just wondering what others are useing for milling (cutting) weights ,example I did an install on a atlas rs-3 awhile back and I read to use a belt sander to take the thickness of the speaker off one of the weights(of corse the weight removed from the locco) ,well I only had a belt made more for wood and it took a long time and generated a lot off heat I mean alot .the weights Ive messed with dont cut easy sand easy or drill easy so short of byeing a mill any Ideas ? Jerry
Jerry.
I use a hacksaw for large removals and clean it up with files and a dremel tool. I have also used my 4 inch hand held grinder to remove weight. Belt sanders will generate more heat than cutting. Another alternative is to replace the weight altogether with some lead formed from sheet lead used for flashing.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
On my first install I used a combination of a hacksaw, file and Dremel. I have recently purchased a 6" bench grinder from Sears. It was less than $90. It has two grinding wheels.
Jim, Modeling the Kansas City Southern Lines in HO scale.
I use a four inch diameter sander and keep a glass of cold water nearby. I periodically dip the loco frame in the glass of water to cool it off.
I did a couple Stewart VO-1000 frames this way. Not a big deal.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
I usually resort to some combination of hack saw, Dremel, and flat file. With enough elbow grease and eye protection I can modify just about anything.
You had to file the frame to use LEDs for the lights? Were you also putting sound in or something? My VO-1000's already HAVE LEDs, they are just ugly yellow ones that I unsoldered from the board and replaced with golden whites. Mine are motor-only.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker You had to file the frame to use LEDs for the lights? Were you also putting sound in or something? My VO-1000's already HAVE LEDs, they are just ugly yellow ones that I unsoldered from the board and replaced with golden whites. Mine are motor-only. --Randy
I did not "have" to. I wanted to. I do what works for me. By the way, I unsoldered the JST connector from the Tsunami decoder and soldered in the proper colored wires. Works great. Good soldering station and Optivisor. Done that before if I need the room. More room in the loco. Warranty is not my concern.
The LED plastic holder is quite large compared to just an LED. I needed the clearance for the speaker. I posted that install some months ago. I am surprised you missed it.
Bruce who use to own Litchfield replaced the LED assembly in his VO-1000 installs with a single LED for the same reason. I put his link in my post.
For sound it makes sense. For just a motor decoder, there's no need. I just bent the leads of the golden-white LEDs to the same pattern as the factory ones and snapped them in - I have pictures of mine on my web site.
BIG JERR, I am interested in your install. I am stalled on a similar project in HO. There is not much room under that Atlas RS3 hood! Could you please tell me what decoder you used, what speaker, and where you put the capacitor? I have not attempted to cut the weights yet.
locoi1sa Jerry. I use a hacksaw for large removals and clean it up with files and a dremel tool. I have also used my 4 inch hand held grinder to remove weight. Belt sanders will generate more heat than cutting. Another alternative is to replace the weight altogether with some lead formed from sheet lead used for flashing. Pete
Ditto. My three tools are a hacksaw, file and dremel tool with cutoff wheel. For the dremel tool, use the heavy duty cutoff wheels and make sure you were safety glasses.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
I use a bench grinder, and hold the weight with slip joint pliers, and dip it in water from time to time. You could remove the weight entirely, and either add some lead weights later, or use the unit in a consist, and don't worry about the weight
I did a Tsunami and speaker install in a LL-P1K F3. I masked off the area of the weight to remove and used a lot of Dremel cut-off discs but got the job done. would I do it again? Yah sure, and now that I have done it the next one will be easier and faster. It sure takes a leap of faith to do the first cut on a spendy loco, but the results are worth it! Enjoy the learning curve! John Colley, Port Townsend, WA