Okay, I thought I had done it all by the book. I replaced the circuit board of my Spectrum engine with a TSU-1000 steam decoder. I tracked down all of the wires and checked everything twice. Now the engine runs fine but I immediately blew the LED's. So reset the decoder. Checked the wires again. Found where I was wrong and ordered new LED's and 1 K resistors.
The new problem. As soon as I apply power to the engine the rear light comes on full power. The front light comes on dim. This is without pressing function 1. When I press function 1 in reverse I get no change. Light stays on full power, won't turn off. When I press function 1 in forward the dim front light increases to full power. Turn off function 1 and it goes dim again but not off.
Ideas? I've tried moving the resistor to neg. and common decoder lead. No change. Have reset the decoder again. No change.
Thanks.
F1 normally controls the bell, F0 for normal lights. Maybe you've remapped the functions, so if you want it to work as new, do a complete reset(more on this below).
Factory settings are for F0f front light/ F0r for reverse and F5 and F6 are the 2 remaining functions for lights and for modern diesels those two wires are used for ditch lights, then mapped to horn for flashing.
When you reset CV8 to 8. Then verifty CV 33 is 1 and CV34 is 2 per page 25 of the Users Guide. Right after you reset take the loco off power for a bit, then repower and check key CVs and default values. If it's not resetting I would call Soundtraxx. I think there may be another CV for resetting, but I just can't remember it right now. F1 is CV35, it should be 8 to control the bell.
If your CVs are correct, you've probably got some wiring crossed(bare parts accidentally touching?) or maybe even solder bridges. Make sure that each LED has its own resistor--otherwise this can cause some issues with LEDs not behaving properly.
Richard
Your not going to like my answer. When you blew the LED's, it is more than likely you blew the lighting circuits on the Tsunami too. You will have to send to back to SoundTraxx for repair.
Your not going to like my answer.
When you blew the LED's, it is more than likely you blew the lighting circuits on the Tsunami too.
You will have to send to back to SoundTraxx for repair.
I would try the reset first and also re-verify the wiring.
Springfield PA
His first post indicated that he had done a factory reset and also checked the wiring. Could try again. Still think the lighting circuits are bad. When the LED’s blow it usually takes out the circuit. Don’t ask how I know.
His first post indicated that he had done a factory reset and also checked the wiring.
Could try again.
Still think the lighting circuits are bad. When the LED’s blow it usually takes out the circuit. Don’t ask how I know.
OK, a little late. Try to ask questions first. Do not assume with DCC.
There are Gotchas in DCC. Don't believe those who say DCC installs are easy. The installs are easy for those who have done them. Many are not difficult but there are pitfalls awaiting you if you go in blindly.
Below is a link with lots of good DCC info including lighting. There is a lot so take one section at a time.
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn/index.htm
He use Tsunami's.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Okay, tried the resets, checked the wiring again. All was the same. Showing my newbie status at hardwiring here. I've done two before with no sound and 1 light. All was fine. Also, note my mistake on calling it Function 1. I really wasn't using Function 1, I was using 0 or the "Headlight" button on my ProCab.
I'm chalking this one up "expensive things I've learned." I'm guessing I blew the decoder's lighting circuits. So, I wired the LEDs to Function 5 and 6 on the Tsunami and everything works fine. Except, now of course I have to use those function buttons to operate my lights on this particular engine. It will be a good reminder to me in times to come.
Yes, "ask questions first" is the best policy. I searched and read numerous things on line beforehand, even contradictory things. What it came down to was ordering the correct parts and using them correctly before jumping in to the project.
One more lesson learned. You'd think I'd be a genius by now with all the lessons I've learned.
Thanks guys.
Yeah, sometimes called OJT, On the Job Training.
For LED lighting, I use 510 ohm to 1000 ohm resistors.
Some use 22 ohm resistors for 12 volt bulbs for longer life. There is no regulator for headlight rear light connections. This can really take out LED's with a pop.
Some light board type decoders have 1.5 volt connections. No resistor needed. There is a voltage regulator for 1.5 volt connection. The connection cannot be used for LED's. This question pops up on different forums.
There is a decoder with LED connections and no resistor needed.
Try to read the decoder specs first. All the documents are on the SoundTraxx site.
By the way you do not have to use function 5 and 6 for the function outputs. They can be re-mapped the same as the function 0 or any other function.
Here's a link to the users guide
http://www.soundtraxx.com/manuals/Users%20Guide%20Diesel.pdf
Setting the function outputs is easy. Look at the chart on page 24 of the guide.
you have 2 cv's for F0. CV33 is for forward and CV34 is for reverse.
If you want to set FX5 to F0 forward then CV33 should be 16
For FX6 to F0 reverse then CV34 should be 32
For FX5 and 6 to F0 Forward you set CV33 to 48 and so on.
What you do is on the chart, pick everything you want to do for a function and locate the number under it. Add all the numbers associated with the outputs you want and the result goes in that CV.
Good Luck.