Solid uninsulated copper wires

[Motley]

OK so I picked up this new radio tower with working lights. It's a Busch.

And it has 3 solid uninsulated copper wires coming out of the bottom, and going to a small electrical unit device, and then has a 2 wire output to goes to the AC/DC power supply.

I needed to extend those 3 copper wires so I could fish it through the foam layer of the layout base. So I tried using regular stranded insulated wire. And it didn't work.

So I just picked up some uninsulated copper wire from radio shack during lunch. When I get home I sure hope it works?

My question, how does the function of uninsulated copper wire differ from regular insulated stranded wire? Also, when the uninsulated copper wires touch each other, why don't they short out?

I appreciate the wisdom from the wiring experts here.

 

Michael

[TomDiehl]

The simple answer to both the lack of short question and the not working when you tried to extend the wire; it is insulated. Transformer and motor winding wire appears to be uninsulated but in fact it is insulated with a clear varnish coating.

[Jacktal]

My experience with electricity tells me there's something you should investigate before you attempt feeding any power to this.I don't know this particular item but you say it's new so there should be some instructions coming with it.If not,dig a little further (may be a Google search,or a local electronics store).In my mind,just as you say,uninsulated wires bundled together don't smell good and may smell even worse under power.

[desertdog]

As pointed out, the wires that come from the tower are insulated.  Busch uses the same kind of wire on their grade crossing signals. I would use very small diameter solid wire (#26 or smaller).  Twist the three wires together so that you can poke them through the hole in the foam.  Solder the connections and carefully pull the whole thing taut from under the layout.

John Timm 

 

[Motley]

desertdog

As pointed out, the wires that come from the tower are insulated.  Busch uses the same kind of wire on their grade crossing signals. I would use very small diameter solid wire (#26 or smaller).  Twist the three wires together so that you can poke them through the hole in the foam.  Solder the connections and carefully pull the whole thing taut from under the layout.

John Timm 

 

 

Oh really? So when I solder the wire extensions, do I need to wrap those with eleicrical tape where the soldered connections are?

This is the wire I picked up at radio shack today. wire

Thanks for the help!

[superbe]

Motley

so I could fish it through the foam layer

Hi Michael,

When I wired my switch machines I made a hole big enough for the wires through the foam and plywood Then I taped the smaller wires to a piece of solid wire and fed it through the hole pulling them through. Hope this helps.

Happy Railroading

Bob

[Seamonster]

As others have pointed out, the "bare" wires are covered with clear varnish which insulates them. First, use a knife blade to scrape about 1/2" of varnish off the ends of the wires. You will be able to tell the difference between the varnished portion and the scraped portion. The wire you got from R.S. is uninsulated. Don't use it. Buy some insulated stranded wire. Remove about 1/2" of insulation off the end, twist it together with the scraped end of the Busch wire and solder. Cover the joint with tape or shrink tubing because it's bare and could short out to something.

[Seamonster]

Almost forgot. I have 2" foam on my layout and for getting wires through it, I drill a small hole down though the foam and the underlying plywood. Then I fish the wires through a piece of drinking straw about 4" long salvaged from a fast food milkshake (it's bigger than a regular straw), poke that down the hole, reach underneath and pull the straw away. Works quite well.

[Motley]

Seamonster

As others have pointed out, the "bare" wires are covered with clear varnish which insulates them. First, use a knife blade to scrape about 1/2" of varnish off the ends of the wires. You will be able to tell the difference between the varnished portion and the scraped portion. The wire you got from R.S. is uninsulated. Don't use it. Buy some insulated stranded wire. Remove about 1/2" of insulation off the end, twist it together with the scraped end of the Busch wire and solder. Cover the joint with tape or shrink tubing because it's bare and could short out to something.

 

Wait a minute, wait a minute, when I originally tried soldering the regular insulated stranded wire to the solid copper wires on the unit, it did NOT work. 

Confused???

[Motley]

But when I soldered them, I didn't scrape off the ends of the solid copper wire, so maybe that caused it not to work?

[cacole]

If you don't scrape the insulating varnish off the wire, solder does not stick to it and the heat of the soldering iron does not burn it off.

[Seamonster]

Motley

But when I soldered them, I didn't scrape off the ends of the solid copper wire, so maybe that caused it not to work?

You got it!!! Solder won't stick to varnish. Scrape it off the ends carefully and don't leave any behind for that half inch.

[Motley]

It works! it works! it works!!!!

OK so I scraped the ends, soldered and taped them, and used the insulated wire that I already had. Thank god you guys told me not to use that uninsulated wire that I just got, I would have fried something!

I really appreciate the help with this!!!

The reason I got this was to break up the Mountain and Railyard backdrops, I think it looks really cool. I like how it flashes 2 lights on, and then 1 light interchanging, like the prototype radio towers.

Here's a pic...

 

[Hamltnblue]

Good to see you got it going. Basically whenever you see what looks like uninsulated wires, check for a shine from clear insulation.  Another thing that gives it away is the copper will look clean and new.  It wouldn't normally after being exposed to the air.

[Seamonster]

Glad you got it going and glad we all could help.