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Light Fixtures

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Light Fixtures
Posted by alloboard on Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:11 PM

     Instead of using glue or tape, I have a better idea how about tiny U shaped fixtures! You glue the bottom of the fixtures and place them over the wires close to the bulb. Where can I find these? It does not have to be from a hobby vendor perhaps a hardware store?

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Posted by richg1998 on Thursday, November 10, 2011 4:08 PM

Show us a diagram of what you want.

Rich

If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.

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Posted by alloboard on Thursday, November 10, 2011 4:13 PM

It's not complicated. I just need something that is U shaped and very tiny that's it.

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Posted by JoeinPA on Thursday, November 10, 2011 5:40 PM

Get some small tubing and slice it in half.

 

Joe

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Posted by gandydancer19 on Thursday, November 10, 2011 5:43 PM

You have not given us very much information.  I can't read you mind to figure out what you have and what you want to do with it.

You do know that a picture is worth a thousand words don't you?  So here is the beginning of a thousand words:

how big around does it have to be?

How long does it have to be?

How thin or thick does it have to be?

How much weight does it have to support?

Are you talking about a room light or a model light?

What type of bulb does it use?

How hot does it get?

Input, input, need more input.

Elmer.

The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.

(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.

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Posted by alloboard on Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:00 PM

never mind

Moderator
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Posted by tstage on Thursday, November 10, 2011 10:13 PM

Ok then. Thanks

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by gmpullman on Friday, November 11, 2011 12:10 AM

There are nylon sleeves that are made for mounting LEDs into panels out there, could work for GOW bulbs, too?  I just mount my lamps with a dab of Walther's Goo and if I ever have to change one I can slice it free with an X-acto blade.

IF you are using tungsten filament lamps heat is an issue. I have a stock of peel and stick foil that I cut to use as reflector/heat shields. The foil helps dissipate heat.

Ed

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, November 11, 2011 7:09 AM

I put lights in my subway tunnels.  You can see one of them on the left-hand side, near the top of this picture.

The headlight of this trolley is similar:

Both of these are LEDs.  Nothing was added to them.  I just mounted them directly with a bit of glue.  LEDs have a couple of big advantages here.  They use a lot less power than incandescents, and they will probably live longer than most of us, so replacing bulbs is not much of an issue.  Most important, though, is that they run cool.  I can mount them in a styrene surface like the subway wall and not have to worry about melting anything.  The disadvantage of these LEDs is the light distribution.  Most of it comes out as a bright beam, perfect for a headlight but not as good for interior illumination.

The subway wall LED is a 5mm and the trolley uses a 3mm, as I recall.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by superbe on Friday, November 11, 2011 8:11 AM

Mr. B

I'm just getting my feet wet with lighting.

When you say you add nothing to the LEDs are you referring to resistors??

Also I read on another thread that filling the tip of the LED will diffuse the light. Never tried it so take it for what it's worth.

The tunnel walls look great

Bob

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, November 11, 2011 8:21 AM

I meant that I added nothing to the outside of the LED.  That's what they look like.

LEDs do need resistors.  I just start with a 1K.  I have used other resistors in places like signals where I wanted the lights brighter or dimmer, but 1K is a good starting point.

Flattening the front will diffuse the light somewhat.  They also make LEDs which do have a more diffuse pattern.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, November 12, 2011 1:13 PM

 A general way to tell if the LED will be more of a point source or a diffuse source is the case. In general, those with a clear case, or a clear color case, like red or green, will tend to be point sources, whil those with an opaque clear or color case will diffuse the light. Hence the idea of roughing up with surface to turn a point source LED into a diffuse one. That generally applies to the rounded types commononly seen. The flat top conical ones tend to be diffuse, with more light coming out the sides and not just out the very front.

                         --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 20, 2011 4:21 AM

This is one strange thread.

 

Alton Junction

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Posted by BroadwayLion on Sunday, November 20, 2011 8:31 AM

The LION also has LEDs on his subway walls. On mine the entire LED is inside of the tunnel with each leg piercing the foam wall through a separate itty bitty hole. One is bent up, the other down. A glob of silicone caulk is then added to the LED and a snip of plastic is set in place so that the light does not blind the oncoming motorman.

The bright light here, is actually a blue LED marking the location of the emergency exit, telephone and Emergency Power Cutoff.

 

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

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