I have attempted to add a "Stay Alive" Capicitor, diode and resistor to a Tsunami 1000 Hvy Steam Decoder. I think I added it per the information but must not have because on the track there is nothing. Even if I made an error it would seem to me that it should still work as it is an insert to the blue wire and the small stay alive capacitor's black wire. These were junctions, soldered, not inserted inline. I am going to go back and remove and see if it works again just to insure it is still working. If you have any thoughts, I'd appreciate it. For those who might ask, yes, it ws working before I added the parts.
I am almost certain the Tsunamis come with a keep alive capacitor already. All of the diesel Tsunami decoders I have did. If there is a capacitor on two wires outside of the decoder package, that is the keep alive cap. You shouldn't need to add a special circuit for it, so I don't know where you got your information from that said that you needed to add a keep alive circuit to a Tsunami.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
The 'special circuit' is the simple thing that shoudl have been on these decoders fromt he start - a simple resitor and diode that limits inrush current. The first time I saw it mentioned in terms of using it with DCC was an old circuit diagram of Mark Gurries' for a constant lighting solution for passenger cars. In a decoder context, just look at Marcus Ammann's site: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
This super simple addition means no inrush issue for the decoder when starting up or when trying to program it, and no need for a program track booster. Yet the stored potential int he cap cna feed the decoder and keep it goign over momentary loss of contact.
As for the OP, there should already be a cap on the Tsunami. You have to remove and replace, not wire in parallel, for things to work - see the site linked.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
OK, I didn't realize that the Tsunamis cap was just for sound and did not help the motor.
Thanks for the link.
I know that there is a small capacitor on the decoder, but from the article below, it is claimed that it will only keep alive the sound, not the motor and the author addresses this with another capacitor that will keep the motor running much the same way for a short time depending on the size of the capacitor. I attache the link below. I don't think my capacitor I bought has any particular polarity, so don't think that is the issue. In short, the little capacitor doesn't keep my loco going. Wish it had a flywheel now and wonder about adding a new motor and flywheel. However, if the circuit can be made to function as intended, that would do it. Thanks for the information.
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
Your alternatives are to keep the track, wheels, and pickups clean and/or add additional pickups. I don't have problems with 4 axle diesels even though I never got around to powerign my frogs, that includes sound and non-sound. One of my sound units is a dummy B unit with a Soundtraxx LC, those don't have keep alive capacitors on them, but the sound never falters while dragging it around my layout. I was planning to hook up a stay alive cap but since I don;t have any problems I end up never remembering to get the parts I need.
Perhaps the better conductivity is the best solution. My diesels don't have problems.
The link given for the stay alive explains it all. If all else fails, follow instructions. Store the link in Favorites. All of you will need it.
You can add the cap in parallel. The stay alive cap that comes with the 750 and 1000 Tsunami is in parallel with a chip capacitor that is on the decoder. All decoders come with the primary filter capacitor on the decoder. SoundTraxx adds a capacitor for sound interruptions. SoundTraxx expects people to know what they are doing when working at this level in DCC. Many never take the time to learn the basics.
Stay alive caps are all in parallel with that capacitor, except have the added diode and resistor. More capacitance, more in rush current. Again, take time to read ALL the stay alive link. Do not make assumptions.
I use both decoders.
Te older LC sound decoders ave a 33 ufd bipolar cap for sound ONLY. SoundTraxx did NOT have a cap for stay alive on those decoders.
Below is a very useful link about decoders with a lot of info in the Curriculum link. Store the link in Favorites.
http://www.mrdccu.com/
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
GMILL47 Perhaps the better conductivity is the best solution. My diesels don't have problems.
Which is clean track, wheels and pickups. Many think, looks clean, must be clean.
Also adequate pickups. Some steamers do not have enough pickups.
GMILL47 I don't think my capacitor I bought has any particular polarity, so don't think that is the issue. In short, the little capacitor doesn't keep my loco going. http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
I don't think my capacitor I bought has any particular polarity, so don't think that is the issue. In short, the little capacitor doesn't keep my loco going.
The capacitor that is required is an electrolytic capacitor. They DO have a polarity, and it must be installed properly, as shown in the diagrams. You must know which end or which lead is the positive lead. Yes, you can buy non-polarized capacitors for some applications, but the little plus sign on the diagram indicated that it is NOT a non-polarized type.
The diode also has a polarity. It too must be installed in the proper direction.
Failure to install either of these components in the correct way will cause the circuit not to work.
The parts must also be of the proper values as shown in the diagram and in the text, or they may not work.
This topic title made me laugh...
Sorry, but I can't resist...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WXVaChA3Q0
"I didn't go there that night to fall in love, I just dropped in for a couple drinks. Suddenly, there she was..."
Paul A. Cutler III ---> See? I'm not serious all the time!
Now I want to go watch the entire movie. I've only seen it about 100 times.
Humor aside, thought I'd provide an update. I took the circuit out and found the engine didn't work - still. Disovered that the mini-connetor had a wire loose or connector that wasn't tight on one side. Having found that I went back to add the circuit back in. This time I added a two prong miniconnector to plug the circuit into. Now everything is back together and running. I have an occasional short where the pilot touchs the rail and will need to work on that. Thanks for everyone trying to help.