Has anyone converted a Roundhouse 2-8-0 (the old Harriman kits) to DCC? Any tips or pointers, as I am going to get into a couple here shortly, and I want to add a Bachmann Vanderbilt tender to these two.
I converted one a little while ago, The biggest problem is isolating the motor brushes from the frame. On the loco I had one of the brush had a nylon mounting in the motor frame, the other had a metal mounting in the motor frame. I ended up taking a nylon mounting from another motor so I could isolate the motor. Also the wiring for that brush needs a channel cut in the frame.
I did one back around the turn of the century (1999-2000).
Mine had a factory can motor, so isolation was easy.
I used a soundtrax LC decoder. My biggest problem was no room for speaker.
I ended up gluing the decoder in the top of the boiler, and not using the extra weight. It's plenty heavy without it. That let me put the speaker in the tender. There's not a lot of room in the PRR style tender because of the thick floor. I imagine there's even less in the Vandy.
After all that, poor pickup was an issue. It never ran as good as it did on DC (which was actually pretty good).
I was using an Atlas (Lenz) system at the time. After I got a PA, it ran a little better.
I did swap out the LC for an NCE D13SR (both JST) decoder, and that made an improvement as well.
I ended up tossing the MDC drivetrain, and modifying a BLI 2-8-2 frame for the MDC boiler.
That worked so well I'm starting another one.
I also noticed the MDC chassis liked to climb the rail going backwards through Atlas #4 snaps.
That was the tipping point that led to the BLI chassis swap.
Not to discourage you, as it can be done, and I think you might get better results with today's decoders.
You didn't say if you were going with sound or if it was OFM or can motor.
Good luck.
I am going to go with sound. I have three tenders to butcher, but I am preplanning for the install and conversion, so I don't wipe out all three.
I noticed that the motor (the old one) is held to the chassis by a screw or two through the frame. Could the motor be isolated simply by using electrical tape and a nylon screw to hold the motor? Or is does a nylon screw not have the strength needed to hold the motor properly? Anything but changing brush mounts.
Also, if I place the decoder in the tender, and "cable" the wires with shrink tubing from tender to engine, I a presuming that there is sufficient room to run wiring for the front headlight. Another set would be for the indicators and class lights. I would likely use fiber optics for this, since I am familiar with that kind of installation, and it is less restrictive on the placement of the LED or bulb.
As to the sound conversion, a sub-button speaker would fit, but the air holes are an issue. The only place I can see to place them where they would be unobstrusive would be on the tender's front wall, near the toolbox and deck plate. The problem is that the sound is directed into the locomotive cab, and I am not sure what kind of quality I would get.
You MAY be able to use a nylon screw and tape to isolate the motor. The issue is now the meshing of the gears and a little looseness or sloppiness is the gears. Try it before you do any other work and run the loco on DC and see how it works. Wiring for the front light is not a problem, though you might have to do a little surgery to fit an LED. I used a very small bulb, I don't remember the voltage.
I didn't put sound in that loco. But I have put a speaker in another loco which has the sound exiting the front of the tender towards the loco and it sounds OK to me
mikebo You MAY be able to use a nylon screw and tape to isolate the motor. The issue is now the meshing of the gears and a little looseness or sloppiness is the gears. Try it before you do any other work and run the loco on DC and see how it works. Wiring for the front light is not a problem, though you might have to do a little surgery to fit an LED. I used a very small bulb, I don't remember the voltage. I didn't put sound in that loco. But I have put a speaker in another loco which has the sound exiting the front of the tender towards the loco and it sounds OK to me
Sweet. I just found some insulated screws that my Dad used to use when he was at Lockheed. I'll see if on of them fits. I can also paint the frame with an insulating paint, again, used in the electronics industry. The big thing is, as you mentioned, not to disturb the gear mesh too much, if at all.
I'll see about the lights. I can see where a grain of rice lamp will actually fit into a Cal Scale SP style headlight casting.
I'll take your word for it and try the forward sound, since, really it is the only option for me.
Thanks to all for the help.
I'll let everyone know how it works.