Can I use snap switches and a dc power pack to throw the switches while the rest of my layout is powered by dcc? Since I already have all the parts and pieces, I see no need to "upgrade" the switches if I do not have to.
Thank you for your responses.
My railroad, my rules!
Sure, you do not need to have DCC controlled switches. The DC power pack and Atlas switch machine do not have to be part of the DCC system. My layout has DCC train control, and Tortoise switch motors(powered from a 'wall wart'). The switches are not connected to the DCC system.
If you want to have DCC control of the switches, you will need to buy DCC 'stationary' decoders to control the switches. This can be done later if you change your mind!
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Yup. There is no need to control the switch motors from DCC. You can keep them hooked up just liek before when you switch to DCC for controllign the trains and everythign will be fine. Maybe better if your DC power pack was somewhat underpowered and your trains paused every time you threw a switch.
DCC control is nice if you want to have a dispatcher panel and someone control the layout that way - you cna always add DCC control later. I find that using the DCC throttle to operate turnouts is a bit awkward no matter which DCC system you are using, usualyl because you have to switch from 'control the train' mode to 'control the turnout' mode and then flip back
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Trackmind
If you do not already have a capacitor discharge system to power the Atlas switch motors it might be a good idea to build or buy one. The CDS keeps you from burning up a motor if a button sticks or you lean on a switch.I built one for less than $10.
Happy Railroading.
Lee
Great news, thank you for responding. What is this CDS you speak of and how would I go about buying or building one?
I did do a search and found some info on the CDS. How many switches could be run off of one of these? I found one online for less then $20 at model train stuff.
The circuit is only discharging when you activate one of the turnouts. The connection in momentary. So, the answer to your question is that it's essentially limitless,
If you have a warehouse-sized layout, you might want several of them just to limit the wiring runs.
There is a short "recharge" time after you throw a turnout before it's ready to throw another one. On my home-made one, it's about a second.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I built mine to put out 30V but that is only for a split second. It will trip two or more turn outs at one time if needed for a cross over. Since building my CDS (cross fingers ) I have not had a failed turn out motor.
Good luck
And you won;t burn one out. Atlas N scale turnouts are rather fragile, or at leas tthey were back int he late 70's when I last did N scale. I was constantly burnign them out, first back when I was much younger and we had a small N layout set up witht he HO at Christmas, when they all had the lever-typew controles, move the lever then push it momentarily int he same sirection to active the turnout motor. Either I held them too long or they stuck - or both. I never burned out an HO one - I knew not to hold the button down. Move on to the late 70's and more Atlas N turnouts, this time with the little blue button controls. I was STILL burning them out - so I build a CD supply and hooked it up. After that - NEVER burnt out another one, even deliberately holding the button too long. The deisgn of those circuits gives a quick high power burst but then limits the current while the button is held to a level that doesn;t even make the switch motors warm. It only recharges when you let go of the button.
For the OP, a CD supply is a super simpel circuit, a great way to get your feet wet in electronics. If you really really don;t want to try your hand, Circuitron makes one, called the Snapper, all assembled and ready to hook up. You just insert it between the power pack and your switch control buttons, 2 wires in, 2 wires out. You'll get more solid operation, they'll really think into position with authority, and never ever have to worry about one of those control buttons sticking and burning up the switch machine.