Last night, I was trying to install two Atlas remote turnouts on my layout and ran into a problem. I can get the switch to move in one position with the proper push of the switch button, but it won't return or go to the alternate position when I push on the switch button again. When I repeat my attempt to get the switch to the alternate position, the remote gets warm. One of them got so warm, it melted. Junk?
That aside, what would cause an Atlas remote turnout (or switch) to only work in one position change? I'm looking for those who may have experienced the same thing. I don't want to burn up another $18 remote turnout.
Thanks for any advice you can give me.
Mark
Does your statement "when I push THE switch button again" mean you are only using one button? If so you need two buttons, one for each direction.
Consider a capacitor dischage unit for you power source and you will not burn up the switch motors.
Sorry. You're right. When I move the switch button to the opposite position and then push down to change the pisition of the switch, the switch does not move to the alternate position.
If you're using those Atlas push button switch controllers, they are sometimes known to be extremely unreliable. They stick in one position or the other and burn out switch motors. A different type of switch would be advisable. I use momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) toggle switches if I must use an Atlas twin coil machine.
Some simple troubleshooting is in order. Two different methods, depending on if you have a multimeter or not. You should do this after you check that you wired it correctly (First rule of troubleshooting, look for the obvious. Never assume you did it right every time).
If you have a meter, touch the leads to the two terminals for the leads connecting the power pack to the switch button. This reading will tell you what voltage you should read in the next steps. Touch the leads to the center and right terminals going out to the switch. Slide the button to the right and press down. You should get the same reading (or near it) as your first reading. Touch the leads to the center and left terminals, slide the button to the left, press down. Same reading. If you don't get the readings at both positions of the switch button, you have a bad control and need to replace it. If you do get readings at both, take your meter to the switch machine and repeat the test at the terminals on the switch machine. If you get voltage with both tests, you have a bad switch machine. If not, you have a wiring problem.
If you don't have a meter, note which way the switch will throw with the remote, and which side of the switch button works. Swap the two outer leads at the switch button and see if the switch will throw. If the problem is the same, swap the leads at the switch machine. You'll have to get back to me with what you find, there's a lot of permutations to this.
I love your approach to the problem. I will try that tonight. I admittedly don't have a meter, since most of my connections have been sucessful. So, I will try your Plan B with the wire exchanges. I will also make sure my connections are accurate in the first place. Never assume anything...you're right!
I have a VERY strong feeling the problem rests with the controller as the switch is brand new, out of the package, and the controller was installed last year. Hard to explain, but I added a turnout to my original layout from last year and have moved some things around.
Hopefully, you have saved my sanity on this.
cacole If you're using those Atlas push button switch controllers, they are sometimes known to be extremely unreliable. They stick in one position or the other and burn out switch motors. A different type of switch would be advisable. I use momentary (ON)-OFF-(ON) toggle switches if I must use an Atlas twin coil machine.
I'd be very surprised if the problem was not the Atlas pushbutton unit. These have a poor reliability record. I never planned to use them, but I did have a few wired in as temporary controllers while I was in the early stages of construction. At least one failed right out of the box, and I think another one failed in service. A small SPDT momentary toggle will cost about a dollar, and takes up much less space than an Atlas button. It will be far more reliable.
This link http://www3.sympatico.ca/kstapleton3/751D.HTM is a pre-assembled module with protection circuitry and constant-on contacts for indicator LEDs built in. I've never tried one, but it seems like a reasonable solution to several problems all at once, for $8.
Finally, the capacitive discharge circuit. Yes, get one or make one. It's an excellent "get your feet wet" small electronics project, fundamentally just 2 capacitors and 2 resistors, if you already have a DC power supply running your turnouts. Add a bridge rectifier if you're using AC for your turnouts. "Get your feet wet," of course, is a figure of speech, and I would expect you to NOT stand in a puddle of water while doing electrical circuitry.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
wingman I love your approach to the problem. I will try that tonight. I admittedly don't have a meter, since most of my connections have been sucessful. So, I will try your Plan B with the wire exchanges. I will also make sure my connections are accurate in the first place. Never assume anything...you're right! I have a VERY strong feeling the problem rests with the controller as the switch is brand new, out of the package, and the controller was installed last year. Hard to explain, but I added a turnout to my original layout from last year and have moved some things around. Hopefully, you have saved my sanity on this. Mark
The "never assume anything" is the voice of experience. Any time I've done that, I wasted a lot of time trying to find something that was right under my nose and "assumed" was good. Remember the old joke about where the word "assume" comes from.
You can pick up a decent multimeter pretty cheap these days, and it will be a great help when it comes time to troubleshoot things on your layout (notice I didn't say "if"). I've had failures in brand new controls and machines, as well as wire, so I never assume anything. They can easily fail from the package, after a few weeks, or may work reliably for years. Wire can easily be damaged during installation It's best to keep a mental picture of the circuit, which makes it easy to think through the troubleshooting. Of course, I was trained as an Electronics Technician in the Air Force, so that's almost second nature for me.
If you want a quick way to check to see weather or not it's the switch or controller as you call it. Take a piece of wire maybe a few inches long and strip both ends. touch one of the end of the wire to the center brass screw and the other end of the wire to one of the other brass screws of the switch only for a second you should see the switch move in one direction repeat it touching the other screw.What your doing is bypassing the switch by jumping the two connections.
If the the turnout does not move then the turnout is no good. when I was a kid a zillion years a go I had a box that I would throw the bad switches in under the layout I had more bad ones then ones that worked at least 3 to 1. Do yourself a favor and either get momentary toggles (on)-off-(on) or those switches one of the other posters recommended You'll be happy that you did.
Allegheny2-6-6-6Do yourself a favor and either get momentary toggles (on)-off-(on) or those switches one of the other posters recommended You'll be happy that you did.
Yes, good advice. Just don't forget the reason many controls/switches fail when used with twin coil switch machines. The back emf from the coil when it is switched off can arc at the switch contacts, fusing them together or burning/oxidizing the contacts, ruining those contacts in the switch.
Using a Capacitor discharge unit is one way to avoid this. Using Ken Stapletons Electronic Turnlout Switch is another.