Hi.
New guy here. Simple question. Is it wise to use the plastic insulating rail joiners where you need a gap for a block in DCC or for installing a automatic reversing unit or is it better to do it differently? All replies sincerely appreciated.
wdcrvr
Plastic joiners are ugly.
Depending on your environment, you might be able to just cut the gaps with a cutoff disk, razor saw, or jeweler's saw, and leave it at that. Some people fill the gaps with a little piece of styrene, and sand it down to match the rail. That should ensure that even if there is some movement, the gaps stay intact.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
wdcrvr Hi. New guy here. Simple question. Is it wise to use the plastic insulating rail joiners where you need a gap for a block in DCC or for installing a automatic reversing unit or is it better to do it differently? All replies sincerely appreciated. wdcrvr
Is it wise? Let me rephrase. Is it effective? Yes.
But as Vail & SW noted, plastic insulating rail joiners are ugly, ugly, ugly. But, that doesn't stop me from using them. Once the tracks are ballasted, the plastic insulating rail joiners are less noticeable. A more elegant solution is to cut gaps in the rails. But, that takes more effort.
Rich
Alton Junction
Yes insulated joiners are ugly and oversized. I model in N scale the Atlas joiners are very large and stand out. Peco Insulated joiners are smaller (don't know about HO) and made of clear plastic so they don't stand out and you really have to look for them. I use them on the Electrofrog switches and if the end of a rail is where I want an Insulated joint. Otherwise I use a dremmel to cut a gap in the rail and either insert a piece of styreen and use CA or just use gap filling CA. I also want to know where these joints are so I use a little dab of red paint on them to mark their location. I worked as a Signal Maintainer for the NYCTA and we painted the insulated joints and switch rod insulation with a red insulating paint so there is a prototype for that step.
Contrarian me, I'm in HO and I use the Atlas insulated joiners - Years ago they were like a bright orange or yellow color, and REALLY stuck out like a sore thumb. The ones I have now are all clear. Barely visible. They don't hold track in alignment as well as a metal joiner so all the insulated gaps are on straight sections of track - but cutting through the track with a Dremel isn't going to hold the track in alignment as well as metal joiners either.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Contrarian me, I'm in HO and I use the Atlas insulated joiners - Years ago they were like a bright orange or yellow color, and REALLY stuck out like a sore thumb. The ones I have now are all clear. Barely visible. They don't hold track in alignment as well as a metal joiner so all the insulated gaps are on straight sections of track - but cutting through the track with a Dremel isn't going to hold the track in alignment as well as metal joiners either. --Randy
I'm in HO and with Randy and others on this. I use Atlas insulated joiners rather than just gaps. The joiners have a small center piece that prevents the rails from sliding together.
Some do that with styrene after cutting gaps, the joiners seem so much simpler to me - but then again my trackwork is well planned in advance and I know just where they are needed.
And something holding the rail is better than nothing.
Sheldon
I, too, use the clear plastic joiners.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Count me in the Use insulated rail joiners camp. My layout environment is conducive to rail creep, so there has to be something solid in the gap to keep it open - and it has to stay in the gap and in alignment with the rails.
Actually, those big, ugly, orange insulated rail joiners have a prototype! I found it in a local industrial area, in the closure rail of a turnout with its points just clear of a signaled grade crossing. A little additional research found that they're also available in black and baby blue!!!
Let's hear it for prototypical accuracy.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I've used both methods - The clear Atlas HO joiners, and a gap cut in the rail with styrene ACC'ed in place and filed to match the rail's profile. Depending on the situation, either method can work well.
That said, during my current layout reconstruction, I planned for gaps where I could use the insulated joiners. With five power districts and two reversing sections I haven't regretted that decision.
Tried them, hated the look. Not great on curves...no, horrible on curves.
Now I just gap the rails. If your rails are secure on their roadbed, and if you have a few sliding joiners and a few gaps around your rail system, you should not encounter rails closing the gaps. Code 100 N/S rails expand by only 1/4" during a 30 degree temperature rise across a contiguous length of a whopping 100' of rails. Nothing at all. It is the moisture in the underlying frame elements if they are wood that is the problem. So, leave gaps of about 1/16" here and there and you should never experience problems. I'm no whiz at track laying, but I don't/won't use those wretched things and don't seem to have to miss them....ever.
I like them. As other have said, simple, quick, and effective. I am using Atlas track and parts, including the insulated rail joiners. They do tend to fade somewhat into the ballast, but I don't notice them that much on the construction zone section of the layout. If you're using flex and sectional track, I think they're the way to go.
Emman
selector Tried them, hated the look. Not great on curves...no, horrible on curves. Now I just gap the rails. If your rails are secure on their roadbed, and if you have a few sliding joiners and a few gaps around your rail system, you should not encounter rails closing the gaps. Code 100 N/S rails expand by only 1/4" during a 30 degree temperature rise across a contiguous length of a whopping 100' of rails. Nothing at all. It is the moisture in the underlying frame elements if they are wood that is the problem. So, leave gaps of about 1/16" here and there and you should never experience problems. I'm no whiz at track laying, but I don't/won't use those wretched things and don't seem to have to miss them....ever.
Well, for the record, as others mentioned, I never put gaps on curves, even back in the day when I just used gaps.
And ALL my metal rail joints are soldered - never had any expansion problems. BUt, I have had rail "move" and close up gaps.
But you can have gaps on curves if you wish. The way to do that is to mechanically bend the rails so that when they spring back they actually stay curved very near the radius you wish to impart in that place.
I have temperature swings between 50 deg F and 85 deg F in my basement seasonally. I have gapped Fast Tracks frogs where I used a very thin filament jeweler's saw to make the gaps. I also have many intentional gaps where I filed the rail end just a bit to leave one after measuring. These are quite narrow. None of mine have closed...ever. I use Code 100 N/S held by a thin layer of acrylic latex caulk on MDF splines. That and ballast, but the rails won't be affected by the ballast.
Crandell
i've done the slit the rail method and then filled the gap with 5 minute epoxy, keep an eye on it and when it has gone to jelly just trim it up with a sharp scalpel.
I would HOPE the Fast Tracks gaps don't close up - if they are put where they are supposed to be, the track to eaither side is solidly soldered to PC board ties - it CAN'T move in the direction that would close the gap, unless the solder joint broke loose.
Given, I've NEVER had any rail gap issues due to changing conditions. My current layotu is in a regualr room off the apartment, with heat and air conditioning, but my previous layotu was in an unfinished basement that even with a space heater and dehumidifier had rather drastic shifts through the year. However, building on extruded foam pretty much prevented any movement of the underlying substructure that could close gaps up and cause kinking of the rail - the rail itself jsut doesn't move that much.
At the club I used to belong to, one whole section right at the main entrance had to be redone come winter. The benchwork was built (heavy duty 2x4 construction, plywood, and homasote) and track laid during the hottest humiod part of the summer, the door was usually open since there was no air conditioning. Come winter, dry air, and the large ceilign mounted gas fired heaters, the track kinked up really bad and sections had to be removed to make enough room to get it all flat again.