Hi all,
I've standardised on Soundtraxx Tsunamis as the decoders for my HOn3 scale layout, however I cannot read back the values in the sound chips on my programming track. I'm using a Digitrax PR3 with JMRI 2.10, and I was wondering if a programming booster would solve this issue? And if so, which would you recommend?
EDIT: I'm looking at the Soundtraxx PTB-100, after doing a bit of research.
Thanks in advance,
tbdanny
The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, OregonThe Year: 1948The Scale: On30The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com
WHat power supply are you using? Try one with a bit higher voltage, the PR3 can take up to 18 volts. That will probably do the trick.
if you simply MUST read back the values, then get the Soundtraxx booster, it seems to work better than the Tony's one.
And this is the reason I DON'T like Tsunamis. The others seem to have figured it out, at least, I can read Loksound, QSI, and Digitrax sound decoders with no problems. I haven't tried a Tsunami. A booster is a crutch for a poor cost-cutting design (how much REALLY can a resistor and diode cost?) . Needign high power onthe program track negates the benefit of it being low power so that you can test an install with low enough power that nothign will fry if wired wrong. Of course you can rig a switch to take the booster out of the circuit but if the decoder won't read without the booster you can;t check it.
Try a higher voltage power supply first, it seems to work. Anotehr PR3 trick, if using JMRI, you can actually turn on track power and it can sort of run a loco - but just turning on the trak power will allow the capacitor to charge, and it might be enough to get it to work.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Using the PR3 as a standalone programmer, I can program (read and write) any decoder I tried with a 19 volt supply (20v max accord to manual) where a 15 volt supply failed.
Using the PR3 as a computer interface you probably need a booster.
Peter
Daniel,
Since you will be using your PR3 in standalone mode, you may want to do as others have suggested and try another power supply. I use an 18v power supply and have no problem reading or writing CVs to QSI or Tsunami decoders.
You will want to be aware of an issue I just came up against when using my PR3 and decoder pro to alter and test sound settings. Long story short, the PR3 turned the sound off on my K-27s during the testing.
For more detail, see this thread.
Vernon in Central Indiana
Thanks for all the advice. Consensus seems to be to go with a higher voltage power supply, and I've managed to locate an 18vDC one with a maximum output of 1000mA, a bit beefier than the current one (15VDC, 500mA). I'll post an update with how it goes.
Thanks again,
Well, I said I'd post an update on how it went with the 18V 1000mA power supply - worked like a charm! Thanks again for all the advice.
Cheers,
Where did you get that 18v/1000ma power supply? Is it a 'wall wart'?
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Jim,
I found it on Ebay;
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380240162183&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Check the no-load voltage before you plug it into your PR3, to be sure it doesn't exceed 20v.
Even if it's a switching power supply, it may exceed 18v if it's lightly loaded (and an idling PR3 will be only a light load to a 1-amp supply...)
But if it stays under the 20v max for the PR3, it looks like it'll otherwise be just fine.
FWIW I just use my old Digitrax Zephyr, it has no problems reading Tsunamis on the programming track.
tbdanny Jim, I found it on Ebay; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380240162183&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Cheers, tbdanny
Unfortunately that plug is not going to fit into any USA wall outlet.
He's in Australia.
rrinker He's in Australia. --Randy
Yes, I know that. But a lot of the readers of this forum are not. I was just pointing out that what works there won't work here.
I imagine this would do the job for an American outlet.
tbdanny I imagine this would do the job for an American outlet.
Don't know for sure without a picture. The end of the cord might have a standard female plug, but what is on the body of the transformer where it plugs into the wall? I guess one could assume that the plug on the x-former is male two prong, but you know what happens when one assumes.
That one is a US company. I doubt they'd be selling something other than US type wall-warts. Radio Shack has an 18V one but it's $26.
Here's the spec sheet. 120VAC input.