Have a HO Proto 2000 SD7. The circuit board has a DCC plug. Most decoder installs that I have found call for a 8/9 pin harness with a standard decoder similiar to a T1. However, the board in the SD7 is labeled as SD9. There is a wire labeled "cut for DCC" that I assumed should be cut. The installs that I have been researching don't mention this wire.
Any recommendations? Another question: Can harnesses from one manufacturer be used with decoders from a different manufacturer? Thanks for aby help that can be provided
If it is an 'old' P2K engines, there was a 'light board' that one had to cut the circuit traces and solder decoder leads to. The ones I have are 'DCC Ready' - they have a 'light board' with a 8 pin NMRA connector. I suspect this is what you have(SD9 COMP. SIDE printed on the light board). The 8 pin socket is about 2/3rds of the way back - the plug just pulls up. The Digitrax DH163L0 or DH165L0 should fit, or use a decoder with a JST(9 pin) to 8 pin harness.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
It is the "SD9 Comp Side" Do I have to cut the wire? Are the bulbs going to blow either way?
One of the nice features of the Digitrax decoder is that it comes from the factory with built in resistors for use with the factory Proto 2000 1.5v bulbs or LEDs. Some of the other decoders require an additional resistor to use the factory lighting or you have to change the bulbs to 12-14v.
Just pull the plug and insert the decoder - the Digitrax ...L0 series decoders have built in resistors for the P2K engines.
The DH165LO is just under 3 inch in length. The light board is 4 inches. Will the wiring reach?
Paxton, you sure there is no spot to plug in a decoder? I have a PK 2 SD-7 and did not cut any thing, just plugged in a DH 163! There are spots on the board that says cut here, but that is for soldering in a decoder. If you like I can post a picture of my SD-7 decoder install.
Reason board says SD-9, in the model world they look the same and are the same model. In the real world inside of the engine was the differences, out side they looked the same.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
There is a spot to plug in a decoder. I just don't know if the jumper wire has to be cut. I have a T1 and a harness that I will try. Just don't want to have smoke. I am assuming that the lights don't have to be changed.
There is no light modification IF the decoder has the correct resistors on it. That is why I mentioned the DH163L0 or DH165L0 models. Check with the manufacturer about compatabilityl I friend plugged DH123 decoders into his P2K SD7's and they work fine - just no lights. Not sure if he burned them out on the first run or if they just are not getting any 'juice'.
I plugged in a T1 (what I had in hand) with a 3" harness. Did not cut the "cut for DCC" jumper wire. Both lights work and dim in reverse. Thanks for all of the help.
Your more then welcome.
Ken
would love to see a photo of you Proto 2000 sd7 install, Thanks Ray W
Top one, plug into P2K board. A DP2X did not fit under the shell, needed to run a harness and 9-pin decoder as shown.
Bottom, replace board with TCS A4X. Bottom one runs better.
Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com
Here's my SD-7 install. Hard wired with a TCS T-1, none of that silly circuit board stuff. I also replaced the bulbs with yelo-glo LEDs and 1K resistors.
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Would help if I posted the correct image size
I have a p2k SD9 with a 8 pin dummy plug, I bought a Digitrax 165LO but it will not snap into slot of dummy plug due to some resistors or something else on the light board. Will a 165IP be my next step?
Thanks, Ray W
csxmodelrailroading.blogspot.com
I just put the SDH164D in one of mine and found the sd7 very roomy compared to the gp9s ,but still opted to delete the proto board ,dont really see a reason to keep it in there ,and I change the lighting any how to leds
with the prices of the newer p2k w/sound &dcc coming out going ($$$)thru the roof .and decoders reasonably priced /w sound like the digitrax sdh164d Ive decided to equip the older stuff ,Ive picked up the the new old stock sd-7 s for under 50$ add dcc/sound 40 $ and I'm pleased with the results...
the older SD7 is a great hard wire learning project,need a magnifier ,a nice low wattage fine solder iron and a bit a Patience and it s very rewarding ,ether sound or no sound...Jerry
rayman14085 I have a p2k SD9 with a 8 pin dummy plug, I bought a Digitrax 165LO but it will not snap into slot of dummy plug due to some resistors or something else on the light board. Will a 165IP be my next step? Thanks, Ray W Ray: You have to remove the light board and the DH165 LO plugs into the 8 pin socket. If you try to leave the light board the DH165LO won't fit. Joe csxmodelrailroading.blogspot.com
Ray:
You have to remove the light board and the DH165 LO plugs into the 8 pin socket. If you try to leave the light board the DH165LO won't fit.
Joe
I decided to necropost,because anybody got a link
To buy a T1p-MH decoder for my proto 2k SD7