I just purchased the NCE DCC starter set and I would like to protect the unit from short circuits. Where can I purchase commercial circuit breakers OR is there information on do it yourself projects. I am experienced with electronics. Thanks for ANY help... Art
I neglected to add that my new layout is 4 x 12 and I will more than likely only run two engines at the same time.
Art,
There is a circuit breaker built in to the system. But you are wise to add CB/s between your track and the system. There are several makers but I recommend those by DCC Specialties available at Tony's Train Exchange.
Good luck!
NCE has one specifically for the lower power output of the PowerCab, using light bulbs. The DIY method of using 1156 bulbs won't work because the PowerCab output is below the rating of the 1156 bulb. Dick Bronson actually has a much better variation ont he light bulb method on his RR-CirKits web site, excpet it too is not suitable for the PowerCab. Next option is an electronic type
For a small layout with just one cab, you don't NEED any circuit breaker other than the one in the system itself.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Thanks for the info Roger. I appreciate your information. I checked Tony's Trains and they have a circuit breaker "ONGUARD! OG - CB. Will this work with my NCE Power Cab? Art
Thanks Randy for the info on the NCE bulbs. I am looking at the circuit breaker at Tony's Trains "ONGUARD! OG - CB. As you said , The NCE system has built in protection but more is better or is it overkill. Art
Art.
The on-guard is rated at 3 amps. This is above the Power Cabs output and will not trip. I have had my Power Cab since they came out and have never needed a breaker. When it comes time to expand your empire then a more powerful system and breakers would be the way to go. For right now keep your money and spend it on some railroad things.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
I agree with Pete that the OG-won't be compatible with your PowerCab system. The light bulb circuit breaker by NCE might be a better choice. The PSX series by DCC Specialties would also be work but is probably overkill for the PowerCab.
Thanks Roger, I think that I will stay with the NCE Power Cab built-in breaker as suggested. Your advise is truly appreciated. Art
Thanks Pete, I appreciate your input and will stay with NCE Power Cab's built in breaker. Art
That would be a 1157 bulb. A two element bulb. The 1156 is a single element bulb. In any tail-light bulb you are looking for the XX57 last two numbers. The circuit shows a 2057 bulb used but an 1157 is the same bulb just a different socket.
The way the circuit work is that when a short accurse the light gets enough current to light up. giving the power something to do rather then short out some piece of rolling stock or the power unit. Under normal conditions the bulb does not get enough current to light up until max power is applied. By that time your Loco is flying around the curve and jumping off the tracks taking a swan dive for the floor.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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Thanks Johnny_reb for the update on the bulbs. Do you need to put two 1157 bulbs in SERIES or just one? Art
What I meant is do you put one bulb in each wire or just in one wire. Sorry for the confusion. Art
You can fine tune the auto bulb short protection to work with any layout and system.
Check out Joe Fugate's DCC The good the bad the ugly, on MRH Theater. Segment 4 is where he discusses short management, but the whole clinic is worth watching, IMO.
Thanks for the information on MRH theater. I will definitely check it out this evening. ART
Just remember, the 1157 bulb has a higher current rating than the PowerCab, so they really aren't usable here. By the time the lamp lights up, the internal breaker will kick in and shut off the power. That's why NCE's light bulb circuit breaker uses different bulbs, available as either 1 amp or 1.75 amps. In the case of a short with those, the bulb will light up before the system shuts off, which is the whole point.
I will also restate that light bulbs are a current limiting system, not a protection system. 2 amps still flows through whatever is shorting the track. That may be below the threshold for serious damage, atleast if it is not left that way for hours. If you insist on light bulbs, I suggest lookign at Dick Bronson's RR-CirKits page where the addition of a cheap PTC resistor turns a dual-filament light bulb into a system that will limit the current to under .6 amp in the case of a short yet still allow upt o 2 amps per protected section without tripping. Quite a clever option, and the PTC resistors are only a buck or so, so it's all cheaper than any electronic circuit breaker.
Thanks Randy for your insight to using 1157 bulbs. I appreciate your technical information. I will check out Dick Bronson's RR-ckts. Where do I find his page? ART
Here's the circuit breaker item:
http://www.rr-cirkits.com/Notebook/short.html
Hi Randy, I checked out RR=ckts web site and their notebook page was very helpful! I will be ordering the parts and installing on my layout. Thanks again for your very helpful information. ART