Do I wire my track for DCC the same way I would for DC (i.e. gaps between facing turnouts and blocks)? I am building a point-to-point layout in HO scale 12x14 feet shelf. Thanks for your knowledgeable input in advance.
Mike
That depends on the brand of turnouts you're going to use. Atlas normally will require no gapping except in the case of a turn-around loop or Y. Peco and Shinohara may still require gaps, depending on the track code; i.e., code 100, yes; code 83, no; and whether you're using Peco Insulfrog or Electrofrog, or are going to build your own turnouts.
The safest course of action is to use gaps the same as for DC. You've left too many questions still unanswered.
Yes. Blocks aren't really needed, but being able to isolate a section for troubleshooting is a good way to go.
The principles remain the same. One wire of each polarity to one rail. The other wire to the other rail. DCC polarity is actually called phase but the principle is the same. Connect the two together without a suitable resistance between and you get a short circuit.
m sharp Do I wire my track for DCC the same way I would for DC?
Do I wire my track for DCC the same way I would for DC?
Yes!
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
I'm using Code 83 and code 70 Walthers, Shinohara and Micro Engineering turnouts on the "sceniced" portion of the layout and code 100 Atlas turnouts in the staging area.
So, it sounds like I should cut gaps between facing turnouts on my code 83 and 70 section, right?
You cant go wrong with these sites.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm
Valuable info for everyone.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
The link to wiringfordcc.com is more than just switches. Gartner has an omnibus of DCC information that is worth reading if starting out.
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
Alright, thanks for the info/links.
locoi1sa Mike You cant go wrong with these sites.http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htmhttp://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm Valuable info for everyone. Pete
Pete, thanks for posting those links. I'm downloading and saving the page on wiring turnouts.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Your welcome.
Thats why this forum is here.
I am currently building a layout and I have absolutely no gaps, so I would have to say no you do not need to put gaps in anywhere.
Andy
I beg to differ with you. Some types of turnouts when facing each other will cause a reverse loop and shorts. I once layed out some track and turnouts and recieved a short and when looking over the plan I noticed an offset kind of wye I did not notice before. Another is Peco electrofrog turnouts if not properly gapped will short all the time.
A short is a short. It matters not whether it's DC or DCC. The question the OP asked was if he had to wire anything differently for DCC, and the answer is "no".
... Well actually he asked if he could wire it the same as for DC, in which case the answer is "yes".
Short circuits are short circuits in DC and DCC. You need to gap reverse loops and wyes the same in both systems. This is probably moot, if yourHO shelf layout is only 12 inches wide. You need 36 inches to do either a reverse loop or a wye. =You also have to keep the polarity straight. If you cross north rail to south rail that's a short.
I don't gap turnouts, and I don't trust the power routing turnouts. The power routing depends upon the points making electrical contact and plenty of points throw hard enough to let the train thru but not hard enough to make good electrical contact. I always hard wire juice to both ends of turnouts.
Blocks on DCC are only needed for trouble shooting. A 12" x 14' shelf layout is small enough that I might omit blocking on it.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Thanks all. All your information has helped...now I can start "gapping" and wiring.