I have a problem with a brand new NCE Power Cab. I took it out of the box and went through the set up. Everything was working fine for about 15 minutes and then the screen on the throttle began alternating between the home screen and a screen where both lines read, "F:---------". At that point none of the keys or thumbwheel responded. I unplugged the whole system and replugged everything back in. I went throgh the quick start guide again, and, again, it worked for a few minutes and then went to the alternating F:---- screen.
Any ideas?
Marco,
The F over F screen is normal if you are pressing the EXP button, as this gives you a quick view of what functions (F0-F28) is on or off for that particular decoder. However, if it is alternating back and forth between that and the home screen than that is not normal.
If that is the case then I would call or e-mail Larry Larsen @ NCE and tell him what you are experiencing. They've always been very good about replying back; either the same day or within 24 hours.
Marco, keep us posted what you find out...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks, Tom. Yup, I called and left a message for NCE tech support, and being the weekend, I'm sure I'll hear from them this morning. Will let you guys know as soon as I hear.
Thanks,
Mark
Tom, I talked to Larry today - very nice gentleman - and he is going to send me out a new microprocessor and the instructions to install it. Will lt you know if that helps.
regards,
Thanks for the update, Mark. Yea, Larry's a good guy.
The "microprocessor" (actually an EEPROM) is fairly easy to uninstall/install. All you really need is small flat-head and Philips-head screwdriver:
Hopefully that should take care of the problem for you, Mark. It's nice when you don't have to send in the unit and can do the replacement yourself.
Hi Tom,
I haven't received the eeprom from Larry yet, but I am sure it will come soon - hopefully before the weekend. I have one more question though... I removed the back cover of the throttle, but it appears what I am looking at when I do this, is the back of a circuit board... the only way to get at the eeprom would be to remove this circuit board... Wish there was a way to send you a picture. Am I missing something. Like I say, I haven't even gotten the thing yet, but was just curious.
Have a good night! (and thanks for all your help thus far!)Mark!
Mark,
You should see two circuit boards: The one above is for the LCD screen; the vertical one is for the encoder (thumbwheel) and EEPROM. The EEPROM will be to the right and up near the corner of the vertical board. It will look like a long flat centipede ~1-1/2" long running N to S.
The directions for removing and installing it will come with the new EEPROM. As mentioned earlier, it's a pretty straightforward procedure. Just take your time prying the old EEPROM out of the connector socket and press the new one in place so that it is seated flat and doesn't stick up on one end.
FYI, in my case, the assembly was "sticking" to the back cover. I dislodged it and put it in the front cover where it belongs (g). Looks the way I expect it to now (haha).
Hi,
Well the new EEPROM came in the mail while i was at work and I carefully installed it, took it downstairs to the test track and the exact same sequence happened - worked for about a minute, but when I went to set my loco, the dreaded F:----- screen popped back up and then started alternating between that and the home screen. Left Larry an email, but, of course, it is the weekend again...
You know what else is wierd about all of this, the loco I have is an Atlas RS32 with a digitrax 165A0 and a digitrax sfx004 soundbug. (I just installed the soundbug while waiting for the EEPROM.) The decoder has an address of 4244. The train was on the track when I plugged the plugged the throttle with the new decoder in. The throttle booted up as LOCO 3 of course, new eeprom, but the little soundbug immediately started chugging as soon as the track got power... As soon as I pressed the select loco button, the F's came up. :(
Do you think the engine decoder could be sending back some wierd signal to the throttle. Wish I knew someone that had a Power Cab that I could try my throttle on and see if the same thing happens... My one good railroading buddy has a digitrax, though -
mark
That is a strange one, Mark. Hmmmm....
Is the Atlas RS32 the only locomotive you have that has a decoder in it that you can test with your Power Cab? Can or have you tested the locomotive on your friends layout? Does he have a locomotive or two that you can try with your Power Cab to see if it does the same thing? That way you can confirm if it's the Power Cab or your locomotive that's having the issues.
Mark, if you do test another locomotive on your test track, try and uninstall/reinstall the EEPROM again before testing it with another locomotive.
Mark.
Unplug the track wires from the Power Cab panel and power up the Power Cab. Watch the screen while it powers up. It should come up Pro Cab and version # and then Power Cab and version 1.28. Then it should change to the operating screen. It could be that one of your buttons is stuck on and not releasing. Mine did that years ago. It turned out the key pad was not installed right and kept the program/ escape button on.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Tom - definately the throttle. Brought my loco to Scale Model Supply and ran it on their digitrax test track and worked just fine. Brought my friends loco over with a Tsunami and the throttle performed the same bad way. I have pulled and put the eeprom back several times the last day. (The new one is v 1.3 by the way...)
Pete - I removed the track wires and plugged in the power cab to the panel and it came up to the v 1.3 screen and then immediately popped over to the Function screen.
I think it honestly does have something to do with a poorly constructed key pad. the reason I say this is because the first time I removed the back, the circuit board came out with the back and the button pad was just flopping around in the front...
Anyway, I bought it on ebay from Power Hobby as new in the box ,
and have not contacted them yet. I am going to see if they will just take back and refund me.
Wish me luck,
Marcopolo123 Tom - definately the throttle. Brought my loco to Scale Model Supply and ran it on their digitrax test track and worked just fine. Brought my friends loco over with a Tsunami and the throttle performed the same bad way. I have pulled and put the eeprom back several times the last day. (The new one is v 1.3 by the way...)... Anyway, I bought it on ebay from Power Hobby as new in the box , and have not contacted them yet. I am going to see if they will just take back and refund me. Wish me luck, Mark
Tom - definately the throttle. Brought my loco to Scale Model Supply and ran it on their digitrax test track and worked just fine. Brought my friends loco over with a Tsunami and the throttle performed the same bad way. I have pulled and put the eeprom back several times the last day. (The new one is v 1.3 by the way...)...
Good, Mark - i.e. good, in the sense, that you've verified that it IS the throttle that's the problem and not your locomotive.
I would go ahead and try contacting Power Hobby to see if they'll give you a return/refund for the Power Cab. I would also follow through with Larry @ NCE. They might just decide to replace the whole throttle for you and it could be quicker than going the refund route.
FWIW, I have not had a lick of trouble from my Power Cab and I bought mine when it first came out in early 2006. It now has the V1.28B update EEPROM in it.
Keep us posted, Mark.
Well, I have some VERY disappointing news re: my NCE system. I sent the system in last Tuesday. USPS confirmed that it was received by NCE Warrenty Repair on Friday morning at 10 a.m. I didn't hear anything from them on Friday or Monday, so I called today and spoke to Larry - curious to see what could be causing the glitchy readout. He confirmed they did receive it on Friday, but had not had a chance to look at it yet. About an hour ago I got a letter from a "Mike" at NCE saying that they were "busy" and wouldn't be even looking at it for 2 or 3 more weeks!!! I am so VERY upset.....
Sorry for the discouraging news, Mark. I would be disappointed, too.
Not to make excuses but keep in mind that the month of July is a VERY busy month for the MRRing industry because they are all getting ready for the annual NMRA convention held every year. This is a HUGE deal to these sorts of business as it gives them large exposure to the buyer.
And NCE may also have other pressing needs/developments, as well. They are a small cottage business with...maybe a dozen or so employees, tops.
FWIW, at least Mike let you know what to realistically expect. The last locomotive that I sent into BLI for warranty repair took nearly 8 weeks.
I understand all that, but 2 to 3 weeks to even LOOK at it? Geeze, NCE, just take it out of the box, plug it in and send me a new throttle.... Can't for the life of me see how that can take 2 to 3 days, let alone, weeks...
In truth, I am kind of mad at myself for buying this thing on line, even advertised as NEW on eBay. Had I bought it at Scale Model supply her in St. Paul, I would have paid about $30 more for it, but I could have just returned it no questions asked and gotten a replacement. Now I am out $150 and have no way to run my brand new little layout for at least 3 weeks... May just go to eBay and complain about Power Hobby, dba Model City... I have talked to Power Hobby customer support and they basically told me my only recourse was the Manufacturers warranty... So here I sit...
I am happy to report that Mike at NCE called me back this morning and made the situation right. He wanted to let me know that was in the process of repairing my throttle and would probably be returning it to me today or tomorrow. The problem was some bad solder points that were causing it to glitch. I’m sorry that I flew off like that. Mike and Larry at NCE are both very nice guys when you talk with them in person. Cooler heads are prevailing today.
Great news, Mark! Perhaps a cold (iffy) solder joint or two? Those tend to cause intermittent problems.
Glad to hear it is being resolved.
My Power Cab arrived back from NCE today and it seems to be working! Only had a chance to play with it for about 45 minutes or so, but that would be more than enough time for it to glitch. Seems to be working fine!
Thanks to Mike and Larry at NCE, and thank you also, Tom, for hanging in there with me!
Woohoo! Good news, Mark! Keep me posted when you have more time to play with it.
Happy to report that all is well in NCE PowerCab land! Just "upgraded" the soundboard in my Atlas RS-32 from a DH165A0 / Digitrax Soundbug combo to a Tsunami AT1000 251 V12 board. Only problem in the whole switchover was that I lost 2 of the little black plastic do-hickeys that hold the wire to the board... Would you know what the technical name for those things are? as I want to order some more and doing a search on google for "do-hickeys" didn't get exactly what I hoped for
I don't worry about those little caps, as I solder the wires on. Another thing I don't totally trust to make a good solid connection, just bending the wire over under those plastic caps.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I call them trash. A solder joint is the only way to go.
Thanks, guys! That's the way I am going to approach it!
Actually, Mark, this may be a good opportunity for you to hone your soldering skills. I don't know the technical term for the black plastic "do-hickeys" but soldering would make for a better electrical connection.
With the wire in place, a tiny bit of flux on the pad to whet it and a quick touch of the soldering iron and solder to the pad and you're electrically connected. Just make sure the solder joint is shiny-looking so that you know you have a good connection. If it's gray and dull in appearance, add a little bit more flux and touch it up with the soldering iron.
Hope that helps...
That helps very much, Tom, thanks! I never did like those little plastic things... Maybe I kind of "lost" a couple of them on purpose, no? Anyway, I am going to practice my soldering on the original Atlas board that came with the engine, and then move onto the real thing. I did solder the speaker wires onto their respective points, so I should be ok... I worry more about my eyesight than I do about trying to steady the iron, but I'll let you know how it goes....
If you haven't gotten one already, do yourself a favor and buy an Optivisor. You can wear it over any prescription or reading glasses and it swings up and out of the way when you don't need it. I bought the Mascot 2.5X version with the imitation adjustable leather headband. I find it MUCH more comfortable to wear than the adjustable plastic band on the original Optivisor.
Hands down it's the most used tool in my MRRing tool box. I use it for painting, assembly, soldering, cutting - You name it! Best $17 investment I've made so far.