I have the ConCor #7 galloping goose and like its detail. I find its running gear system OK, though the low speed end is a bit jerky using the recommended Digitrax decoder that I installed. Sure, I won't be doing any slow speed switching but it would be nice to have the real low speeds smooth. All running speeds like a scale 20mph and higher are very smooth and mellow.
I am looking at getting their sound/decoder board for it. Has anyone actually heard it? What do you think of it? Is it decent or toy like?
Richard
If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed
Richard , You did not say how long you have had the " goose " . You might try checking the running gear and all other associated moving parts to check for loose or binding parts and maybe some new gear lube/grease. You can also try " adjusting " the starting voltage of the decoder.
Hope this helps, Otto
Yes, a member of our club has a narrow gage ConCor goose that had a sound unit installed. But the decoder installed was an after market Tsunami. I don't know if the Concor supplied sound unit is a Tsunami or something else.
Quality of sound is a personal opinion thing. I have never heard a real goose, so I can't compare to the model. And obviously you are dealing with a small model with limited room for a speaker. You are probably dealing with the perception of "isn't that cute" from the non-model railroad observers, but the more serious modelers seem to have a better opinion. Of course they've never heard a real one either.
I will say that the Tsunami has neat engine shut down and start up sounds, with a little coughing and gagging to make the sound interesting.
And the Tsunami seems to control the speed very well, and could probably be made better by adjusting the appropriate CVs.
Thanks for the early postings. Answers to questions. The goose is brand new and gears seem well lubed though no overmuch so. The low speed is there, it is just jerky on acceleration to the optimum run speed which is fine.
Sound wise, I know all about the fabulous Tsunami sound as I run only Blackstone C-19s and K-27s with Tsunami sounds. I just wanted to know about ConCor's goose only sound decoders made for their goose.
I have one of the original Con-Cor Galloping Goose models into which a custom SoundTraxx decoder was installed. This decoder is both sound and motor control.
The souinds are authentic, since Throttle Up, the makers of the SoundTraxx decoder are in Durango, Colorado and there is an operating goose in that area.
Due to the very small sized speaker that will fit into the model, however, the sound is naturally very weak,. IIRC, only a 1/2 inch round speaker will fit.
not to grab a post ,but is the goose sound track avalble from digitax download soundloader ?
I just got more data with a phone call. The ConCor part 0001-006008 is a Digitrax SDN144PS plug in mobile Sound/Motor/Function decoder with soundFX preloaded with sound for the galloping goose.
Ordered from Model Train Stuff, This is $55.29
Go to the You Tube site and search for the galloping goose or maybe Bachmann goose as examples. You will see and hear some with the LokSound and Tsunami Goose sounds.
LokSound and SoundTraxx sites both have sample sounds you can listen to.
I recommend that because there are opinions on this loco sound and I rather not offer an opinion.
I think some use a EMD diesel sound.
I use LokSound and Tsunami other sounds and both creep really nice when you learn how to fine tune the decoder. Mine start at about 1 mph.
The Tsunami has a lot of sound adjustments you can make compared to the LokSound.
No idea about Digitrax but they probably have sound samples also.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
By way of update. The digitrax goose decoder-sound board for the Concor goose arrived and I installed it. The sound is OK and the engine rev up is keyed to acceleration OK, as well. The horn is quite good, too. However, the bell sound is one of the worst I have ever heard to such a degree that I will never press that function key ever again, save by accident! (spoiled by Tsunami sound).
I have another major gripe with Concor. The lights are such that they should be embarassed to even put them on the vehicle. I cut their top light off the Pierce Arrow and wiredup an old Cal Scale traction light with LED. Ditto the rear light as well.
NOTE: To all buyers of the Concor HOn3 Goose #7.... Before even turning on your model, remove the rear backup lamp! The idiots put in a large free floating incandescent lamp almost in contact with the rear plastic wall! The plastic on my model softened and rippled a tiny bit. As it is, a naked, hot lamp and the ineffectual rear fiber light pipe passes only about 0.2% of the light out of the scale backup light. The most light seen in the dark is a huge brillant patch under the rear wheels of the car as the unshielded lamp shines brilliantly through the open body and speaker baffle cavity onto the roadbed under the car on non-sound models. A traction lamp casting with cool LED now covers the rippled area on the rear of the car body.
One hates paying big money for stuff that is just poorly thought out at a core level on what is a rather high scale model.
Yes have had one for months. Love it.All the sounds and runs smooth.Factory installed sound/decoder. Jim Goose
Glad this forum is still alive.
I just picked up the Tsunami TS-1000 DCC controller and sound system for the goose. I will install it soon. Its sound is much better by about 500% and will be in keeping with the sound quality of my Blackstone C-19s and K-27s. Even the discounted price of $90.00 for the Tsunami TS-1000 stung a bit.
I guess I'll just tear out the custom Digitrax sound and controller that was in the con-cor goose and either sell it or make up some kitbashed custom rail motor car for my narrow gauge system.
I guess, based on what I hear and in future, I will never purchase another sound system other than Tsunami and just bite the bullet on price.
cacole Due to the very small sized speaker that will fit into the model, however, the sound is naturally very weak,. IIRC, only a 1/2 inch round speaker will fit.
The new Goose takes an an oval speaker with a rectangular frame, you can get it from Soundtrax.
The model has pins in the fioor for the holes in the speaker frame to fit in. The Sound is great but the model sucks, even the new one. Cheap and pourly desighned running gear. It is light will need weight added. And your track as to be spotless for it to pick up current with the limited amount of wheels.
I was going to by one, but after installing sound in one(the latest run) for a freind and all the crap I had to go through to get it to run decent, You couldn't give me one.
PS, had to put #603 led's for the light to shine through their lighting tubes and they still are not as bright as I would like them to be. You couldn't tell if they were on with the bulbs that were installed in the factory.
Truck.
..
I have mentioned, just recently on the general forum, just how poorly the ConCor lights on the Pierce Arrow goose are executed. They are just about worthless.
I had mentionned the incandescent back light issue quite a while back.
The Digitrax SDN144 sound decoder in this works "ok", for the price. At twice the cost, the Soundtraxx or other are a bettre choice, granted. But since I use transponding, I stick with the SDN144. Be aware that the SDN144 uses 11.025 sample rate @ 8 bit where the Tsunami uses 44.4 @ 16bit. Makes a big diff in the sound reproduction but at twice the cost.
I did away with the front light pipe arrangement entirely. The front lighting was insufficiant.
I drilled those tiny head lights out. Soldered two tiny SM leds to a cross bar made from a 3mm led lead. Soldered fine magnet wire to other end of the leds. Glued the head lights down over the led/wire/crossbar assembly. Tested it and all was fine.
Cut the radiator off the body and notched the radiator/hood for the cross bar. Glued the light bar to radiator. Solder a wire from cross bar to the light board and the fine wires from the leds also to the light board. No need to add a resistor as it is all ready present.
Replaced the rear incandescent with an LED also. Added the required resistor right on the light board.
I also replaced all glass with individual panes. Looks bettre than the molded glass.
I changed the bell sound also. Downloaded one I liked from the web and played around with it in a wav editor till I got what I wanted, uploaded it to the SDN144 decoder. Can not do this with the other decoders.
If you rummage around on the internet you can find other sound sources (wav) for the Goose and replace the ones that come with the Concor supplied SPJ file. Things like doors closing, buzzers, different startup sounds. Just requires the patience to play around with the wav files.
Both the original and modified bell Goose SPJ are availlable from the Digitraxsound forum, Yahoo groups. Find it under files/engines/gassers.
This Goose does have a few issues with the wiring (came unsolder, truck) , the motor (binding), the lights (front weak, rear incandescent melts plastic) that I have since resolved and so far it is ok for me.
Marc.
What started as a love of Thomas the Tank Engine has grown into this... a passion for all things railroading!
YouTube: FJX2000 Productions
Insta: hayden_trains_n_fjs
Realise this is old but 10 month is not all that bad.
The nice part about the Digirax decoder is we can change the bell sound and this is rather a simle task to complete. Unfortunately it does require a PR3. The SDN144PS that was provided could be updated to a 16 bit Digitrax decoder and the sounds edited. But now you can install a TSU-1100 in it without concern.
Marc