I was told you can tap into the main power buss for lighting structures etc. on your layout is this true or is it advisable to run a completely seperate buss for such a purpose?
Allegheny2-6-6-6 I was told you can tap into the main power buss for lighting structures etc. on your layout is this true or is it advisable to run a completely seperate buss for such a purpose?
I have a separate bus for structure lighting. I use 7 conductor thermostat wire (18ga) so that I can have 3 buses (you only need 6 wires or could use the 7th for another on/off section) that have fixed voltage for control panels, 12V on/off for outside building lighting (including street lights) and 0-12V for interior building lighting. I went an extra step and designed my own DCC controller unit where I can control the on/off and variable voltage from my throttle.
Engineer Jeff NS Nut Visit my layout at: http://www.thebinks.com/trains/
It's possible, but you're draining away power that your track needs. It's best to use a separarte power supply and power buss for building lights, streetlights, etc. A computer power supply is ideal for this -- 12 Volts and 5 Volts regulated DC output.
While you can, should you?
I don't. I have a completely separate buss for the turnout power and structure lighting. Any power you siphon off the track buss for non-train uses, reduces the power available to the trains. There is also the possibility for corrupting the DCC signal.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
I agree fully. It can be done, and perhaps should be done. It depends on the load you intend to draw...or more realistically, the 'eventual' load. We all start light and small in the hobby when we do things, but then we want to add just a wee bit more. Five wee bits later, you have a distinct problem.
Why not power them with a DC wall-wart or an unused DC controller while you are still building? Keep the DCC signal and available amperage full, clear, and high for the sake of good quality running, and draw from a separate source for the accessories.
-Crandell
That was my gewneral gut reaction that it's something that one should not do but rather run a completely seperate power supply. I have a box full of good DC power supplies and might look into the computer power supply idea as I have one sitting right here in the work shop. I was told by someone who supposedly knows a lot about dcc that this can be done. Can and should being the operitive words. I do have to find lower voltage for inside lighting as the acc. terminal on most of the DC power supplies put out some where around 16volts if I am not mistaken too high for lighting if I am not mistaken so a few more wires under the bench work is no big deal.
Your DCC busses can support lighting, but that's rather like using Perrier Water to wash potatoes. IMHO the only lights that should be connected to the propulsion power are those installed in rolling stock.
On my railroad, I use a bunch of small toy train power supplies to power structure lights and other fixed objects. Two other possibilities are wall warts (left over from dead rechargeable tools and such) and filament transformers. The filament transformers will require connecting up a 120vac house current feeder, so should probably be limited to people who are comfortable with such wiring.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
If you are just starting into lighting consider going with all LED's as a way to keep both heat and power consumption down from the get-go. If you go with LED's by all means you can tap into the main bus anywhere with suitcase connectors, or for ease in trouble shooting use a terminal strip. John
johncolley If you are just starting into lighting consider going with all LED's as a way to keep both heat and power consumption down from the get-go. If you go with LED's by all means you can tap into the main bus anywhere with suitcase connectors, or for ease in trouble shooting use a terminal strip. John
Just be careful which color LEDs you use. Pure white will make the lighting look fluorescent, which may be fine for office buildings but look strange for homes.
I just put some lighting in my gravel plant module and used a TCS FL4 lighting decoder to control them. There are 2 LEDs and 3 18 volt bulbs. With all the lights lit up the current draw is .02 amp. I wired in a couple of lights for the scale track for the crews to work at night safely. That draws less than .01 amp. Hardly noticed on a 2 amp Power Cab or the clubs 10 amp Lenz system. If you are putting in just a few bulbs or LEDs than the buss will do fine. Just remember they will always be on unless you put a switch in. If you are doing a whole town or city than a separate power supply is in order.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!