I've been messing around with various DCC options for my Athearn P42 locomotives. (They are DCC ready and include a 9 pin plug).
The obvious easy route is to simply plug a decoder into the 9 pin plug. I'm looking at installing sound and planned to use Loksound, but now that Soundtraxx has a pretty good FDL-16, I might go with that as I really like Tsunami.
I recently converted my Athearn Genesis F3 ABBA set to Soundtraxx Tsunami using the board designed for Genesis locos. What a great improvement over the factory MRC sound. Expensive to do, but well worth it after hearing the difference and seeing the improvement in motor operation.
So while I was installing the sound boards to the F units, I tested one of the boards on an Athearn P42. Although the board obviously isn't designed to mount to the RTR P42 and the 567 sound was all wrong, for testing purposes, the loco operated very nicely. And it was very easy to wire.
I also like the idea of using the Soundtraxx Tsunami boards designed for Genesis locos since the light outputs are already set for the 1.5 volt bulbs Athearn uses. And yes I plan to continue to use the bulbs vs LEDs, because after testing both I prefer the bulbs. They are easy to replace too if they burn out so that is not a big issue for me.
The way the Athearn P42 is wired is interesting and this is what my question deals with.
The frame carries one side of the rail power. I'm guessing this is why you have to "isolate the motor from the frame" on many old loco DCC conversions since the frame carries one side of the power.
Is this a good way to carry the power? Or should I solder directly to the trucks if possible (two wires from either side instead of the single wire that is there now)? My Genesis F3s all have two wires coming from the trucks, which seems a better way to do it.
If I do solder feeders directly from the trucks, power will still be carried through the frame. So this might cause some issues.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks on a good way to wire this loco (or other RTR locos if they are similar) so the power pickup is consistent?
As it is now, with the fame picking up one side of the power, the loco runs fine. Should I just keep it as is and let the frame carry power?
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
Matt,
I have two P42s like you are describing. I removed the light board and bulbs and hardwired LEDs. I have Loksounds in them and they are wired with the frame powered. I have had no trouble with both of them and the motor control in Loksound decoders are great.
Will
Thanks for the info Will.
I actually have a Loksound decoder set with special sounds for a P42 (some I helped to get), but wasn't so sure about the light outputs (1.5 ready or if I need resistors). I also need an expensive Lokprogramer so I'm not sure if I'll go the Loksound route or not yet. However being able to customize the sounds is a real plus with Loksound...especially to someone like myself who has traveled Amtrak countless times and knows how a P42 should sound.
I'll pull out the Loksound decoder and see how it operates and report back.
Matt
I converted all my old Athearns a long time ago and wired the trucks both side to the decoders. The frame to truck connections rely on gravity and cleanliness to transfer power. Running wires to the trucks side frame eliminates a potential power loss. Not so bad with a motor only decoder but losing power to a sound decoder could be annoying. The frame still will have one side rail power but isolating the motor brush contacts is a must do on any old Athearn conversion.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Thanks all for the info.
So I'll go ahead and solder wires to the truck sideframes instead of using the traditional Athearn way. Sounded better to me and seems to be better from what's been posted.
I think I'm also going to repower them since these will be my mainline power used almost all the time. Might as well spend the time and money to get them right rather then suffer problems down the road. And I might as well add NWSL nickel silver wheels...that is when the kind I need are back in stock.
By the way, the Loksound decoder worked great. I forgot how nice the sound set was, espcially with the bass reflex speaker I have for it. But I'll still need the Lokprogramer sometime down the road as some sounds need special customizing still that only the Lokprogramer can do.
The light output was not so great though. I used a 1K resistor but with it the test bulb was too dim. Without the resistor the test bulb blew out. So I'm going to have to figure out the exact power output and get the right resistor. My guess is maybe a 680 or slightly higher.
David,
I noticed you recommend the LokSelect. I didn't even know about this decoder and Googled to find out more about it. I see it is Loksound's new decoder. Are there any advantages to it versus the 3.5? I have a 3.5.
I thought it over and the heat that bulbs produce might be an issue if I ever brought these locos to a display layout and they ran and ran all day. And they are bound to burn out quicker then LEDs.
So I decided to go with LEDs. Here's what it looks like with four surface mount LEDs for the headlight and ditch light. They are golden white.