Finally got around to setting default on the decoder, everything went fine and got verbal confirmation that it resat. Tried to get the engine to move, engine would rev up, I could blow the horn and mars light worked.
OK, it is one of the stages of shut down, so i doubled pressed 6 and nothing? Went through the full shut down, engine became quite and you could here the cab door being shut. I then hit F 6 twice, could hear the engine start up, light came on but would still not move. Double pressed F 6 a few more times, nothing.
Resat to default again, still the same results.
One of the problems maybe that the F buttons on my DT 400 don't work great, they stick. (have sent back to Digitrax twice and they never fixed it)
Does anyone here know what CV's have to be changed to get it out of standby mode?
Ken
I hate Rust
What makes you think its a decoder problem and not a mechanical issue? I would pop the shell off and see if you can turn the flywheels by hand.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Pete, that is a good point.
You should see who this think is put together! Motor, flywheels, drive-shafts and worm gears are all enclosed by the weight, nothing can be seen. Speakers and electronic are all on top.
Ken, it sounds like the diesel equivalent of the not-properly-shoved tether plug problem on the BLI steamers....you get sound, but the beast won't turn a wheel. When you get proper contact, the steamers moves reliably from then on. If there is no tether involved for motive purposes, then it must be a bad motor output on the decoder or bad contact along the output route to the motor....IF we assume the drive is functioning well and isn't broken.
You know that if the item were a set of pro dog-grooming electric clippers it would work like a charm every time. Toy trains just don't seem to be as reliable, yet they cost just as much.
Crandell
If it is a dual DCC/DC decoder, have you tried to run it on a DC test track to see if it is a non-DCC related problem. I know in some cases that might not be determinative, but I solved at least one decoder wireing screw-up by trying that. I don't think it can hurt.
Mike
You may have to hit F9 3 times as well. I have a Proto2000 GP20 with a QSI in it. If you have the manual that came with the engine,look in it too see how F6 and F9 work in NEUTREL. If not google QSI manuals and down load it. You should hear the sequince change as you hit F6. Make sure the throttle is at zero. Turn the knob past zero one turn.I have a Digitrax and the buttons do stick some times. Joe.
Thanks for all the answer Guy's. Drop by the dinner and I buy you a Assuming you are all over 18.
Crandell, yes it does sound like the plug problem. Last time I oiled the motor I had to cut and solder all the wires. That will be one of the things I will check.
Joe, I will try the F 9 button 3 times, I do have the manual and it says to push it twice for each stage of shutdown mode. F 6 is to restart the engine. But what the heck right!
Mike I was going to try resitting the decoder in DC mode. I had a problem with my BLI Class J, been a long time and I do forget what the problem was. Took it to my LHS and they tried resat it on DCC, it would not take. Hooked it up to DC and was able to resit the decoder. Worth a try.
Thanks again folks for your time.
Cuda Ken