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Old Athearn Blue Box U-28 DCC with sound install?

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  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: East central Missouri
  • 1,065 posts
Old Athearn Blue Box U-28 DCC with sound install?
Posted by Santa Fe all the way! on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 9:23 AM
Im wondering what is involved in installing a Tsunami sound decoder in an old Athearn U28? Why install DCC and sound in an old loco you say? Well this loco has alot of sentimental value as it was my very first "real" loco, ie non-train set loco. Its a rather handsome Burlington Northern unit that I purchased new in 1978 or 1979.I remember being very impressed with the fact it was equiped with flywheels, ran smooth and was weighted sooo much better than my Life Like locos.Im actually surprised its survived all this time with all the moves its been thru. I do have some experience installing sound decoders, but nothing in something this old.
Come on CMW, make a '41-'46 Chevy school bus!
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Mpls/St.Paul
  • 13,892 posts
Posted by wjstix on Thursday, March 1, 2012 4:56 PM

It's pretty easy, the main thing is you need to remove the motor and add a strip of electrical tape to isolate the motor from the chassis. I can't think of the name right now but I know one of the Kalmbach "How To" books on DCC uses an Athearn blue box engine as an example, showing you step by step how to install the decoder.

Digitrax makes a "DHAT" harness that is designed for converting an Athearn engine to DCC. (Even though it says it's a "no solder" method, I'd probably still solder the connections anyway.) I've used it on a couple of F7's and it's worked fine.

Stix
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: East central Missouri
  • 1,065 posts
Posted by Santa Fe all the way! on Thursday, March 1, 2012 5:47 PM
Stix, thanks for the info.
Come on CMW, make a '41-'46 Chevy school bus!
  • Member since
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  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Thursday, March 1, 2012 9:13 PM

 Or just look at the instructions and duplicate the DHAT harness yourself for free. You just have to solder the grey to the bottom motor clip, clip off the tab that sticks out to contact the frame, put a layer of tape in the bottom just in case, solder the orange to the top clip, the red to the tabs on the trucks, annd drill and tap a  hole for a brass screw in the frame for the black wire. Cut off most of the clips on the trucks to make room for the speaker and enclosure. For a basic motor decoder in AThearn this should take a few minutes to do, really. A little more to fit a speaker and enclosure, which is the hardest part of the install. The only difference with the DHAT harness is the black wire clips to the headlight bracket instead of a screw in the frame, but this is highly unreliable as the headlight clip is just riveted to the frame is is often loose.

 ANd yes, check curent draw, if it's the black motor forget it, it will draw too much power and will need to be remotored. If it's the gold color motor, it will probably be ok, but test. 12 volts DC, and grab the flywheels to hold the motor from turning. The current must be below the decoder's limit or it will fry.

                      --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: East central Missouri
  • 1,065 posts
Posted by Santa Fe all the way! on Tuesday, March 6, 2012 3:34 PM
Thanks guys for the info/advice. I will check stall amps, motor color etc. Doesnt sound too tough.
Come on CMW, make a '41-'46 Chevy school bus!
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: East central Missouri
  • 1,065 posts
Posted by Santa Fe all the way! on Monday, March 12, 2012 4:13 PM
Opened up the loco, good news, motor is gold and stall amps are under 1 amp. Found an outstanding how to vid on Youtube and will pickup the wiring harness. I think I will go with a motor only decoder,probably a Digitrax 123
Come on CMW, make a '41-'46 Chevy school bus!
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: S.E. Adirondacks, NY
  • 3,246 posts
Posted by modelmaker51 on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 6:38 AM

When I rewire or remotor an Athearn, I solder wire directly to the brass rivets on the trucks (remove the sideframes first so you don't melt them). Use 22 or 24 gauge wire. Pre-tin the wires and put a little flux on the rivets.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorful Colorado
  • 8,639 posts
Posted by Texas Zepher on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 2:32 PM

I agree with Randy in that the hardest part of this is going to be the speaker(s).   Have you already decided on type and location for it(them)?    An Athearn U28 is one loco not in my stable so I can't pull one out and make suggestions.  I could only guess.

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