying them. I have to do a bunch of searching to find out which ones will even fit - MV has lenses in a million different sizes. I'm sure I'll be orderign from these people again, I've already orderd three times. Or Klein, definitely will be buying more from Klein. In fact with all these kits I think I need more metal wheels.
Microscale's Kristal Klear works great for mking headlight lenses.Testors Canopy glue also works.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Good idea, I may try that, the lenses on the Athearn RS-3 are very small so it ought to work. I even have some - purchased for gluing the glazing in cab windows, a couple of my P2K locos have had it come loose and it tends to fall down inside the cab. Getting it back in place is not fun, so I picked up some Kristal Klear to use as a spot of adhesive that wouldn't mar the clear surface.