1. They handle multiple gauges of wire 28AWG->12AWG2. They can easily be opened and reused3. They don't require any special tools.4. They are used in heavy duty industrial applications where failure rates are measured in decades.
Do a search on "Wago 222" connector or "Wago 222-415" or "Wago 222-413"
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Don,
In what application(s) have you used these? Thanks...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
First glance, the price was shocking. But it's for multiple packs, per unit is 50 cents or less. However, for bus to feeder, you have to cut and strip both pieces of bus wire, since there's no pass-thru on these connectors. However, as intermediate feeds, such as where you tap off the main bus to feed a block detecotr which is detecting a section with up to 4 track feeders, these could work, and easier than a barrier strip (really easier, as far as I'm concerend, because I am not one to wrap bare wire around the screw on a barrier strip. I prefer putting ring terminals on the end of the wire, both crimping with the proper tool AND soldering. And ring terminals, not spades, so they can't EVER slip off).
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Tom,
I use these for bus wiring mostly. But you can also use then for easy accessory wiring.
You can put any size wire 12AWG-28AWG in any hole. This is advantages over suitcase connectors what require 1 specific size in one hole, and another specific size in another hole.
I can put 12 gauge main bus wire in two holes, and 18AWG track feeder in the third with no issue.
The nay-sayers of suitcase connectors (crimp type displacement) claim they fail after so many years. These are spring loaded crimp type so there's always a solid pressure applied to the exposed wire.
And because these are toolless, you can simply flip the thumb up and pull the single wire out. This is a lot LESS tedious than undoing suitcase connectors. This is really useful for when you want to remove a lighted building off a layout with minimal fuss.
DigitalGriffin This is really useful for when you want to remove a lighted building off a layout with minimal fuss.
This is really useful for when you want to remove a lighted building off a layout with minimal fuss.
And I've been deliberating about how I want to handle just that very situation on my layout. Good stuff, Don. Thanks!
Looks quite nice.
The 415, 5 conductor at Amazon.com. A 40 PK for $22.95, USD.
413, 3 conductor, a 50 PK for $15.95.
28 AWG to 12AWG, stranded and solid.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Use Posi-taps, not stripping the buss and you can use solid wire for your drops, also no tools and for those that do DCC you can get in line fuzes.
I like good ole wire nuts. Cheap and work just fine.
Springfield PA
I am also a big fan of Posi-taps. You can find them at most automotive stores and sometimes at Wal-Mart. At times they have factory sales, as well. You can make a connection in under a minute and I have never had a failure.
I will never use the so-called suitcase connectors again.
John Timm
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Generally,
Can this be substituted for soldering and conduct current just as well? I understand that wiring up a layout for DCC, with feeders included, should be done with care and strong, solid connections.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Any layout, whether DC or DCC, requires strong, solid connections everywhere. When all is said and done, a good solder joint can't be beat. That assumes you know how to make a neat, mechanical splice, are good at soldering, have a lot of patience, and don't mind burning yourself every so often with either the soldering iron or an errant drop of hot solder.
That said, ever since I switched to mechanical connectors for layout wiring--starting with the so-called suitcases connectors and now using Posi-taps--I have had no connectivity issues. The only soldering I do these days is on locomotives or when building electrical components for signals and the like.