I did some searching in the archives first. Someone mentioned a sound chassis photo at the Bowser site but I could not find it.
I am considering purchasing a Stewart VO-1000 at the Big E show in a few weeks as the Bowser/Stewart people will be there. I understand they use the LokSound decoders in their VO-1000's from an archive search. The Bowser site has a SoundTraxx link though. I did not see or recognize a suitable decoder at the Litchfield site but I have only used steam decoders until recently. The engine I am sure you all know is a 1000 hp diesel. I guess with no blower. Don't know if they did "notching". Another option. I have the chance to buy a Stewart right now for $60.00, DCC ready and install my own LokSound, another $130.
That would require stripping the frame and doing some cutting. I do not care to mess with a fine running frame though.
I recently did that with a Spectrum 70 ton using the VO-660 Micro. Thanks for any suggestions. Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Check the ESU site for a list of their sound files. They have several Baldwin sound files, but I think all of them are for 606SC (supercharged) prime movers. They also have some for a 600 series NA prime mover, but it's a 6-cylinder instead of an 8. Honestly you probably can't tell with the speakers in HO. I'd go witht he 6-cylinder NA over the supercharged, the supercharger whine would be a distinct sound you CAN hear.
Baldwins had air throttles with 20 or so steps. not 8 notches There are still a few runnign Baldwin switchers with Baldwin prime movers, search Youtube and you will find some videos of them to get an idea of what they sound like. Completely different from EMD, Alco, or GE.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
If you can access a LokProgrammer, you can configure how many throttle "steps" there are, and when they change. I find this is easier using the "diesel-hydraulic" setting as opposed to the "diesel-electric" for some reason.
I have a P2K Alco S1 that I have set up to notch every 3 speed steps (on a 28 step scale) with the speed curve tapering off near the top and the top voltage set to a maximum speed of about 45 MPH.
This makes for an extremely satisfying experience as I am in run 5 or 6 and going about 30, and the next few notches increase the motor load but don't add much speed.
The LokSound also does a GREAT job of letting the RPM "spool up" before the speed changes (even without too much momnetum), and letting the RPM drop to idle before the loco slows, just like every prototype I've ever seen.
This is especially nice with Alco and Baldwin prime movers.
I couldn't find a picture either, but the chassis with Soundtraxx / Tsunami sound is:
Baldwin VO-1000 #691-1217 Powered ($199.95 list price)
http://www.bowser-trains.com/Stewart/Stewart%20Sound%20Chassis.htm
One trick about adding sound is whenever possible, use a lightboard replacement decoder. That takes up no more room than the original lightboard, so all you need to do is find space for a speaker. With the speaker, it's certainly good to put the biggest possible in there, but I've found a properly enclosed 1/2" round or 1/2" by 3/4" oval speaker will work fine in a tight space.
Thanks all for the replies. Below is what I just received from Bowser.
Quote:
Interesting that they are switching. I DO hope that was just an error in the crrent issue of Model Railroad News in the review of the Athearn MP15AC where they said the Soundtraxx decoders do not support CV5 and CV6 for top and mid speed adjustment. BAD BAD if they left that out.
davidmbedard Have you considered the LokSound Select? If you use model number 73405, you get to select from 3 different prime movers. It is also much cheaper than the 3.5. The big advantage of the select is the fact that it uses an 8ohm speaker. That way, you are not limited by the 100ohm choices of the 3.5 line of decoders. A Tony's trains Micro-Speaker (14x20mm) and baffle will fit if you do a bit of milling on the front of the chassis. Conversely, you can find an 8ohm speaker to fit in the cab interior (replacing the cab interior) to give you deeper sound. Not to mention the addition of a capacitor.Until soundtraxx releases their Baldwin soundset in their Tsunami line, this is the best available. David B
Have you considered the LokSound Select? If you use model number 73405, you get to select from 3 different prime movers. It is also much cheaper than the 3.5. The big advantage of the select is the fact that it uses an 8ohm speaker. That way, you are not limited by the 100ohm choices of the 3.5 line of decoders. A Tony's trains Micro-Speaker (14x20mm) and baffle will fit if you do a bit of milling on the front of the chassis. Conversely, you can find an 8ohm speaker to fit in the cab interior (replacing the cab interior) to give you deeper sound. Not to mention the addition of a capacitor.
Until soundtraxx releases their Baldwin soundset in their Tsunami line, this is the best available.
David B
I have been considering the Select. One of the sounds, 73405 is Baldwin VO 6 cyl diesel. After some searching, the VO-1000 had 8 cyl diesels.
Not sure if I am being too picky. I have the LokSound Micro with VO-660 sound in a 70 ton, 660 hp Baldwin. Might not be much different than a 1000 hp Baldwin but as I said before, no experience with diesels as all I have used for some years is steam.
At least SoundTraxx seems to be trying to get actual sound.
Rich
I just received this from an online DCC dealer. Interesting.
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I was looking on the QSI web site for something else and noticed that the Baldwin sounds are not yet available.
Didn't think I was so far behind!
So, the only folks out there who are calling their sound set as being a Baldwin VO-1000 is LokSound 72451 which is what Stewart has abandoned in favor of the Tsunami!
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davidmbedard rrinker Interesting that they are switching. I DO hope that was just an error in the crrent issue of Model Railroad News in the review of the Athearn MP15AC where they said the Soundtraxx decoders do not support CV5 and CV6 for top and mid speed adjustment. BAD BAD if they left that out. --Randy Tsunamis have never used CV 5 or 6. They are geared towards the 28 step speed table. I agree that this is a disapointment, but for people with JMRI, this is a non-issue. David B
rrinker Interesting that they are switching. I DO hope that was just an error in the crrent issue of Model Railroad News in the review of the Athearn MP15AC where they said the Soundtraxx decoders do not support CV5 and CV6 for top and mid speed adjustment. BAD BAD if they left that out. --Randy
Tsunamis have never used CV 5 or 6. They are geared towards the 28 step speed table. I agree that this is a disapointment, but for people with JMRI, this is a non-issue.
I use JMRI and it's NOT a non-issue, the 28 step speed tables don;t work in 128SS mode. I set ALL of my locos so that they start on speed step 1 or 2, and limit the top speed to something reasonably prototypical. I then use CV6 to set the mid to tune the range - more low end range for switchers, more range at road speed for road units. Beats making speed curves, even with JMRI, for every loco. And I get to keep 128 speed steps for fine control.
I was only questioning as the LokSound seems to be the 6 cyl diesel. The VO-1000 had 8 cyl 1000 hp diesels. Probably not a big deal as the speaker is so small, only a nit picker might know the difference.
SoundTraxx is going to be recording sound of a VO-1000 at the SMS RR in NJ.
http://yardlimit.railfan.net/baldwin/vo/index.html
I purchased a pair of Stewart VO1000s without sound about a year ago and installed the Loksound 3.5 decoder and the largest oval speaker that would sit flat in the body. It did take a little cutting of the frame (I placed it over the front truck with the top of the speaker enclosure just barely higher than the original frame). I then routed the wheel pickup wires through the speaker enclosure so that they don't bind. The metal pieces that I removed to mount the speaker were small enough to turn on their side and glue into the cab where they are not readily visible unless you look for it. With the wires rolled flat under the decoder, and the decoder sitting on top of the light board, the shell fits down on the frame perfectly.
All in all, the model was fairly easy to disassemble and reassemble with the help of the included diagrams. I have been very pleased with the performance of the decoders and engines and would recommend them both. If I were better at soldering, I would probably shorten the wires so they aren't under the decoder, but I'm not confident enough that I wouldn't end up with the wires uneven or too short to fit properly. As this was my first attempt to make any kind of dcc installation and frame modification, I would rate the overall process as easy to moderate, if a little time consuming (give yourself several hours if you are using hand tools).
mcalisi I purchased a pair of Stewart VO1000s without sound about a year ago and installed the Loksound 3.5 decoder and the largest oval speaker that would sit flat in the body. It did take a little cutting of the frame (I placed it over the front truck with the top of the speaker enclosure just barely higher than the original frame). I then routed the wheel pickup wires through the speaker enclosure so that they don't bind. The metal pieces that I removed to mount the speaker were small enough to turn on their side and glue into the cab where they are not readily visible unless you look for it. With the wires rolled flat under the decoder, and the decoder sitting on top of the light board, the shell fits down on the frame perfectly. All in all, the model was fairly easy to disassemble and reassemble with the help of the included diagrams. I have been very pleased with the performance of the decoders and engines and would recommend them both. If I were better at soldering, I would probably shorten the wires so they aren't under the decoder, but I'm not confident enough that I wouldn't end up with the wires uneven or too short to fit properly. As this was my first attempt to make any kind of dcc installation and frame modification, I would rate the overall process as easy to moderate, if a little time consuming (give yourself several hours if you are using hand tools).
That sounds really good. Do you have any photos of the installs you could post? When I did the 44 ton and 70 ton Spectrum LokSound installs, I posted some photos for others using Photo Bucket. The 44 ton required some frame modification. I have always believed a photo is worth a thousand words. Thanks.