Some of you might like this if you do not understand how to use a multimeter or do not want to buy one.
Look in the auto section of Walmart or maybe a auto parts store.
It shows the same brightness with 12 volts DC power packs or my NCE Power Cab DCC system.
Less brightness, less voltage.
Many call it a Go/No Go tester. Many auto mechanics use it as they can keep it nearby and it is quite rugged.
The reason for the ice pick handle is a mechanic can probe right through the insulation of wire. This tool has been around for man years. Just understand its limitations.
"I am sure some rivet counters will be horrified. You really need a $200 meter for accurate measurements. That tool is crude."
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I actually use that tool sometimes as it also draws current.
Train Modeler I actually use that tool sometimes as it also draws current.
Yeah, forgot to mention that. Draws about 220 ma at 12.2 volts DC.
With my NCE Power Cab, 240ma. I see on the cab track power reading.
This tester is a little more convenient than using a 1156 light bulb with wires soldered to the base of the bulb.
Its called a test light. Also known for smoking on board computers in cars when probed into the wrong wires. Stabbing into the insulation on cars and trucks is not a good idea. It gives me something to do later when the wire corrodes away. Back probing a connector is a better way. Some are good for 6, 12, and 24 volt systems. I stopped using a test light about 10 years ago when the logic probes came out and were affordable for 6 to 32 volt systems. My latest one cost $180. Its called a Power Probe III.
http://www.powerprobeonline.com/power-probe-iii.html
I got about fifty feet of extension cable so I can work on trailer lighting while pulling power from the tractor.
Still don't beat a multimeter.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Yeah, that stuff is good but I am thinking of those who want to keep the cost down.
Some use the 1156 bulb with wires soldered to the base but there are those who are not comfortable soldering or do not like soldering at all.
I have learned from the brightness on what is good or not good. Then I sometimes break out the $5.00 digital multimeter, depending on the situation.
My expensive meter is used only for AC current measurements.
Many times I have seen questions on if there is any track voltage, DC or DCC systems.
I am offering a inexpensive alternative.
Most times meters can be totally useless. I did maintenance and troubleshooting on signals and switches. I was issued a multi-meter by my employer and it remained in my locker in it's original packaging until the day I retired. I made a test light using incandesent bulbs for several different voltages from 6V to 120V. Using the test light saved me a lot of time and trouble over using the meter when trying to find the cause of a problem.
Harbor Freight frequently has digital VOMs for as little as $1.99, and they are plenty good enough for model railroad voltage, current, resistance, and continuity measurements.
This may come as a shock to those that know I know at least a little something about electronics (I better, after what it cost me to learn ), but I have like 4 of those cheapy Harbor Freight meters - and they are perfectly adequate for anything related to model railroading. They're fine for anything but ultra precision circuitry. I have them stashed in various locations (including one in my car) so I don't have to run around looking for where I last used it. You simply do not need a more expensive one to check you layout wiring - in fact there are ones that are 10x the cost that use the same chip inside, so they are no different other than perhaps being physically larger. A really accurate top notch meter with lots of features will cost WAY more than the HF models, but are not needed for trains and basical electrical troubleshooting.
I do have a fancy Fluke benchtop meter on my workbench that can do some crazy things like tell the difference in resistence between a 10 foot pieceof wire and a 20 foot piece, but outside of self-amusement, I really don't have a need for those things. I only have it because I got it for free, when new it was close to $300 - I've NEVER built any sort of electronic project at home where such an instrument would be needed and so would never had actually purchased one of these.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Some teenagers might want something simple. Maybe dads doing DCC for kids or Granddad doing DCC for grandchildren and do not understand test equipment.I belong to other forums and see questions about the train not running and they think there is power to the track but do not know how to tell.Some rivet counters would disagree. I have seen disagreements from some in a couple other forums or were just interested in starting an argument.Having been a NASA contractor for fourteen years, Navy contractor for about the same amount of time, industrial machine technician for some years, I used the best and thought everyone should do the same. I forgot how to use the KISS principle.A few years ago I realize simple things like this work very well at least for determining adequate track voltage. If the bulb is dimmer or out as compared to checking a 12 volt DC supply, you know there is a problem
An even easier tester is an automotive bulb DE3022. It looks like an old styleautomotive fuse, glass tube with metal ends. This particular one is used in autos for things like dome lights, etc. but it is just the right length to fit HO track.Draws about 3/8 amp., so puts enough load on to find bad connections. Just don't hold it on too long, the glass bulb can get very warm.
Just know the limitations. Some miss the word, limitations.
There you go, for simple and cheap - A DE3022 bulb, a cheap screwdriver, a fuse holder, and a clip lead with one of the clips cut off. Jumper wire from one terminal of the fuse holder to the shaft of the screwdriver, connect the clip lead to the other terminal. Epoxy the fuse holder to the handle.
I don't understand why you would go through all that trouble to jerry rig a cobbed together item to do a lesser job than a $20 meter. If you don't know how to use the meter, look in the box for the instructions that came with it. If you can't afford a $20 meter, you probably can't afford a model railroad.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow