So I figured from my previous thread that the "run over the N scale Peco switch from behind" would derail the train. So how can I stop the train if the turnout is set in the wrong position on my reverse loop? DCC is a mystery to me...
(1) Use the a DPDT switch on my command panel to (a) set the Turtoise switch and (b) alternate power on two short gapped sections of track trailing the turnout (the left section is without power if the turnout is set straight and vice versa)... but how to wire the autoreverse module then?
(2) Use the Tortoise-included SPDT switches to toggle track power (1 amp should be ok to switch) as above - which leaves the autoreverse problem as well as one switch less for signaling/etc?
(3) Use DCC Specialities PSX-AR for block detection http://dccspecialties.com/products/pdf/man_psxar.pdf and then... somehow signal the train via DCC to break? how?
(4) make rail sections behind the trailing turn-out into toggle switches that - on wheel contact - auto-switch the Tortoise machine into the right position (hello train wrecks.)
(5) Use a break district? I could use a DPDT switch that sets the Turtoise machine and sets the break district, as described in http://www.digitrax.com/ftp/brakedist.pdf. But that's another $250 for my currently only three break districts planned...
(X) use a computer program (somewhow. I really don't want to.)
If your reverse loop is just a simple loop with a switch on one end powered by a tortoise, you can probably accomplish everything using the contacts on the tortoise. The aux. contacts on the tortiose should be able to be used to alter the polarity of the loop, and you can probably make it kill certain sections of track as well (although to accomplish everything may or may not require a relay.)
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog
Option 2 would work - use the Tortosie contacts to reverse the polarity. If set wrong, the train will short and stop before running the turnout. However, there will be a jerk in motion as the contacts switch.
Option 3 modified - forget the detection, the PSX-AR can be set to auto-throw the turnout
Option 6: Just pay attention to the running train and don't run through incorrectly set points. Use an autoreverser to handle the polarity
Option 7 Replace the Peco spring with a lighter one so it works as a spring switch. Prototypes even use these. Use an autoreverser to handle rail polarity, and ust drive through. Unweighted cars might be a bit picky even with a weak spring, but those up to proper NMRA weight should work fine. No switch motor needed. Downside is trains will always traverse teh loop in the same direction, in one way and out the other.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
The PSX-AR series has a feature which will cause it to throw either a stall-motor (Tortoise) or twin-coil switch machine in conjunction with its polarity-flipping duties.
For Tortoise machines, get the PSX-AR. For twin-coils, get the PSX-ARC model.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Ignore the DCC. Put two gaps in the track say 2-3' back from the switch, and two more gaps just at the switch.
Next, use a relay, switch or other device to control your switch and signal. The train will stop with the switch aligned against it.
When you throw the switch and clear the signal you will be powering the gaped section from mainline, and your train will continue.
If you were high-balling to the red signal your train will stop abruptly, but I suppose it is better than derailing.
If after entering the section, you throw the switch and clear the signal your train should keep on moving.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
As your post implies there are zillions of ways to do this. The simplest way is to have the train engineer be paying attention to running the train and stop it before it gets there.
#1 I think this is what Lion is suggesting. It should make zero difference in wiring the auto-reverse circuit. The portions connected to the swich are powered from the main and after them is the part wired to the auto-reversing section.
#2 I think this is the best solution if you plan on powering the turnout anyway. Our club does this in reverse such that the tortoise is switching the power to the track (hot frog) when the turnout changes. I don't understand why you think it causes a problem with the auto-reverser. It just moves the auto-reverser section out into the loop a little further. Nor do I understand why the same set of contacts could not be used for signalling or why the power to the tortoise is not used for signalling freeing up another set of contacts. This is of course assuming you mean signalling to mean something related to indicate the direction of the turnout.
#3 no knowledge so no comment
#4 wheel pressure switches are iffy at best, but you could do the same thing with a simple T type detection section. Have it detect a train approaching the turnout and auto-throw the turnout in that direction.
I understand that this is more of an emergency stop for modelers, not the nice and smooth brake applied :)
Would this be something of a wiring diagram if I use the Tortoise switching machine?
With a Tortoise, the "Panel Switch" should be a Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) toggle wired to drive the Tortoise itself. The Single-Pole, Single-Throw (SPDT) represented by the diagram (with 4-2-3 on it) is probably one of the contact sets on the Tortoise. The other contact set (the Tortoise has 2) could be used to drive the LEDs shown as "signals."
Consider which turnouts you're using, though. Some, like Atlas Customlines or Walthers-Shinohara, have dead frogs which can be powered if needed. I use one of the contacts on the Tortoise for that purpose. You don't need to power the frog on Peco turnouts, as far as I know.
Another option (which has been discussed in earlier threads) is to put the signal LEDs in series with the Tortoise motor. This saves one of the contact sets.
As drawn that will work with a bi-polar power supply and a SPDT toggle with the power supply common connected to pin 8 of the Tortoise.
Yes I agree. It looks good to me too.
I also saw the http://dccspecialties.com/products/hare-ng.htm Hare that does Auto-Throw and power routing, but I'm getting scared of all the programming necessary... rather would like to keep it simple.
thinkstorm I also saw the http://dccspecialties.com/products/hare-ng.htm Hare that does Auto-Throw and power routing, but I'm getting scared of all the programming necessary... rather would like to keep it simple.
As Churchill said, "We have nothing to fear but fear itself."
When I started in this hobby, and when I started again 40 years later, I was a complete novice. I dove right in. I made mistakes. I had some instant success, too. I had a craftsman wood laser-cut kit that sat on a shelf for 3 years until I felt "worthy" of trying to build it. I asked questions, got answers, asked for clarifications and did what I could.
Always remember the Little Train That Could. "I think I can. I think I can. I think I can." That story has been with me since before I could read. And it's with me still.
I fall back on one of two options then - spring switch plus a basic autoreverser, this makes it completely automatic. This is a simpel mechnical modification of the turnout, not electrical.
Or just pay attention when runnign the train and don;t run the switch lined the wrong way, and use a basic autoreverser to handle the polarity issue. No modification of anythign needed, just have to be alert.