I have an early run of the LifeLike P2K FA2 (it has the rotating fan on top) and would like to convert it to DCC. I also have a later version that says DCC ready because it has a light board pc (doesn't have the rotating fan, but you can barely see it anyhow). Does anyone know if the earlier version just has to be hard wired or is the motor not isolated from the chassis? I can't tell without dismantling it and would rather just replace it with a later version if it is going to be a lot of work. What is involved in isolating the motor if that is the case?
- Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
I am under stern orders from Paul Cutler to not tell you [pardon the split infinitve] that the motor needs to be isolated from the frame on that earlier version, but I would bet a dollar to a dozen donuts that the brushes do.
All kidding aside, I am pretty sure you must break the direct link to the brushes and make sure they are isolated. Run the pick-up wires to the decoder directly, and that will have to be hard-wired...there is no tether or pin connector in those earlier models. Then, the lights will need an analysis to determine what needs to change to them...if anything.
Crandell
Actually, they are OK to just connect a hard-wired decoder.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Life_Like/Proto_2000_FA-2/Proto_2000_FA-2.html
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
thanks Randy, this should be a doable install for me. There isn't any mention of isolating the motor so I assume it is already isolated from the frame. I will also use an LED for the lighting. I haven't selected a decoder yet but am leaning towards an NCE basic one.
I had forgotten about the useful install tutorials on some of the dealers websites. Great info.
Thanks again,
It may not be isolated fromt he frame but since the frame isn't used to pick up power it's still ok.
The P2K FA drive in my MDC RS-3 kit definitely needs the Athearn tratement - there is only 1 wire, fromt he trucks to the top motor clip, the other side comes via the truck bolsters through the frame. What's funny is that it has the flywheel with the groove for the belt to the fan drive. Make sure yours is wired like the one in the TCS photos - it's not really difficult if it's not, you have to do it like an Athearn Blue Box is all, soldering a wire to the bottom clip, removing any tab that contact the frame,a nd putting a layer of tape under the motor.