NCE PowerCab 2 Amp DCC Starter Set

[dsabourne]

Cooped

OK, the Powercab arrived today. Plugged it in and off we go. even programmed a couple of loco numbers and tried changing start voltage. Very happy.

Dan

Congrats Dan ... you're way ahead of me ... I still need to get the layout back together ... maybe getting some locos converted and then purchase my own PowerCab.

Jealous,

David Bourne

[Hamltnblue]

 Why wait?  You can run a short run while re-building

[CSX Robert]

richhotrain

maxman

tstage

You could get a 12' or 40' cable, if you wanted to.

 

Are we sure about this?  The PowerCab instructions suggest that the track bus wire should be #18 for runs to 25 feet, and #16 for runs to 50 feet.  I don't think the flat wire has that heavy wire gage...or does it?

maxman,

So, are you saying that 7 feet is it? 

If true, that would be a real disadvantage for the Power Cab.

Rich

I definitely would not use any longer cable than what comes with the Power Cab(unless you make one yourself with heavier gauge wire). Those cables generally have 26 or 28 gauge wire in them and, as has been mentioned, that cable provides track power( I have heard, but don't know if it is true, that the one that comes with the Power Cab is made with a heavier gauge wire). Also note that you have the raw DC power going to the Power Cab and the DCC track power coming back from the Power Cab, so you have the track power passing through the cable TWICE(actually four times if you consider the complete trip - raw DC to Power Cab, DCC to track, DCC back to Power Cab, raw DC back to power supply). In other words, every foot you add to the Power Cab cable adds two feet between the power supply and track.

[tstage]

Rich,

I should have prefaced my earlier statement.   Yes, you could get a longer cable for your Power Cab.  However, besides the reasons already given by Robert and others, a longer cable would also become a real trip hazard.

As far as a 7' cable being a "disadvantage", I look at it from a different perspective.  Depending on where you place your PCP panel (the one that comes with the Power Cab), that would give you an overall 14' "swing" - i.e. 7' either way.  An additional UTP panel (daisy-chained to the back of the PCP panel) and another cab could be used to fill in the gaps.

Or, you would go the "updated" Smart Booster route and increase your total power output (from 1.7A to 5A) and recall stack (from 2 to 6) at the same time.

Choices, choices, choices...

Tom

[richhotrain]

tstage

Rich,

I should have prefaced my earlier statement. Yes, you could get a longer cable for your Power Cab.  However, besides the reasons already given by Robert and others, a longer cable would also become a real trip hazard.

As far as a 7' cable being a "disadvantage", I look at it from a different perspective.  Depending on where you place your PCP panel (the one that comes with the Power Cab), that would give you an overall 14' "swing" - i.e. 7' either way.  An additional UTP panel (daisy-chained to the back of the PCP panel) and another cab could be used to fill in the gaps.

Or, you would go the "updated" Smart Booster route and increase your total power output (from 1.7A to 5A) and recall stack (from 2 to 6) at the same time.

Choices, choices, choices...

Tom

Tom,

I will share the blame.

Instead of asking, wouldn't you be able to replace the 7' cable with a longer one to allow even greater freedom to move around the layout, I should have asked, could you replace the 7' cable with a longer one to allow even greater freedom to move around the layout? 

Rich

 

[flyboy10]

 

just got mine today ive been having trouble setting up but i have heard good things about it

[tstage]

flyboy,

Make sure you plug your Power Cab into the LEFT connector jack of the PCP panel.  (That's the side that's powered.)  The RIGHT jack is for an additional throttle.

Tom